"T"ools of the "T"rade

 I wanted to pass along some of my favorite tools and tips acquired over the several years of T-scale modeling.  Hopefully you will find this of use in producing high-quality models with as little frustration as possible.  One note: I don't endorse any particular brands, unless noted. 

Ultrasonic Cleaner:  Since most of my models are 3D printed, and the printing process at my preferred service bureau (Shapeways) leaves a waxy residue, all models must be thoroughly cleaned before assembly and painting.  Shapeways does clean the models, but invariably there is still some gunk on them when they arrive.  Some modelers use the solvent Bestine to further clean models, but I don't really need this, preferring not to stink up the house or dip my mits into toxic fluids -- Instead I utilize an ultrasonic cleaner with a warm bath of water with a drop of dish-washing detergent.  The cheap ultrasonic cleaner I have, I found used on Ebay for $20, and is the kind used for jewelry.  No need to go high-end here.  I give models a couple cycles in warm soapy water, once in warm clean water, then a nice rinse-- over a bowl stretched with old panty-hose to catch any parts that might fall off.

Micro Fiberglass Brush Tool:   After I clean a model, I will usually give it a coat of primer--and then inspect the surface for more gunk that may not have come off, or just layering/artifacts from 3D printing.  There is typically a bit of clean-up and sanding needed, and the micro fiberglass "pen" is really great for cleaning and abrading small surfaces and getting into tight areas.  One word of caution--these tools shed fiberglass fibers, so wear a mask and keep a vacuum close-by to get rid of the nasty little hairs.  I'm sure breathing them in isn't good for anyone.

Microbrushes:  These are useful for many things; odd paint jobs, cleaning airbrushes, applying decal solvent..  Beware:  Some of the cheaper brands use an adhesive to adhere the bristles that is susceptible to solvents--this can be a problem if you use with lacquer paints or other solvent-based paints or coatings;  I use acrylic almost exclusively so don't worry about it much, but still prefer the "original" microbrush if you can find them.

Disposable Pipettes:  Mainly for use in painting and mixing for the airbrush--get your ratio of thinner to paint accurate.  Get a big bag for a few dollars, they will last for a long time.  Also useful for micro-basting chicken breasts in the pot.

Etch Bending Jig:  Photoetched brass or steel parts (PE) can be a bit of a pain to get looking correct if you don't use one of these to bend them.  They help keep bends straight/square and even along long surfaces.  I wouldn't even try doing the hopper ends without one of them!  You can also use them to flatten out a piece that has gotten bent, press-style.  This is a small one made in China I found on Ebay, good enough for T-scale;  You may want a bigger one if you model in other scales as well.

While we're talking about PE, definitely get a pair of PE snippers like these by Xuron.  They allow you to trim PE close to the details.  Another tip is to use the steel base of the bending jig as a solid surface upon which to precisely trim PE with a hobby knife (expect the blade to get dulled quickly however).  Trimming on the solid surface will keep the PE from getting deformed. 

Toothpicks: Ahhh yes, the toothpick is indispensable!  Use them for moving decals around, for holding models for handling (as pictured), for making coupler pics, for applying glues, martinis, and a million other uses.  Get a big box for a buck a your local grocery store.

 

In other news:  I'm due for an update on new models and projects and will be posting that in the near future.  Many exciting projects from rolling stock to structures, too many to mention here.  In the meantime, I hope all my fellow T-scale enthusiasts have a great and safe holiday, and let's hope Santa or a Festivus pal leaves you a 1:450 train under the tree!    - Jesse

 

 

Long Time Comin' / Long Time Gone

It's been a busy couple of months and I have been remiss in my Blog posting.. my apologies.  By means of explanation, I was occupied with some exciting new developments in the CCE Models business as well as the on-going T-gauge model design and build activities.  

 

CCE Models Business Improvements:

CCE Models now has an official website with full e-commerce capability!  The old way where I was selling from an "item list" posted on Facebook, with emails traded, etc. was really cumbersome both for the customer and myself.  Along with that, I changed a major part of CCE Models' sales strategy.   Now, instead of selling 3D printed models, we sell the design itself--more specifically, a license to use the STL design file which you download and use to print your own models.  It save a TON of back-and-forth between the customer, myself and Shapeways (my preferred service bureau).  It also allows the customer to make unlimited prints of the design.  And you can print from your own printer if you have one, although the designs are optimized for Shapeways.  So if you want 20 boxcars you buy one design and print as many as you like (as long as they are for your own use of course.)  Break a coupler?  Just cut off the coupler design and print some of them.

