tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1784568378419720192024-02-20T06:05:48.344-08:00Jesse's T-Scale ModelsNews and information about T Scale (1:450) model railroading and the designs made by CCE Models.Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.comBlogger86125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-40714817244239092272023-12-18T06:32:00.000-08:002023-12-18T09:20:55.765-08:00Fall-Winter 2023<p><b>In Shops Now... CCE Models Products</b></p><p>This fall I began supplying CCE brand kits and parts to two retailers: <a href="http://TGauge.com">TGauge.com</a> (with worldwide distribution) and <a href="https://fusionscalehobbies.com/" target="_blank">Fusion Scale Hobbies</a> in the USA. So far, this inventory is of CCE couplers, some passenger car kits (the Budd fluted-side Parlor Car and a CN smooth-side coach) plus the TrainMaster (N&W and some other versions). Check out these retailers and inquire about CCE products if you don't see stock. While you're at it--buy a few FP9s and 6-axle powered, and adjustable chassis to stock up. And the Pin-Point wheelsets.. buy a 20 or 100 pack as there are several freight cars and an F7B coming that will need them. Remember, if you want to see more new products in this new scale, the manufacturers need to see support. I purchased a couple Class 67s even though I don't model UK! They are still great models to own. <br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><b>Other developments: </b></p><p>As mentioned, the Budd fluted-side<b> parlor car</b> (PRR design), a CN lightweight <b>coach </b>and a
CN <b>baggage car</b> have all
been shipped to the shops noted above and fit the Adjustable Chassis. The CN cars closely resemble those of other roads if you aren't too picky. Just decorate them appropriately--the following may be helpful: <br /></p><p>A <b>decal set</b> is available for the passenger cars that has markings for multiple companies and can be used on any of the cars. Fusion and TGauge.com both should have these in stock. <br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBbGpjRKWQhSZvci3VOuFjEzfAwa973NZhxV3TJBszRiY9NrPm040TteIvJIJcLNpda7hRL7fJH2n7wew6Z8Ct43Px336VKuiwQiHnVSaPY9kN5UKkkFx2BseQaNjyB0V2b7jWuXLcO9pQk7-QiUiJEQGmd7IDIJl76btHdQXp2QrPsCRkaL7xM4eM5A/s1303/Passenger%20Cars%20Low%20Res.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="1303" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBbGpjRKWQhSZvci3VOuFjEzfAwa973NZhxV3TJBszRiY9NrPm040TteIvJIJcLNpda7hRL7fJH2n7wew6Z8Ct43Px336VKuiwQiHnVSaPY9kN5UKkkFx2BseQaNjyB0V2b7jWuXLcO9pQk7-QiUiJEQGmd7IDIJl76btHdQXp2QrPsCRkaL7xM4eM5A/w443-h212/Passenger%20Cars%20Low%20Res.png" width="443" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Several new road-specific versions of the <b>TrainMaster</b> have been made, including SP, Reading, Southern Railway, and Virginian, along with decals. I'll be sending a couple of each to the retailers. The <a href="https://fusionscalehobbies.com/products/cce-models-t-scale-1-450-fm-h24-66-train-master-shell-kit-n-w" target="_blank">N&W model</a> is in stock at Fusion currently and should be at TGauge.com as well.<br /></p><p><b>Hoppers old and new</b>: I designed a new <b>80-ton</b> open hopper and re-designed the <b>100-ton</b> open hopper to go along with the N&W Train Master. Here's the N&W 80-tonner showing the end bracing--all 3D printed and robust enough to not break very easily.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjfgku7K-j9TIZLtB13CiZtYaRilx-WZuUB2re7TZvZ4pscNORMDIMaxd2m4tOiBv4r7F20PWgUIWepKv-wCE05j5RY3mazfsISZJeCFhfiHE7KcskrmS1YZpCAiseaL2f_FHbDTtZzO9H_BnaZ9hFGCywgR9YY197m3-geLCS8y2EmCXdr7pMclKU_Co/s4032/2023-08-25%2008.42.52.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjfgku7K-j9TIZLtB13CiZtYaRilx-WZuUB2re7TZvZ4pscNORMDIMaxd2m4tOiBv4r7F20PWgUIWepKv-wCE05j5RY3mazfsISZJeCFhfiHE7KcskrmS1YZpCAiseaL2f_FHbDTtZzO9H_BnaZ9hFGCywgR9YY197m3-geLCS8y2EmCXdr7pMclKU_Co/w441-h331/2023-08-25%2008.42.52.jpg" width="441" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>I also did a refresh of the <b>ACF 4750 cu ft covered hopper</b> (a la PRR-Conrail H-45) so it's 100% 3D printed including end bracing and ladders. This saves the trouble of bending the etch which was quite difficult to get right. The details and contours were also improved. <br /></p><p><br /> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXa_wvtTOiMc61w-eRMOojXvjs8L49FVA8JrmfMhDdhJ5f3nLDDqLanrtPOeZeC7mmX31tcX0y2G_klxGHwZXY_1ODwUuDQtWrId6VxxGD5iJ9p-WQwW-gcrGHsAepsBGlTlifIsGCYOajIpRVyZP_mdhcSEyLXVwbS970ZtaqQlFU1aYUdAoExmebnOk/s3983/Test%20model%20pic.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2327" data-original-width="3983" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXa_wvtTOiMc61w-eRMOojXvjs8L49FVA8JrmfMhDdhJ5f3nLDDqLanrtPOeZeC7mmX31tcX0y2G_klxGHwZXY_1ODwUuDQtWrId6VxxGD5iJ9p-WQwW-gcrGHsAepsBGlTlifIsGCYOajIpRVyZP_mdhcSEyLXVwbS970ZtaqQlFU1aYUdAoExmebnOk/w551-h322/Test%20model%20pic.jpg" width="551" /></a></p><p> <b>WP&Y Layout Update:</b></p><p>The lake (Bernard Lake) has been poured! I used Woodland Scenics "murky water" with the lake bed painted with WS olive drab and tan shoreline, with a blend between the two done with airbrush.
Overall it was pretty easy and took two full pours (about 2 pints). The shoreline has
the usual surface tension thing that happens with these poured resin
waters... I may play around with some matte finish to mitigate the
leeching effect and build up the shore ground texture a bit near the
water. The background rock and foliage was airbrushed with some light
gray to blend it with the backdrop, which was printed by a friend in a continuous strip. Overall, I am satisfied with the effect
of looking across a wide lake with forced perspective. Now to finish
the foreground scenery adding some trees, etc. install the Fraser water
tank/station.. then run some trains! I need to paint up a pair of the
DL535Es...</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWEbrS1G7Mm1C38s9RXgjvOsU6SQ1ymrysF0CubWCgzHEApFyvJVWM2zt8NT-ovbUnTAjs7pShcvdursQU8gWV3aZ7M2qUoo_6VokTfnFym3lx7XgNPQ_cDy227tG90g0Kxt85oqJ1tEF6CcVrGnoO0X176asCb2oV7leel0G2nu-FjrGoMBYaVrPwG5o/s5712/2023-12-16%2009.38.00.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4284" data-original-width="5712" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWEbrS1G7Mm1C38s9RXgjvOsU6SQ1ymrysF0CubWCgzHEApFyvJVWM2zt8NT-ovbUnTAjs7pShcvdursQU8gWV3aZ7M2qUoo_6VokTfnFym3lx7XgNPQ_cDy227tG90g0Kxt85oqJ1tEF6CcVrGnoO0X176asCb2oV7leel0G2nu-FjrGoMBYaVrPwG5o/w545-h409/2023-12-16%2009.38.00.jpg" width="545" /></a></div><br /><p></p><b>This has been another year of tremendous growth for T gauge, and I think 2024 will be even better! I hope everyone has a great holiday season, and look forward to more modeling in the New Year.</b><br /><p> Until next time! </p><p> - <i>Jesse </i> (email any questions or requests to me at ccetrains "at" gmail)</p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0Cincinnati, OH, USA39.1031182 -84.512019610.792884363821152 -119.6682696 67.41335203617885 -49.3557696tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-34449099963658712092023-08-15T09:14:00.005-07:002023-08-15T09:16:34.183-07:00Late Summer '23 Update<p><b>In Shops Now... an RTR CN FP9!</b></p><p>The big news of the summer is the release of a North American prototype locomotive that is fully decorated and ready to run: an<a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/454/0/cn-emd-fp9-diesel-locomotive" target="_blank"> EMD FP9 in the classic Canadian National "tiger stripe" livery.</a> I worked with the manufacturer of T Gauge models in China to get this extremely accurate 1:450 scale model to market. It was quietly released in late July and is currently in stock at TGauge.com. </p><p>Here's a pic out of the box, albeit with a flush pilot insert w. CCE coupler.<br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOgzScA4pqQv4ABhB9lqVvUg4yR99vsG-DBQu39Rf8S7COZvmBESPd-C9zq_0hOLsTXavPzD4PRviG2hkjPBBUWVkXfObgRPtL1iRgVuXCdtYoB4l80PmbxURui8zDerPEYtpZZEMn5x6NFKs9M7lnEvtA_ItBs4JtgEnCBupgDW5fX38FplEmolGejGM/s4032/CN%20FP9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOgzScA4pqQv4ABhB9lqVvUg4yR99vsG-DBQu39Rf8S7COZvmBESPd-C9zq_0hOLsTXavPzD4PRviG2hkjPBBUWVkXfObgRPtL1iRgVuXCdtYoB4l80PmbxURui8zDerPEYtpZZEMn5x6NFKs9M7lnEvtA_ItBs4JtgEnCBupgDW5fX38FplEmolGejGM/s320/CN%20FP9.jpg" width="320" /></a></p><p>These are 3D printed and so are not quite as strong as an injection-molded body. This is important when doing any modifications as the shells can (and will) crack if squeezed or pushed too hard. I'm amazed at the painting and printing--colors are opaque, separations crisp, and the number boards are legible. <br /></p><p> I'm currently finalizing a super detail kit for the FP9 that will make it just a bit more accurate for us rivet-counters. It includes: <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Pilot insert with a CCE (or scale) coupler <br /></li><li>CCE couplers that plug into the standard coupler draft gear on the trucks</li><li>Fuel tank cover <br /></li><li>Blomberg truck sideframes <br /></li><li>Clear inserts for the windshield, cab windows and portholes. </li></ul>Given the size of the model, it goes without saying that these details take a bit of patience to add, but the end result is worth it. Here is the windshield insert being test-fit. Note it's secured with a tiny bead of Krystal Klear around the edges. The RTR FP9 model actually has a fairly thick layer of paint, therefore the fit of the windows has to be a little more relaxed. Ask me how I found this out, a couple broken shells later...<p style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWd-YR9MsuMlIHe9JNrC9UvAyTvzSWMNfCV8pfZxdkBqPj45N31LucnGNt-VGIM46zwzQXmiVAku4bDSTO-dWaMncT37Z0g9aTITQjuzc3h-2whDBOWYE9rpk24gRXaDvGax2-EdzM2YNg7CbiXN-AzvlRbjRjmb7vGcXhicuMQ88kHfvcoImd-5vO_Y8/s4032/2023-08-14%2014.05.52.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWd-YR9MsuMlIHe9JNrC9UvAyTvzSWMNfCV8pfZxdkBqPj45N31LucnGNt-VGIM46zwzQXmiVAku4bDSTO-dWaMncT37Z0g9aTITQjuzc3h-2whDBOWYE9rpk24gRXaDvGax2-EdzM2YNg7CbiXN-AzvlRbjRjmb7vGcXhicuMQ88kHfvcoImd-5vO_Y8/s320/2023-08-14%2014.05.52.jpg" width="320" /></a></p><p>Here are the cab windows and portholes installed. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisnQcLx2HGvNE1Htkw-tN4lfWfgzcXVqtVb4xOJK03mp2SL03895qdMEbJSCupdJIKetxR3FUpz8KhMSbUMANl_kTsY5Goc3ey3anPZK4Ag66SKFPqgqa2CH-LiHFgBCEgoBRx1yMIDCensUCoUgz1Qz9wyqzbNXmMCkF8X1-ukcSAMMNFR2QYpHocbYQ/s4032/2023-08-14%2014.05.33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisnQcLx2HGvNE1Htkw-tN4lfWfgzcXVqtVb4xOJK03mp2SL03895qdMEbJSCupdJIKetxR3FUpz8KhMSbUMANl_kTsY5Goc3ey3anPZK4Ag66SKFPqgqa2CH-LiHFgBCEgoBRx1yMIDCensUCoUgz1Qz9wyqzbNXmMCkF8X1-ukcSAMMNFR2QYpHocbYQ/s320/2023-08-14%2014.05.33.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p><b>Other developments: </b></p><p>In order to have something appropriate for the FP9 to pull, I've made getting some passenger cars to the TGauge shop a priority. I have a Budd fluted-side parlor car (PRR design), a CN lightweight coach and a CN baggage car that have all