CCE Models still sells actual products too, and the range has been expanded to include photoetched (PE) detail kits and decals.  I do keep most of these products on hand as well, so there are few delays compared to the old system.

I opened the site about a month ago and have not aggressively marketed it, but then again, the market is pretty small anyway.  But here's a bonus for the readers of the blog--a coupon code good for 10% off an order of $25 or more:  TBLOGREADER   Coupon is good from 11/6/20 for the next 30 days! 

 

New Designs: 

It's been so long since I posted here that I can't remember what the last new design  I posted here was... but here's what's new by way of explanatory pictures.

    1:300 scale (Mn3) D&RGW Long Caboose.  This comes in two versions--one with a peaked roof, and one with a rounded roof.  It also has an interior, complete with pot-bellied stove!  Also the Long Reefer was updated.  This model can conceal a powered chassis.   Both have decals sets available.  And remember, TGauge.com sells flextrack that is perfect for narrow gauge, and CCE Models makes the turnouts (one way dummy turnouts).

 

 

    1:450 scale (T scale) 50' Combination door boxcar.   This is also large enough to house a powered chassis.   Decal sets for CN and WM (shown) are available.

 

 

    ATSF Warbonnet decals for the C40-8W in T-scale:

 

 

     PC/Conrail X67 hi-cube boxcar in T-scale, along with PC and Conrail decals.

SLSF (Frisco)--BN specific version GP40-2 (and two CN specific locomotives) are now available.  These were made because of customer requests/commissions, but now everyone can get one.

 

Other work going on:

--Prototyping of Bombardier gallery cars.  These are almost ready, expect on the site any day--see below.

--Improving the internal bearing trucks (used on Amfleet cars, Budd gallery cars, and Bombardier gallery cars.)  These had a couple of issues;  the outside diameter was awkwardly large to the eye (the wheels on the prototype are smallish, at 33").  The new design improves this somewhat although still not 33" to scale;  Also the models were having issues with the axles being printed "stuck"--ie not consistently free rolling.  The latest design addresses these issues.  

--Etched railing kits for the big covered hopper cars (3-bay, and 4-bay) and NE Caboose.  I did one test and it was too fragile to be practical;  Design revised and new test on the way.  Once I get these dialed in I will expand to the other hoppers.

--An ASEA/EMD AEM-7.  The design is almost done.  It will have PE pantographs and can be powered by a 34mm chassis.  Decals are also planned.

 

--Northeast Corridor station (Princeton Jct.).  These are prototyped and include platform, shelter, and station buildings.  These are intended for my Princeton module which is getting closer to fruition. 

On the drawing board:

--Another hi-cube boxcar (customer request), autorack, and loaded bulkhead flatcar. 

Other models/items of interest:

--I did a set of Conrail H45 covered hopper decals in T, N and HO scale together with some of the fine folks at the Conrail Historical Society.  I will be adding the T-scale set to the website and the other scales may soon be available through the Conrail Historical Society "Conrail Shoppe".  If you're interested in these, let me (or them) know.  Incidentally, I highly recommend joining this non-profit group if you are a Conrail fan or modeler.  They curate tons of great information and make it available thruogh their website, publications, and meetings.  They also restore historic Conrail equipment that would otherwise be scrapped--such as an X67 boxcar like the one I recently modeled.

--I'm working on a commissioned custom painted AWVR AC4400CW.  HO Scale (it's mazzive!)

That's it for now and thanks for reading!  I'll endeavor to get back on a monthly schedule.  As always, if you have any questions feel free to reach out to me at ccetrains@gmail.com, or fill out a contact form at the CCE Models website.

Power to the People (and Passenger and Freight Cars)

With apologies to John Lennon, this post will show you how I get power "right on" to various rolling stock.  This trick is used to push (or pull) non-poweredT-gauge locomotives.  It's also true in T gauge that there's no such thing as too much power for a train so your passenger cars can be powered even if the locomotive is. This trick is also useful to achieve prototypical truck spacing for some 3D printed cab locomotives or DMU's where the stock mechanism is not correct.  