been updated to accommodate the Adjustable Chassis.</p><p> I also have an F9B that can be used between two powered FP9's to make A-B-A or A-B-B-A lashups. And decals.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgulrnjH2vl5MLpWEEh9zsS7WxTkVZPZKLK0UfcqKioU4-kPM-XX_Yb5q7x2mzVa349GXted_ikxYdONvKYhlfjnSKq6a_uhMG_oYzAgs1essmFGrKfUJH7aU8CYkSwLqA8srqCrtXoz7r7YXVOL5v64PemJ5JAhBGy5_2s8q10Zc3LCigzg87NJjCsQ-k/s4032/2023-08-12%2009.04.24.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgulrnjH2vl5MLpWEEh9zsS7WxTkVZPZKLK0UfcqKioU4-kPM-XX_Yb5q7x2mzVa349GXted_ikxYdONvKYhlfjnSKq6a_uhMG_oYzAgs1essmFGrKfUJH7aU8CYkSwLqA8srqCrtXoz7r7YXVOL5v64PemJ5JAhBGy5_2s8q10Zc3LCigzg87NJjCsQ-k/s320/2023-08-12%2009.04.24.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />In addition, here's a Budd bi-level gallery car in SP colors along one of the H24-66 locomotives being developed. I have the decals for the SP Train Master and need to get to painting it. A nice layout of San Francisco commuter trains could be possible! <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXou2LHJ0JGN64amFj3ODQ8dVsJEjVAHjmi9I-3UfZ4Xxq8Nb6A1KMpNKhdBNgsaCucq2fdiuiwwyhqvCeSnZ9Azungl9UrRBtqcyGDHlGLwicByKXqqJwY7hRcXjk0UcWIKs7X6PTUAqNr_4fsuNecQFwofhu80FF7fQ4IEzsJSZjj3FrQmpEF2ZZRVQ/s4032/2023-04-28%2012.27.57.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXou2LHJ0JGN64amFj3ODQ8dVsJEjVAHjmi9I-3UfZ4Xxq8Nb6A1KMpNKhdBNgsaCucq2fdiuiwwyhqvCeSnZ9Azungl9UrRBtqcyGDHlGLwicByKXqqJwY7hRcXjk0UcWIKs7X6PTUAqNr_4fsuNecQFwofhu80FF7fQ4IEzsJSZjj3FrQmpEF2ZZRVQ/s320/2023-04-28%2012.27.57.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><b>3D Printing Developments: New Resins and Blends </b> <br /></p><p>The biggest project of the summer has been adapting to some new resin blends. 3D printed models using the standard Phrozen Aqua 8K resin are pretty tough, but could still use some additional strength. I read about a blend of Aqua 8K and Onyx Impact Plus resins, and after a bit of trial and error work I got the blend dialed in on my printer. It's now my standard as it's quite a bit stronger than the Aqua 8K by itself.</p><p>I was advised to try another resin--Sunlu ABS-Like resin--because it's supposed to be strong/flexible and takes good detail. As a bonus, it comes in clear. This opens up the possibility of doing locos in clear and masking off the windshields for a one-piece model. We'll see how it performs in tests.<br /></p><p>I also experimented with Voxelab transparent and Onyx Impact Plus to make a smoke-clear resin to use for windows. So far I am happy with the results. <br /></p><p></p><p><b>WP&Y Layout Update:</b></p><p>The layout is progressing, the mile 5-6 segment is mostly complete, the Fraser side is coming along. I've added a depression for the lake, and will be trying one of Woodland Scenics water products in it. It's been painted in olive drab and yellow near the banks. Some rock/scenery also has been added, and a rough draft of the backdrop printed.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzozMr01SsWO-brkrXf815fvetuZ-EMcxzsh_0jLl-AvVD4lkLJZJLpphCRuVKVxzYq8HhGzgWW2kBm5X8BZ_jmgcnozNA8aOacRjBLRH2jtM3LTY_2wG6r-jkH4Uf4psE1m5PFV8Tq_eDz2KBbUlAYJ5MXkV1dziULzxKJuGjXzWcN14JTJw3ilEsgc/s4032/IMG_4249.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzozMr01SsWO-brkrXf815fvetuZ-EMcxzsh_0jLl-AvVD4lkLJZJLpphCRuVKVxzYq8HhGzgWW2kBm5X8BZ_jmgcnozNA8aOacRjBLRH2jtM3LTY_2wG6r-jkH4Uf4psE1m5PFV8Tq_eDz2KBbUlAYJ5MXkV1dziULzxKJuGjXzWcN14JTJw3ilEsgc/s320/IMG_4249.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhReab77bMJDaDCIHsSw8DmX1aWp1aJ191XYs8uv3_pLGkiMIi1fhhG8MYIGul3Lv17o_SurXtGkoUJdX2lyi15rqeKSpyHXUOomj8-v57VDL3b_6ZWg6wDEZaRfhmswl5whyUHNJFO_yDq3Sc4xpALePdaLYiyIahXXMQV0l9COCqBDYo95c2iPVTb86s/s4032/IMG_4250.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhReab77bMJDaDCIHsSw8DmX1aWp1aJ191XYs8uv3_pLGkiMIi1fhhG8MYIGul3Lv17o_SurXtGkoUJdX2lyi15rqeKSpyHXUOomj8-v57VDL3b_6ZWg6wDEZaRfhmswl5whyUHNJFO_yDq3Sc4xpALePdaLYiyIahXXMQV0l9COCqBDYo95c2iPVTb86s/s320/IMG_4250.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>For those of you who have made it this far.. here's a little gift from CCE Models:</p><p><b>Free Plug-in Style CCE Coupler STL file </b><br /></p><p>The CCE coupler is a much more accurate representation of the "Janney" knuckle coupler than the stock T Gauge couplers for us North American (or Australia/NZ/S. Am.) modelers. These CCE couplers will plug into the stock coupler pocket on T gauge locomotives or rolling stock. They do not require the spring. There are 3 different sizes that can be used where longer or shorter drawbars are needed. <br /></p><p>If you want the RTR couplers, I intend to make sets available at TGauge.com. </p><p>But you can <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/13sKIk_U9UbP6HABP-4zXu59GmORZJwAX/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">download and print these</a> yourself (for non-commercial use only and there is no re-distribution or modification allowed without my permission.) You will need to have the equipment and expertise to print them. That being said, I recommend printing using a strong, high-detail resin (I print at 20um, using 80/20 blend of Phrozen Aqua 8K/Onyx Impact Plus). Other resins may work. Also, my experience is that Shapeways print materials are not strong enough for these couplers.</p><p>I wanted to make these available for free as an incentive to help us modelers achieve more realistic T-scale trains for the non-European/Japanese markets.<br /></p><p> Until next time! </p><p> - <i>Jesse </i> (email any questions or requests to me at ccetrains "at" gmail)</p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-69705884211294162782023-05-04T11:51:00.002-07:002023-05-04T11:56:07.191-07:00Magnetic Weight<div><br /></div><div>Just a quick post to pass along some experience I've acquired using magnets as "weight" in T-gauge rolling stock. I was penning an email to a fellow modeler on the subject and thought I should just share this.. so here we go:<br /></div><div> </div><div>As most of you know, the physics of T-gauge (and other small scale railway models) is quite challenging. Un-powered rolling stock models are typically so low mass, even with weight added, that they are extremely difficult to keep on the track. Locomotives get around this with magnetized wheels. Weight can be added to your other stock, but the size is so small that you can't really add enough in most cases. Several years ago I came upon neodymium magnets--rare earth magnets that are very strong for their size. I found they could be purchased in sizes that could be concealed in T-gauge rolling stock so got some to experiment with. I've since found my favorites and have been pleased with the results.