I've used this technique in the Budd gallery cars (cab and coach), the 40' D&RGW long reefer, as well as in the MP36 locomotive and RDC DMU's.  Several CCE Models are set up specifically for this (as shown below), but the modeler can kitbash using the same principles. 

The idea is pretty simple:  The un-powered end on a TGauge powered chassis is connected by a short horizontal frame to the motor end.  The chassis segment can be cut/discarded, and the un-powered end placed as needed to achieve the desired truck spacing.  Power pickup via the unpowered end can be maintained either through direct contact with the severed contact strips, or by direct wiring.

Here's a 21m chassis, showing where the cuts are made:

 

After the cuts are made (I just use a rail nipper both for the acetyl plastic and the steel contacts), bend the contacts on the motor end over.  Try to cut the contacts so there's enough room to give it a "curl" at the end--although this isn't really necessary.   If you're shortening the truck spacing, the contacts from the unpowered end can be arranged to sit in the top of the shell in alignment with the motor-end contacts, and maintain continuity.  At least they should..  I have also soldered magnet wire between the contacts to ensure a connection and maintain pickup.  

Here's another view of the cuts and the bent motor-end contacts.  You can see, I was not going for precision..it will be hidden anyway.

Here's an example with contact wires soldered on joining the unpowered and motor end:

Some CCE Models' shells like this Budd Gallery Car have tabs molded into them to retain the chassis segments:

 

That's it!  

Thanks for reading and best regards until next time.  - J

There Ain't No Cure for the Summertime T-oos

Please excuse the title, I was just listening to some tunes 😁  Here's the latest and greatest on several projects that are coming together.

D&RGW K-36:  Completed the test model, I think the appearance is good!  This one is (sadly) destined to be a garage queen because although it rolls on the leading and trailing trucks, it is not powered.  That being said, the running gear is "phase 1" towards an actual working mechanism.  It did function (main rod, side rod, and cross-head) when test-fit, but I ended up putting a dab of glue on the etched rods to hold them in place.  I have some of the TGauge.com micro rivets, but didn't attempt to rivet them since the drivers aren't set up for it.  Much was learned from the exercise anyway, which will be applied to future mechanisms. For example, drivers will be geared together to ensure synchronization, and will take the aforementioned micro-rivets to hold the etched stainless steel rods (the test model's were brass and too fragile).  Driver construction will be an issue--I'd like to get them turned, but I may try to adapt the T-gauge style of magnetic tires to a 3D printed driver..  Other than that--the locomotive has etched details such as piping, cab windows (need to open them next time), handrails (boiler and tender) and I designed the decals.  I used clear decal film for the windows btw, but forgot to do the doghouse windows before the pics.  On the rear view you can see the etched brass harp-style switch stand.  Not positive if these were used on the D&RGW (I think on the RGS they were..?)  I'm still learning a lot but thought it was an interesting appliance none-the-less.

 Note the "harp" style switch stand on the display.  This is an etched brass kit.  It's small but easy to assemble (just fold up the sides, and the mast can be press-fit.  I painted the masthead/indicator white, then added a scrap of red decal with a bunch of setting solution to get it to settle around the part.  It fits nicely with the narrow-gauge style dummy turnout.

D&RGW 40' refrigerated boxcar, aka "long reefer" is being printed right now, which will be able to house a  mechanisim so there's hope of running (pushing) the K-36 yet.

50 foot tank car:  The prototype tank car model was received and assembled and it turned out nicely.  This is a very common type, based on the DOT-111 style car.  This is available as a kit, along with a set of decals designed for the tank car (the decal set can do several models.)

Class 66:  A modeler reached out regarding the Class 66, a UK/EU prototype.  This model was one of the earlier ones I had in the CCE Models' lineup, so I did a revision to bring the details up to par.  I also included options for modeling it as a dummy with full HTC-R bogies, or just using the HTC-R sideframes to install over sanded down sideframes on a powered mechanism.   To top it off, I have a set of decals designed for the model in multiple paint schemes. 

Low-resolution screen shot

Misc:  

• Etched end handrail/ladder sets for the 2-bay and 3-bay ACF hoppers were made, I'm working on the test/proof models currently.  Should have them in the next update.
• Concept is down, design work is planned for a powered mechanism/chassis that will be thin enough to power a hood-style US diesel such as the GP40, GP9, RS11, etc.