<br /></div><div><br /></div>Where do you get them? There are several suppliers, but I (in the US) get mine from K&J Magnetics. <br /><br /><div>I use two sizes/styles:</div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>1/16in diameter 1/32 in thick cylinders. (<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod%3DD101-N52&source=gmail&ust=1683299992872000&usg=AOvVaw0VCR6n9wz0M2D7dynrHEjk" href="https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D101-N52" target="_blank">https://www.kjmagnetics.com/<wbr></wbr>proddetail.asp?prod=D101-N52</a>)</li><li>3/16in x 3/16in x 1/32in thick squares (blocks) (<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod%3DB3301&source=gmail&ust=1683299992872000&usg=AOvVaw0NVGs-syesY8TRx6vABY_S" href="https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=B3301" target="_blank">https://www.kjmagnetics.com/<wbr></wbr>proddetail.asp?prod=B3301</a>)</li></ul><div>When I design models I provide recessed areas for the magnet; In theory one could drill holes I suppose. </div><div> </div><div>Here is a 3-bay hopper. Note the spine of the car has cylindrical cut-outs for the magnets. The magnets install flush with the spine to allow for a profile that hides them--not that many people are down at trackside view at 1:450 though. With paint they are basically invisible. <br /></div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXcf_wq2ZN4nseSWdmxqovz1jytQuiCLiUsAe_R0x1sVQjkx5cp1DZosw9kuBsZGrcgk3QLYxR8a_aZg56G1mtJYmkU2wYuLsY_x11CbawWihB403VIQr1b8x8yugd9MisyezveFsGdiuxXecyO4HQRuO-ujkmJ1yq9L08V7uIxSGYep-rPdlnlP8O/s4032/IMG_3318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXcf_wq2ZN4nseSWdmxqovz1jytQuiCLiUsAe_R0x1sVQjkx5cp1DZosw9kuBsZGrcgk3QLYxR8a_aZg56G1mtJYmkU2wYuLsY_x11CbawWihB403VIQr1b8x8yugd9MisyezveFsGdiuxXecyO4HQRuO-ujkmJ1yq9L08V7uIxSGYep-rPdlnlP8O/s320/IMG_3318.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Here's a passenger car frame set up for the block magnet. It will invisible when installed as part of the frame.<br /> </div><div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc90RUchqIwwRY5QwKW_zXd2-BoNrwoLeTNi_gXUVKBV0K8-TEZS2fnDajDw0SFw9s1ngDmj4VVOMUpbld-jIb73UvyLHeb6lZppytuCw-wXXCIa-zYpnqxoH8VpfMa069XTMV7cvB71WyDnA5EItusNIp1Y03o7ycKkKXo_Wyd2n0hqI2g-Mo-W6u/s4032/IMG_3319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc90RUchqIwwRY5QwKW_zXd2-BoNrwoLeTNi_gXUVKBV0K8-TEZS2fnDajDw0SFw9s1ngDmj4VVOMUpbld-jIb73UvyLHeb6lZppytuCw-wXXCIa-zYpnqxoH8VpfMa069XTMV7cvB71WyDnA5EItusNIp1Y03o7ycKkKXo_Wyd2n0hqI2g-Mo-W6u/w240-h320/IMG_3319.JPG" width="240" /></a></div></div><div><br /></div><div>Installation can be tricky due to the size and strength of the magnets. Get a pair of
plastic tweezers because any tweezers of ferrous metal won't be able to "drop" the
magnets. Are there non-ferrous tweezers? And the installations like the hopper are tough because the second magnet always wants to jump to the first one.. but it can be done.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>To secure them, I
secure with Krystal Klear -or- UV cured adhesive (or ACC) when speed is needed. Notice how the magnet is invisible after installation.</div><div> </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2Se4LyTJCRgOK4lWuKEwp7vm-Io-YpkHiHt8iCvyNtwoG_VFwVEqpRtE8Y6te459wvm1Kc42xPgLCic7t4bedAlGNCR-5UUvthghinxM7HH30b7eExzDvQ1fXyl7m9ZFmh-IAP5WSKqmyxXSKuHyrcHWswsFX8X2STQMHGMAP2_HkGi6EEj-QZhH/s4032/IMG_3320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2Se4LyTJCRgOK4lWuKEwp7vm-Io-YpkHiHt8iCvyNtwoG_VFwVEqpRtE8Y6te459wvm1Kc42xPgLCic7t4bedAlGNCR-5UUvthghinxM7HH30b7eExzDvQ1fXyl7m9ZFmh-IAP5WSKqmyxXSKuHyrcHWswsFX8X2STQMHGMAP2_HkGi6EEj-QZhH/s320/IMG_3320.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><div> </div><div>How well do they work? Pretty well! I don't want the pull force to be so much that the car isn't movable, but you also want it to hold the car to the tracks. Frame height is the rule of thumb for me. </div><div> </div><div>Here's the hopper car
with two round magnets securing it. Note how the car is tipped about 30 degrees and doesn't fall off the rails. But it still rolls nicely.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB8XNpaqayE6mZtRrjaAxM8bFR6exumT5SkmqHjvM8ndCGwQ0rEzmzxiap2MChsUbgzOR4kwGkTn8g8uCrD-PObopbC0bfCjVIeAGYG42C9apPlUL2KG_-Oc1oAR2nQP97mKCYX9D5eAtnjbnMveOLR41G77vG4qTmmT4nys0ZBKkSDq6GyXuzsKUz/s4032/IMG_3323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB8XNpaqayE6mZtRrjaAxM8bFR6exumT5SkmqHjvM8ndCGwQ0rEzmzxiap2MChsUbgzOR4kwGkTn8g8uCrD-PObopbC0bfCjVIeAGYG42C9apPlUL2KG_-Oc1oAR2nQP97mKCYX9D5eAtnjbnMveOLR41G77vG4qTmmT4nys0ZBKkSDq6GyXuzsKUz/s320/IMG_3323.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div></div><p>I hope this helps! </p><p>I'll be publishing a new update in a week or so with some other news and follow-up on my various projects. -<i> Jesse</i><br /></p><p></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-41457247105516114832023-03-28T05:30:00.003-07:002023-03-28T05:30:47.656-07:001Q 2023: More Projects than Time<p><b>CCE Models</b>: If you're interested in an older CCE model printed by Shapeways, feel free to email me. I have a bunch of old prints that I'm willing to part with for basically the cost of shipping since the resin I'm using now is so far superior in terms of finish and durability. I'm also going through old designs and revising them with better details or improved fit/finish, making the old models obsolete. For example, I'll be re-doing the bi-level gallery cars, the 1:450 hoppers, and more. I'm also semi-seriously thinking about doing some retail kits--I made some sample FP7 kits (shell and decals) in a few roads. Feel free to inquire, as these would be excellent test models to practice on or just a bargain, if you're willing to go with the older material.<br /></p><p><b>3D Printing:</b> I did successful tests of the <a href="https://www.amazon.com/UV-Curing-Standard-Photopolymer-Precision-Excellent/dp/B08FM4KBYF/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3EKG8TZABR4ZJ&keywords=Voxelab+clear&qid=1680006265&sprefix=voxelab+%2Caps%2C754&sr=8-3" target="_blank">clear Voxlab resin</a> for windows in a CN lightweight coach as well as the 1:300 coach and DL535E. The windows are very satisfyingly flush, and easy to install compared to my other techniques--Krystal Klear and clear decal film. I'm setting up my 3D workshop with two separate vats: One for Aqua 8K Gray, and one for Clear. Saves time cleaning, etc. I did my first FEP change-out as well, and thanks to YouTube for the easy-to-follow instructions! <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-p1R_J-QZbItcSlnglFQog1miOiS87F4R-uGGBsm3iZ6uQKXDv6KSxWLgMbWwKdLPVsXk_-ucCLQ0JIuPdxa62nNhjCcovlKrDlSrZcLyDaQ7DAMr91AknRrj4Dqepk8PE09OqdA2tUx22w97BYK5c8WQcpYykZZXQhILTm7xKsKeah4_XbP2kkoS/s4032/CN%20IMG_2987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-p1R_J-QZbItcSlnglFQog1miOiS87F4R-uGGBsm3iZ6uQKXDv6KSxWLgMbWwKdLPVsXk_-ucCLQ0JIuPdxa62nNhjCcovlKrDlSrZcLyDaQ7DAMr91AknRrj4Dqepk8PE09OqdA2tUx22w97BYK5c8WQcpYykZZXQhILTm7xKsKeah4_XbP2kkoS/s320/CN%20IMG_2987.