June T(scale)eenth

As we celebrate the Juneteenth Holiday here in the USA, I am also celebrating some new modeling developments.  Here's a run-down of what I've been working on at CCE Models over the past few weeks...

K-36:  I received what seems to me to be the "final" body shell for the K-36, which has fine detail but more rugged construction and some other improvements. Note the headlight, number boards, piping and even a whistle.  Drivers are 3D printed, but leading/trailing and tender wheelsets are all T-gauge standard wheelsets.  It's primed, but waiting on the etched detail set to arrive before it can be finished (cosmetically).  The etched detail set includes rods, handrails, ladders, window frames, visors, and some other stuff.  So this will make at very nice display or free-rolling dummy model.  The challenge now becomes "can it be powered".  I think so...eventually.  I will have to keep the pencil sharpened and engineer a drive for it over the next year or so.

Ford F-7000 MOW Truck:  I completed this design in both T and Z scale.  It came out better than expected actually.  It's a kit with cab, dump bed, frame, and crane as the major components.  There are also decals (for Penn Central) that are being printed for this model as well.  It's planned to reside on the Sharonville Engine Facility diorama.

t

Trees:  I think that I shall never see, a thing as lovely as a T-scale tree..  Thinking ahead I am realizing I will need numerous trees for various dioramas so I wanted to practice up on how to make a decent-looking T tree.  Some time back I bought a large bag of the cheap model trees that are made in China (simple twisted wire and foam) with the idea I'd use them at some point.  They are about 2-3 cm high and come in a fairly garish bright green, so the first thing I did was paint the foliage using a couple rattle cans of flat green (NATO green and a slighty lighter color) to tone down the foam. Then I used cheap brown acrylic craft paint to coat the trunk again, then used some brown and black pencils to give it a little texture. Then I did two different finishes to the foliage.  First I dusted some white chalks from above to lighten the upper surfaces, then sifted "yellow grass" ground foam turf (Woodland Scenics) to simulate new growth and leaves with the light brightening them.   I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and will be thinking about how to do fir trees and sagebrush for the Rio Grande dioramas/modules.

The Larch

Decalmania!:  I spent a great deal of time this month working on vector graphics for decals.. some of the subjects include CN diesels, VIA diesels and passenger cars, PC diesels and cabooses, PRR and Amtrak GG1's, L&N diesels, TTI u-boats, and GATX tank cars.. 

PRR and Amtrak GG1 set

What's coming... expecting a series of etched frets with details for various models (both new and old) and some lineside details such as this Calvert switch stand in 1:300 scale.

Photo by J. Ehernberger

Until next time,
Jesse

May Modeling

Here it is, close to the end of May already!  Where does the time go?  At least with pandemic "Shelter in Place" orders us modelers have something good to do, and I hope you've found this time productive.  I know I have!  Here are a few updates on some old-- and new-- projects.

D&RGW K-36:  The K-36 Mikado project continues.  This has been a fantastic learning experience for me.  Not only is it in a new scale (1:300 although it uses T-gauge track) it's my first steam locomotive.  Steam locos have so many details compared to diesels, so I have had to learn more about them in general, the whys and wherefores of the various piping and fittings, air compressors, crossheads, drive and connecting rods, etc., but also enhanced my techniques to be able to produce a good model.  For example, the K-36 will have several add-on etched parts.  It also needed accurate decals (along with the 30' boxcar), none of which are available and are in white-which cannot be printed on an inkjet at home.  So I've "upped my game" in several areas.  I have taught myself Inkscape in order to better draft etch and decal artwork for a custom printer. 

As of 5/26 the second iteration of prototypes has been received and further refinements to the model design have been done.  Here's the latest version sans cab (a victim of my "constructive destruction" process to identify weak spots).  It's also missing stirrup steps on the tender, back up light, number boards, and some piping all for the same reason.  No worries, these areas have been addressed along with some other refinements. 

 

I also made a video to demonstrate the free-rolling nature of the drivers.  These are 3D printed acrylic, however I also have brass versions coming.  It will be interesting to see how they compare, but the 3D versions are actually acceptable to me (surprisingly). 

As a side note, the 1:300 scale 30' D&RGW boxcar final version was test assembled and custom designed decals (from CCE Models) are applied.   My only "beef" is that I used 0.15mm wire for the truss rods.. I need to find some finer material because they are a little too beefy.  Again, a set of custom decals was made for this, and will be included in the kit from CCE Models.

Metra Gallery Cars:  I completed a test model of the Metra (ex CB&Q) Budd gallery cab car.  This is a powered model and will go with the MP36 model that is not yet decorated (soon..!)  Window glass is accomplished using my clear decal film technique.  There is also a coach version (does not have the engineer's window and horn).

 
GP40-2W:  As mentioned in a previous post, a fellow modeler who is working on a Canadian prototype layout requested some rolling stock appropriate for his needs.  I designed a GP40-2W (based upon the existing GP40-2 model) and it's now available.  Also, I designed some "tiger stripe" Canadian National decals in order for it to be accurately decorated.

 

CN-Via CO7/8 Coach:  The aforementioned modeler also requested a very common coach found around Toronto, and being intrigued by the challenge I obliged.   The model comes with a rudimentary interior.  On the list is a set of appropriate decals for VIA and CN.

 

DOT-111 Tank Car:  Tank cars being so common I have wanted to model one in T for some time, however until I got into the etching of parts for the K-36 it sat on the back burner.  Here is an earlier design--the current is somewhat modified from this--that illustrates what is nearing completion.  The prototype is loosely based on those made by Greenbriar (but very similar to others) with a capacity of 29,000 gallons.  The etch kit will come with optional end shields which are applied as required for transport of crude oil.

Other Odds-and-Ends.. Sharonville diorama received a little work, but has been somewhat neglected due to all the design work and rolling stock work.  I did some tests of "snow scenes" and found that deep snow can be effectively modeled in T using common spackling paste--painted with matte white after it dried and received a light sanding.  Very light snow "a dusting" can be achieved with a light spray of white primer (I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer).  You can see the deep snow effect in the D&RGW boxcar picture above, or here just after painting:

Whew, reading over this I'm going to be challenged to keep up the pace.  But it's all good fun!  Until next time-- Jesse

A T-Gauge Public Service Message: Replacing Tension Springs

(Note: I will provide a post on the many projects underway at a later date).

You aren't a real "T-Gauger" until you've shot one (or several) of the tiny bogie tension springs into the cavernous void while trying to replace them.  Well, here's the technique I use to facilitate re-attaching them.

Of course re-attachment assumes you have either a.) gotten down on your hands and knees and searched the expanse for the little buggers, and by some miracle found it,  b.) gave up and then weeks later found it sitting among several paint jars along with dust, spilled ballast rocks, and dead flies, or c.) broke down and bought the replacements, which are packaged in excruciatingly small quantities-- giving rise to further anxiety over then losing these and having to order more.

Step 1:  Locate the spring (see above)

Step 2:  Thread a bit of wire--a pliable strand from some typical wire is good--through the coils of the spring, not through the round ends.

Step 3:  Create a loop with the wire, and add a bit of tape so you can see it and add some weight.  It's also useful to help hold it.

Step 4:  Install the spring on the chassis, securing both ends.  To do this, you'll want some tweezers to aid the process.  Don't panic--you won't be able to shoot the spring across the room anymore or if you do, you'll be able to see it.  The wire loop stays inside the spring.

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Step 5:  Cut the wire with some snips and remove.

And there ya go.

April Fooling Around

I hope that all of my readers are safe and well during the pandemic.   I'm hunkered down and doing quite a bit of design and modeling.  Here's what's new:

Sharonville Engine House Diorama:
The engine house is installed on the base, ballast laid, and basic weathering done.  I used trusty DAS modeling clay to set the engine house and turntable pit into the base. 

 

I used a blend of fine grout for the ballast, with liberal application of chalk powders (light gray, white, brown) to blend it. 

 

The turntable has been painted and test installed--looks rather "new" as it is not weathered yet.  

Windows were installed on the engine house using MicroScale Krystal Klear.  I need to paint over a bunch of the panes as the prototype has about 20% broken out/replaced with wood.  The doors (open ones) had to be sanded down to thin them a little.  So far, I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out.

Moving from the model to the prototype, here's a picture I took in Sharonville in the late 90's after the engine house was razed.  The building would've been on the left-hand side of the picture where the shed is.   Turntable is still there, on the left, but just outside of the picture.  There's still a nice assortment of Conrail (and early CSX) locomotives on the pad. 