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPDdAVsknu-y-9x3Ku1nI3A4-VgD5AlaWAgm3DxDY_ZSM-6Lci7CiuKPbawfzDkyScmArnTLtqgbSsi3c--6oK1lBM6UlBXrK_Dn1l2BgKAzWCa-J5uLyZRSvL7POryDnjZMQ-Joa9v3U4ScohwVkp_-hB7M7k_Am2oTJxzf7dy5JUAghyAtk7fgs/s4032/IMG_2909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOPDdAVsknu-y-9x3Ku1nI3A4-VgD5AlaWAgm3DxDY_ZSM-6Lci7CiuKPbawfzDkyScmArnTLtqgbSsi3c--6oK1lBM6UlBXrK_Dn1l2BgKAzWCa-J5uLyZRSvL7POryDnjZMQ-Joa9v3U4ScohwVkp_-hB7M7k_Am2oTJxzf7dy5JUAghyAtk7fgs/s320/IMG_2909.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEv_fxE16hExZnj_OHQXoz6Hu5361wfUJMYrTsRLHe0elmWp1GlXfMQqjuPRnWFtDnktNmV2M3dCBFSYXHxjPGIq_6teL8H4SGWHUTmpewzCoXWAzO8Zh_3sm7T0pBKhkAEcJv2lY2DK2B-3xyoO1Ugqy-HbY3lxKTQrVAxgDy-q5-Jy3_BvTe-3vq/s4032/IMG_2911(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEv_fxE16hExZnj_OHQXoz6Hu5361wfUJMYrTsRLHe0elmWp1GlXfMQqjuPRnWFtDnktNmV2M3dCBFSYXHxjPGIq_6teL8H4SGWHUTmpewzCoXWAzO8Zh_3sm7T0pBKhkAEcJv2lY2DK2B-3xyoO1Ugqy-HbY3lxKTQrVAxgDy-q5-Jy3_BvTe-3vq/s320/IMG_2911(1).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b>T Scale Narrow Body (GP38) Chassis:</b> This is still on the back burner; I've been working on models that are "drop on" for the existing chassis for now, like the H24-66 (see below). To be continued...<b> <br /></b></p><p><b>New and Improved T Scale FP7/9):</b> The RTR FP9 model is still in development, some back-and-forth regarding paint schemes. In the meantime, as mentioned I have some FP7 kits (shell and decals) put together. If you want one, email me. $10 each plus shipping. Roadnames: B&O, SCL, MILW. I've been refreshing the passenger cars that would be good pulled behind these, such as the CN lightweight coach, a Budd lightweight stainless steel coach, and the Gallery cars.<br /></p><p><b>FM H24-66 "Train Master": </b>The experience with the DL535E on the 6-axle chassis lead to the thought of doing a "drop on" shell for the chassis in T-scale. Fairbanks Morse's Train Master locomotive dimensions are close enough, and the prototype already has a slightly thicker hood than EMD or Alco locomotives, so I decided to test one. It came together well, and the oversize hood thickness doesn't detract. I'm testing some different paint schemes (Reading, N&W, and SP) and if you're interested in getting a kit for one of these, let me know--I'll probably do them similarly to the FP7.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPbjQ9vA3CepdDPICqDIZfllCoYnZ4Tai6ZANXSKzfOw1oTewZLm3AcMeBXog4YcnvjNlKSZKwJZAvTrmSg5WcKT3h2irENPzsv-T-AeRKHio226pT2U_7ZEbnbkk7g96om4MMYa5Q7kLYK1Pa7_mXGLJqAV-mXwk03Gv0c87cCf8esbDU78kOF7v/s4032/IMG_3080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzPbjQ9vA3CepdDPICqDIZfllCoYnZ4Tai6ZANXSKzfOw1oTewZLm3AcMeBXog4YcnvjNlKSZKwJZAvTrmSg5WcKT3h2irENPzsv-T-AeRKHio226pT2U_7ZEbnbkk7g96om4MMYa5Q7kLYK1Pa7_mXGLJqAV-mXwk03Gv0c87cCf8esbDU78kOF7v/s320/IMG_3080.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b>Mn3 Rolling Stock</b>: I finished up the two hopper designs and painted up one of each; I will be testing some EBT rolling stock at a future date. I have two DL535Es on the workbench just waiting for paint.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSG-gSanOLrwR7QKmRUntiDb_TT0rz7IkdZgKGph-Aau5rpACH9qMbM0D9-kn5nJu2miBd8Bdid7orcOJT5N86CeQpJQX0aV0B9N9AyalmT_oi9tnm9gI4u9G_MnVuegK06QWq7E-5xkEo9sIwZIrrFC1NIBnVEnA7-8LYeizoVVR1ZDcZjSJKNoy/s4032/IMG_2830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVSG-gSanOLrwR7QKmRUntiDb_TT0rz7IkdZgKGph-Aau5rpACH9qMbM0D9-kn5nJu2miBd8Bdid7orcOJT5N86CeQpJQX0aV0B9N9AyalmT_oi9tnm9gI4u9G_MnVuegK06QWq7E-5xkEo9sIwZIrrFC1NIBnVEnA7-8LYeizoVVR1ZDcZjSJKNoy/s320/IMG_2830.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p><b>WP&Y Layout Update: </b> Scenery is almost done on the Bridge 6B side; Many more trees and bushes from Dan at <a href="https://www.ebay.com/str/scenerytime" target="_blank">Scenerytime</a>
and a backdrop have been installed. Rock was weathered with several washes of different colors to try capture the varied coloration from lichen, water, and dirt that washes down the faces.<br /></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKvys5h6OJTjgz_kArXoMcNLDMuGYuW6ndu91YE1tDBKTtssalc0I1rfZq6ZzI3UyWB7WKcGiXw2Wrgi5lP-bg0f6mvZyIdhmUmcF_qXAMfZb--yVyhPFgrcdYwHDgBRdnUG6Hz2Dx7FtVpXJJ0zwVcmIzgXVzTaYKxW-xlccTYeG_pIKo0VnqYt5/s3346/IMG_3013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2510" data-original-width="3346" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKvys5h6OJTjgz_kArXoMcNLDMuGYuW6ndu91YE1tDBKTtssalc0I1rfZq6ZzI3UyWB7WKcGiXw2Wrgi5lP-bg0f6mvZyIdhmUmcF_qXAMfZb--yVyhPFgrcdYwHDgBRdnUG6Hz2Dx7FtVpXJJ0zwVcmIzgXVzTaYKxW-xlccTYeG_pIKo0VnqYt5/s320/IMG_3013.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> Track also got some weathering with dark gray chalks.<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pCes-u_Ghxtdj9RS_-J9O2kUARId0d2UxWgUFWz1linkZhomfj_o7mGN6ssVJbBom7Y6Nd1otyZiumqotlBbJ7TdBJqG-wucNQedh-PbEhLpQLeraVvJVmM33wHBtrMQoAcC2PK31jJQt17wGPfT1bmtKHhJg_z6hnJXAOjcaMrn6-go2A7ASWWR/s4032/IMG_2996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-pCes-u_Ghxtdj9RS_-J9O2kUARId0d2UxWgUFWz1linkZhomfj_o7mGN6ssVJbBom7Y6Nd1otyZiumqotlBbJ7TdBJqG-wucNQedh-PbEhLpQLeraVvJVmM33wHBtrMQoAcC2PK31jJQt17wGPfT1bmtKHhJg_z6hnJXAOjcaMrn6-go2A7ASWWR/s320/IMG_2996.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><p>I also finished up the Fraser Water Tank/station. This is 3D printed with some details added. The ropes to raise/lower the spout are 0.13mm Tungsten wire.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJz5jweFtn5tH35G3x9NvwHBthxlyYTTeYJsom8_DHQBXERoyRffpjlZm-T2ZpBWj1u5k2VRwXgfuTHyo8BGTU_XPxHRkddALbL1am65DupY9I17o3wkk0wGXNhovEMYnd8cY4MHzmLTBBG9Pf70BeXb-kbW6yqKqkT1N-nM0heEOw2U1XRQhkWj2v/s3768/IMG_2907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2597" data-original-width="3768" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJz5jweFtn5tH35G3x9NvwHBthxlyYTTeYJsom8_DHQBXERoyRffpjlZm-T2ZpBWj1u5k2VRwXgfuTHyo8BGTU_XPxHRkddALbL1am65DupY9I17o3wkk0wGXNhovEMYnd8cY4MHzmLTBBG9Pf70BeXb-kbW6yqKqkT1N-nM0heEOw2U1XRQhkWj2v/s320/IMG_2907.