1:300 Narrow Gauge Project:
Several items are in process right now. 

The K-36 is progressing, I had a test model made of the locomotive to test my assembly concept (frame attaching to boiler) and also how much detail could be printed on the model. 

I got some answers--some of the finest detail didn't make it, but nothing I can't work around.  For example, the number boards and bits of the air compressor didn't make it, but the headlight did (although I later broke it off in cleaning).  This is how the process goes and I'll revise the model to take it into account this either by simply omitting the part, beefing it up, or making them as add-on parts. 

My biggest dilemma now is how to get the counterweights and rods animated.. I'm not sure it's going to be possible on the first "real" version.  The tender is almost completed as well.  Here's how it looks on the rails, next to the first iteration of the 30' boxcar:

 And a rendering with the tender.

I also designed a #8 dummy turnout base to go with the TGauge.com "Wider Sleeper Flexitrack"  which is the 1:300 3-foot gauge track.  It's a dummy because the mechanism would be too complicated for now, and I just wanted something to visually approximate a turnout on a "roundy round" type layout.  In theory, I could do nearly any type of turnout-- wye, three-way, etc. in the same way.  "One of these days" I'll think about making a working one.. when the mechanisms catch up. 

Here's how it looks before rail is installed:

    Next comes the rail:

And with paint:

Other Stuff:
A T-scaler out of Canada requested some Canadian prototype equipment.  Some may need to be done from scratch, but he mentioned the GP40-2W.. since I already have a GP40-2 I thought, okie dokie!  Here's the rendering, and next time I should have a first iteration model to show ya. 

Until next time, stay safe and stay healthy!
-Jesse

March Madness

Sadly, we would typically be watching basketball this time of year, but for now the madness is confined to panic-buying of toilet paper at the grocery store.  Keep calm and carry on, eh?  I find myself recommending to others they try scale modeling (whether railroads or other such as plastic aircrafts kits, etc.) to pass the time at home.

As for myself, I have several projects in the works.

First and foremost is the exploration of narrow gauge using T-gauge track.  Last time I mentioned a custom 2-foot gauge Z scale dump car based on the Gilpin Tramway.  Here is the finished model:

It rolls on T gauge "pin point wheelsets" from TGauge.com.  The brake wheels are 3D printed, but the staff is 0.15mm brass wire.  Couplers are true link-and-pin, they would have a loop of wire used and these cars would need to be semi-permanently coupled in sets (3 or 4 I'd think).

What's even cooler--I received a shipment of the "wider sleeper" version of the TGauge.com flextrack.  Here's how it looks before (from the box) and after (installed with ballast and painting).  Very reasonable looking, and I'm planning on making some dummy turnouts to work with this track soon.

This lead to the discussions of 1:300 scale 3-foot gauge (a much more common narrow gauge) such as the former D&RGW lines and current Durango & Silverton and Cumbres & Toltec Scenic RR.

As a proof of concept of the 3-foot gauge on T track, I designed, test printed and built a 30' D&RGW boxcar.  I now have the final revised version of the model printed, and on deck waiting to be built/painted, but here's the test model with piece-by-piece assembled decals...

The finished model has brake wheels, truss rod underframe (there is a bending jig attached to the base of the kit to properly bend wire).  And based on my experience with the test model's decals--it will need custom decals because piecing together letters was wayyyy to fiddly;   I don't have the logo or really a good rendition of the dimensional data either.  But the proof of concept worked--I'm moving forward with some modeling in 3-foot gauge.

So, the custom decal set will also include decals for a K-36.  Yes a D&RGW narrow gauge Mikado is in the works.  Design work is well on the way--see below.  I am hoping to make it a powered version.. but that may take more time. 

This kit will also include a bending jig to add stand-alone wire piping to the model, which will go a long way to making it look accurate.  This is really another proof-of-concept since I haven't done this before.

Lest you think I've gone 100% off the narrow gauge cliff, I'm still working on the Sharonville diorama (currently having ballast and ground cover added), and adding some pieces of rolling stock.   I did a custom-painted C&O F7A for a client.  Here it is almost finished, the final model has a yellow pilot--I just forgot to get the picture (duoh!). 

Well, enjoy your "social distancing" time at the workbench, and please stay safe and healthy out there! Hopefully we are back to (semi) normal by summer. 

Until next time,
Jesse