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Seems like the blog is taking on a "Quarterly" format so look for an update sometime this summer. </p><p>- <i>Jesse </i> (email any questions or requests to me at ccetrains "at" gmail)<br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-40705502356919521222023-01-20T08:58:00.003-08:002023-03-28T04:34:42.099-07:00New Years Update<p>Happy New Year Everyone! It's time for an update on the T-gauge projects from myself and CCE Models.</p><p><b>CCE Models Availability</b>: I stopped selling through the website because I'm not really interested in selling as a commercial enterprise--I feel like I would have to make a bigger commitment of time than I'm able to make to "do it right". I'm really just a modeler and enthusiastic T-gauger and occasionally I will sell a model or two, or some decals, to my fellow modelers. Furthermore, the market is just not big enough for me to justify anything more than that right now. That being said, I'm in discussions with a retailer who would stock up on a few of my kits and sell them. All that being said, if you are interested in buying some models, feel free to email me and I'll do my best to accommodate you. <br /></p><p><b>3D Printing: </b>All production is now on the 3D printer and I'm pretty well dialed in. It may still take multiple iterations of a print to get it right between supports and the model design itself but I'm refining my skills. My printer (as mentioned before) is a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K, and I really love this machine. Game changer. I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K resin with excellent results. I have two new resins I need to test: One is a clear resin (think: windows,etc) and the other is a rubber-like resin.<br /></p><p><b>T Scale Narrow Body (GP38) Chassis:</b>
This project is in hiatus while I work on some others. It will go back to the top of the list before very long.<b> <br /></b></p><p><b>New and Improved T Scale FP7 (or FP9):</b> There is something in the works with a model manufacturer that will hopefully see the FP9 produced commercially as an RTR model within the year. I gave them license to the design and am acting as consultant on the project. For this reason I'm holding off selling the shells but I have several test models on the workbench. Speaking of my workbench--it's a nightmare! </p><p>I have a couple test models on the workbench--here's a PRR FP7. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCbcda2JKSE1oaY4oVzGSpuPGtjerQUPxT9u0AJOtRn5CyqjulkQo7yYzC0RNk_Mx0zRb7vI0t8GIMdbVlZy6HkzaGvYQdo6a_Q1hV1ZyZOTMJ0veVNZ_nz0CrXtGKjniPOdePDGjOOacFF-n7qpCoiAk0W6boVsuGRf-z1mkWLukuddBjqAZZY56/s2016/IMG_2515.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCbcda2JKSE1oaY4oVzGSpuPGtjerQUPxT9u0AJOtRn5CyqjulkQo7yYzC0RNk_Mx0zRb7vI0t8GIMdbVlZy6HkzaGvYQdo6a_Q1hV1ZyZOTMJ0veVNZ_nz0CrXtGKjniPOdePDGjOOacFF-n7qpCoiAk0W6boVsuGRf-z1mkWLukuddBjqAZZY56/s320/IMG_2515.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b>Mn3 Rolling Stock:</b> I have several new designs that are completed for M scale (1:300) narrow gauge rolling stock; Two hoppers and a coach. The hoppers are totally new designs but were found on the WP&Y. The first is an ex-CN longitudinal hopper, the other is an ex-East Broad Top hopper. For the EBT hopper I have also made decals for the original owner as well as Durango & Silverton and WP&Y. I am making these with some details I hadn't tried in the past in such a small scale, such as grab irons, and believe it or not they are printing successfully and are robust enough to withstand handling. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcqx-OUZ0DuqrTlHcb-6igcgC5U8jai5QJfoxvIvlggZRYmE_8Df0mgqtmTWZVNF4duPHIVwAySAOgTyjHQW_2TrYruFGG4WlyaMMYQJZkxC0OM97NueQU_sDrxdoorG9CqfrXr99yrs98cOUpFJLmcYP5irFtGyy54dW-DijGrh_59x_ylT9XODa/s2016/IMG_2718.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkcqx-OUZ0DuqrTlHcb-6igcgC5U8jai5QJfoxvIvlggZRYmE_8Df0mgqtmTWZVNF4duPHIVwAySAOgTyjHQW_2TrYruFGG4WlyaMMYQJZkxC0OM97NueQU_sDrxdoorG9CqfrXr99yrs98cOUpFJLmcYP5irFtGyy54dW-DijGrh_59x_ylT9XODa/s320/IMG_2718.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQRLDADgx34foi9FJIOplGEGfk638agk8_qnlAXlnILb24SCSWD32Ssuvc4COlNYl467q6jtsUM3XvfFwffhNE_IhW6FOrE3G0ctqbqfx34drrCi7Ms4hhhYSxlu0Y_tETufsOgSaUq5hZE5eRnDlhnWaSnzo8tEs4YaYMB5fvxnSoQFz2DW_j1EVB/s2016/IMG_2723.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQRLDADgx34foi9FJIOplGEGfk638agk8_qnlAXlnILb24SCSWD32Ssuvc4COlNYl467q6jtsUM3XvfFwffhNE_IhW6FOrE3G0ctqbqfx34drrCi7Ms4hhhYSxlu0Y_tETufsOgSaUq5hZE5eRnDlhnWaSnzo8tEs4YaYMB5fvxnSoQFz2DW_j1EVB/s320/IMG_2723.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>I also refreshed my WP&Y narrow gauge coach (technically Combination Smoker, Numbers 214 & 216). Originally this model had etched brass sides because Shapeways couldn't print smoothly enough. My PSM8K is up to the task however and the sides are now integrated and have somewhat better detail around the windows and belt. The troublesome part is the truss rods... I'm testing some alternate ways to achieve this using the printer, but may end up using etched brass in the end. These are two test models, still not completed with the design:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MUJlzA58jKr0r-PRTVAtvy_MntjN_dZXoF-T1a_yo_K3z6kmz_9iudtX9FEbeGm6VAGEMWvvk8UxlUt0WX2Qdq4dm0mJK_a28SVQUMOkgQOVvzFuxR8gCsmjVdu4sNPRY6jdIvgVezrYvBYj_zWURI4LM7n_nCyJ61AxtPUr3OJcHCvcaXmT78C7/s4032/IMG_2764.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2MUJlzA58jKr0r-PRTVAtvy_MntjN_dZXoF-T1a_yo_K3z6kmz_9iudtX9FEbeGm6VAGEMWvvk8UxlUt0WX2Qdq4dm0mJK_a28SVQUMOkgQOVvzFuxR8gCsmjVdu4sNPRY6jdIvgVezrYvBYj_zWURI4LM7n_nCyJ61AxtPUr3OJcHCvcaXmT78C7/s320/IMG_2764.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p><b>WP&Y Layout Update: </b>The layout is progressing slowly as I refine techniques. </p><p>Trackwork: First an update on the track-laying technique. Recall my note about the tendency of the T-gauge flexitrack to twist on curves, especially tight curves? Well I noticed some sections where the track has pulled up and twisted a bit after ballasting, and kinked at a joint. I think the wetting from ballasting loosened the glue holding the track down and allowed it to move slightly. It's not very noticeable, but in the future I will hold down all curved track with Liquid Nails construction adhesive, or other waterproof cement.</p><p>I did power up the loop and spent several days running to-and-fro making sure there was continuity and trains ran properly. It's really a short loop and I didn't even bother with extra feeders. </p><p>Ballast is down around the layout now, and I'm starting scenery using a variety of ground foams and broken up hydrocal as boulders. To be honest, scenery isn't my forte and I'm testing/refining along the way. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcTuTeRncc59-vZZaDttGnyo37GN5b5WDbxIK1VtdA6qH6uROaiXj5Zu2bFbTaV6OyV0xm1b6dUDs8guiuQY3T1JZuF5iatJhGjX4j2swjJTWGB5PXISgtxByTDhSGBUH6Dzqddr5WvqkC9Vf3wYv-tL1y3I7xIaLVg1Uh5INzeE3kWmDQlPZDwnx/s1848/IMG_2716.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1848" data-original-width="1386" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitcTuTeRncc59-vZZaDttGnyo37GN5b5WDbxIK1VtdA6qH6uROaiXj5Zu2bFbTaV6OyV0xm1b6dUDs8guiuQY3T1JZuF5iatJhGjX4j2swjJTWGB5PXISgtxByTDhSGBUH6Dzqddr5WvqkC9Vf3wYv-tL1y3I7xIaLVg1Uh5INzeE3kWmDQlPZDwnx/s320/IMG_2716.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdQmrG4b-zyC_ZvR9P0TAmOYJ50eJFI2AipvaW1yFfrM2ZI5gwXikFkAo-CGxgtUVmvCe1BIdu1Oxwuf0j8AXust_-vCctaZf7IPr75NXdbTyJRyDPtPFhw_9a-rDu1DS3iwQ24E7iKKfCyYd-cxO9q_wE6lFnE_sAKgG3n8X9T-sono86EoclR70/s2016/IMG_2717.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmdQmrG4b-zyC_ZvR9P0TAmOYJ50eJFI2AipvaW1yFfrM2ZI5gwXikFkAo-CGxgtUVmvCe1BIdu1Oxwuf0j8AXust_-vCctaZf7IPr75NXdbTyJRyDPtPFhw_9a-rDu1DS3iwQ24E7iKKfCyYd-cxO9q_wE6lFnE_sAKgG3n8X9T-sono86EoclR70/s320/IMG_2717.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p>As I will need a bunch of them, I tested several ready-made (yet affordable) pine tree sources, and ultimately found an excellent one: Dan at <a href="https://www.ebay.com/str/scenerytime" target="_blank">Scenerytime</a>, who sells on Ebay. The trees and bushes are excellent--see the pic below. These pine trees (regular and dark) are much better than the others I have found that just look like bottle brushes. Well worth
checking out. Note: The far right tree is a Scotch Pine (iirc) from a UK architectural supplier. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeVgvg353XCX-dxfJemX1_yIGeFudbUHh7xB73SdvWQnsvVYOokAVlxif-jvKa839QzsIboiQAlkWyV7U39s5R9Y7-K7nrAkiZuHonM5YyCpsKOdne5BOq-_-i7VLqAKIuTE5zyB_xAYtUzvTQN_wrkRIvgmspNd5RIKFJM152DSlf0dt2ADYgcWOs/s2016/IMG_2765.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeVgvg353XCX-dxfJemX1_yIGeFudbUHh7xB73SdvWQnsvVYOokAVlxif-jvKa839QzsIboiQAlkWyV7U39s5R9Y7-K7nrAkiZuHonM5YyCpsKOdne5BOq-_-i7VLqAKIuTE5zyB_xAYtUzvTQN_wrkRIvgmspNd5RIKFJM152DSlf0dt2ADYgcWOs/s320/IMG_2765.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>Until the next installment, best wishes and Keep on Modeling! </p><p>-Jesse<br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p><br /><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-43462494499506684502022-09-27T14:29:00.000-07:002022-09-27T14:29:27.068-07:00Late September T-Scale Mega Update<p> It's time for an update on my T-gauge antics! Despite the "summer fun" I have been very busy. Let's see.. where to start.</p><p><b>3D Printer:</b> The 3D printer (a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K) has turned out to be one of the best investments I have made in this hobby. After years of slow turn-around, fragile parts, and not-so-great resolution using Shapeways, this printer is absolutely <i>the shizzle</i>. I have done a host of projects since the test pieces previously discussed. Most importantly, I'm becoming pretty familiar with the materials and settings needed to create good models. The new SLA resins for the 3D printer were first tested and put to use on the parts Shapeways FUD material was most ill-suited for: Trucks and couplers. A series of tests of my existing designs of roller bearing, Bettendorf, narrow gauge passenger trucks proved the new materials--particularly one called TGM-7--was ideal for these parts. It's tough, somewhat flexible, and very detailed. The couplers were next, and I made some tweaks to improve them while I was at it. The coupler and shank can now be replaced in the draft gear. The result is the <b>CCE MkIV coupler</b>, really the best so far. Note: the old CCE couplers are still compatible, but are really fragile.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRNEnlryTVhQRES7yq_J4w_YDJu6N_0sl4lWo4xKl9JSTfXnWFPE8rh_U3aMaSDTqgf0YjxqqfE9lYjrls7Y6U5G1yCOkohEkygsCCsFDs4Zr-MVtjCQ4w7t0Qbw8zopo6tMb2OOkKKW_6DXVIogYgHUN333StORMbqjia-5Ak_Rqqwaps5-4lQyt/s4032/RB.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnRNEnlryTVhQRES7yq_J4w_YDJu6N_0sl4lWo4xKl9JSTfXnWFPE8rh_U3aMaSDTqgf0YjxqqfE9lYjrls7Y6U5G1yCOkohEkygsCCsFDs4Zr-MVtjCQ4w7t0Qbw8zopo6tMb2OOkKKW_6DXVIogYgHUN333StORMbqjia-5Ak_Rqqwaps5-4lQyt/s320/RB.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p><b>T Scale Narrow Body (GP38) Chassis:</b> Priorities... One of the issues getting the GP38 finalized has been the trucks (bogies for you non-Americans). The trucks need to be able to reliably conduct electricity from the rails to the motor while also being able to transmit tractive effort from the drive to the rails. The original bogie design is actually ingenious at doing this, despite those difficult to manage springs. I had been trying to invent a new design using wipers and dispensing with the springs, with some success. But I never got it accomplished reliably; One issue with the process is that etching new metal parts (wipers/contacts) required a months-long turn-around for each iteration. In the end, I decided in the name of speed I would just adapt the standard truck design to work with the narrow chassis. The hitch had been the non-prototypical sideframes (the KIHA design). Some find that acceptable but it wasn't good enough for me; My practice has been to sand down the sideframes and glue on Blomberg sideframes. Well, even <i>that </i>wasn't good enough, so I designed Blomberg trucks that accept the TGauge contacts and wheelsets. This was no simple feat, and took a multitude of iterations to get right, but it's done. So, using these new Blomberg trucks, what was the first "complete" locomotive to be? Not a GP38, that can wait.</p><p><b>New and Improved FP7 (or FP9):</b> The actual EMD FP7 truck-center spacing closely matches the spacing on the stock 35mm chassis, and I had previously designed a shell to fit it. This shell wasn't as detailed as my more recent models, but it's such an "easy" adaptation that I figured that this update would be the first CCE model to get the new Blomberg trucks. This actually turned into a rather large project over the course of weeks. I updated the design and details, and even made several versions based on the detailing variations for different roads:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Pennsylvania RR (as built with Trainfone antenna)</li><li>PRR and Penn Central (late with no antenna and cut-away skirts)</li><li>Milwaukee Road</li><li>Chesapeake & Ohio (later B&O)</li><li>Seaboard Cost Line</li><li>Canadian National (FP9) <br /></li></ul><p>Another cool thing is I added capability for a 0402 LED for lighting. And while the shell has a large cut-out in the pilot for the stock coupler, there's also an insert for those who want the better appearance of the MkIV coupler. There's even a semi-scale coupler (non functional) coupler. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHzd3gVgGbQPrUgPjf9ccRFRj75PasA-h2317jnpmMuZjtupcBhPj3cZJ8qla5oDnJESvKg3_wzCFJCKFjteUL-AVZu1mc09ceXYrOISBU4TwwWXI9vo-mIIP4JNdDtSvj7iWKCfIfD_hBWqqFOkNDXH24TQKUXRV8XY_mJe6k9GgvxaCVA7ic-LB/s4032/IMG_2005(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyHzd3gVgGbQPrUgPjf9ccRFRj75PasA-h2317jnpmMuZjtupcBhPj3cZJ8qla5oDnJESvKg3_wzCFJCKFjteUL-AVZu1mc09ceXYrOISBU4TwwWXI9vo-mIIP4JNdDtSvj7iWKCfIfD_hBWqqFOkNDXH24TQKUXRV8XY_mJe6k9GgvxaCVA7ic-LB/s320/IMG_2005(1).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Above is the FP7 using the standard chassis, LED adapter and LED installed, and MkIV coupler and pilot insert. </p><p>Here it is running (sound effect added--it doesn't have sound.. yet!): </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kyCQHEVNc1o" width="320" youtube-src-id="kyCQHEVNc1o"></iframe></div><br /> <br /><p></p><p>Below is the CN FP9 body shell.<br /><br /></p><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgguJDYadZ_RD1csx_1-BjMbZa2wMBHB8u96gyP6I_PCZEtOIK1OlWfw7tYbYlcjBhc9iiy3Z0BPPMSdQAOVk7my1l-s3dcfQsdBauSF-p1o93p_5TTluTMPWei-1wXqrnCuKQYWFsI3416Vs6zqcUZj0je80ymCvEbLA8sijrbXkSaDcVYZSu4Ds9a/s4032/IMG_2072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgguJDYadZ_RD1csx_1-BjMbZa2wMBHB8u96gyP6I_PCZEtOIK1OlWfw7tYbYlcjBhc9iiy3Z0BPPMSdQAOVk7my1l-s3dcfQsdBauSF-p1o93p_5TTluTMPWei-1wXqrnCuKQYWFsI3416Vs6zqcUZj0je80ymCvEbLA8sijrbXkSaDcVYZSu4Ds9a/s320/IMG_2072.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I'm planning on making several kits (FP7 shell, trucks, LED and pilot adapters, couplers and decals) available through TGauge.com by later this fall (November 2022). An RTR version may be available soon as well. Stay tuned!</p><p><b>DL535E Update:</b> While we're talking about locomotives, check out the last prototype of the DL535E. This rides on a stock 6-axle chassis, with 3D printed Tri-mount sideframes added, and brass side handrails. End handrails and the body are 3D printed. I have decals but have not gotten around to paint and decals yet. There are special elongated MkIV couplers for the model as well.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgye_Sd7qw_THwdaspS6RR8Pdn9MbexXtaX-Dtqzl2VY_VqCmd77sDDmjEyIR8pJW-8PB66FRW5EeiMkiAM-lqsXtWGyyeR7dSqOmza77dQO-lNXo_6nmrDHV3mnrHJjPvPGu3-ZtbbGf6uHRuZQVmABBW13hTYFFTTQ7t78STigLN1L828rg66nwJu/s4032/IMG_1855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgye_Sd7qw_THwdaspS6RR8Pdn9MbexXtaX-Dtqzl2VY_VqCmd77sDDmjEyIR8pJW-8PB66FRW5EeiMkiAM-lqsXtWGyyeR7dSqOmza77dQO-lNXo_6nmrDHV3mnrHJjPvPGu3-ZtbbGf6uHRuZQVmABBW13hTYFFTTQ7t78STigLN1L828rg66nwJu/s320/IMG_1855.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>WP&Y Layout Update:</b> The layout has been progressing and track has finally been laid to complete the loop. In the course of doing this I have developed a way to improve the appearance of the TGauge track. This is the "wider sleeper flextrack". Here are the steps to get track laid prior to painting/ballasting:</p><p>1. Using a heavy blade, remove the large nail adapters by snipping the web under the rail on both sides, flush with the adjacent tie:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1KJnHCPuiZm5JznyN1lb1UxdSNIG2RJwXPl88qXCtOozTnoOzefEOG_9bwOFxInnKgfUbMiOrZyi01QvttUnwcdQLEjU6V8hgM1btg8O9UK2Ianh543h4iglGZJWzvk-ie1y_hC4171dxvelxcX9o83jyPn1P_7dkJtfat9nG3Mud51gLFD0xWXR/s4032/IMG_2140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1KJnHCPuiZm5JznyN1lb1UxdSNIG2RJwXPl88qXCtOozTnoOzefEOG_9bwOFxInnKgfUbMiOrZyi01QvttUnwcdQLEjU6V8hgM1btg8O9UK2Ianh543h4iglGZJWzvk-ie1y_hC4171dxvelxcX9o83jyPn1P_7dkJtfat9nG3Mud51gLFD0xWXR/s320/IMG_2140.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>2. Clean up the ties with a fine knife:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrzJcKzXLb-QeDmhTts64Zv_KWUvFjz7n3pHwj-PHhF6cKaOSCGz1CAUsHVcAEVCB4MnmMGcVcgIwAeu6jZ2A9DwjP_xykE1dkfHNq1h8HGFt3iunNDtRwiQM1WrQd5X6k0tochhHZyuD2gCTpa-nCG1Z_leWQcO0N_Y4Y4aqyVAoF9DOnl4eMELcs/s4032/IMG_2164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrzJcKzXLb-QeDmhTts64Zv_KWUvFjz7n3pHwj-PHhF6cKaOSCGz1CAUsHVcAEVCB4MnmMGcVcgIwAeu6jZ2A9DwjP_xykE1dkfHNq1h8HGFt3iunNDtRwiQM1WrQd5X6k0tochhHZyuD2gCTpa-nCG1Z_leWQcO0N_Y4Y4aqyVAoF9DOnl4eMELcs/s320/IMG_2164.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>3. Connect flextrack with joiners or adapters, and use T-pins and thumbtacks to hold in place. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewNBJHaUmqdo7cCQ6iTXkfUAF-7sfKByiobhMPCmSG0HJEFN3uUSXtZm81TFCm1CEY3-VrIgAMtpWlTN3UScMl8LGtdQKLru341Kg75MZxX8OdcjTggiZbRSlwMsn552Xtzt2jG5NkWs_ZkX8A5EITdDKvs0tfSX4Y2LAWSnY04ASaQplow8xSqW9/s4032/IMG_2169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgewNBJHaUmqdo7cCQ6iTXkfUAF-7sfKByiobhMPCmSG0HJEFN3uUSXtZm81TFCm1CEY3-VrIgAMtpWlTN3UScMl8LGtdQKLru341Kg75MZxX8OdcjTggiZbRSlwMsn552Xtzt2jG5NkWs_ZkX8A5EITdDKvs0tfSX4Y2LAWSnY04ASaQplow8xSqW9/s320/IMG_2169.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>4. Apply 50-50 water-carpenters glue to affix. At this point I will also slide in extra ties under the joints or wherever else is needed.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir-tgpLx0r-urdH_8RfYzKHdPGRArU54z9d4YxSBArrmbonXFrvxnU1HoHrx02lw-SNrHcq8kOS8HOEH4mmPebMLxfl1ZFR3pzfDxucrEfUxlcnWGEy3gjuQYni2atjFo9awx-f-_AkT3dzxfFUXypiARLjWNiRc_i_KsDEKPdsJtDunqCORUshpwQ/s4032/IMG_2170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir-tgpLx0r-urdH_8RfYzKHdPGRArU54z9d4YxSBArrmbonXFrvxnU1HoHrx02lw-SNrHcq8kOS8HOEH4mmPebMLxfl1ZFR3pzfDxucrEfUxlcnWGEy3gjuQYni2atjFo9awx-f-_AkT3dzxfFUXypiARLjWNiRc_i_KsDEKPdsJtDunqCORUshpwQ/s320/IMG_2170.JPG" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQtO3_6NS1eLsKwAvYGY2F7QodbW6TXBoNK2mH-ygQZ-Q9Kfgtsxkp42hhmaNRS0OJB51LmN0ktV7O1p578J6lfzxMtivOynV42RaNfUue9RIIvKweOR4uzOXmOMphkzSeaZzWoKdkuBItrgZBewI__2drCjN1jyAdPqE6KoowzxaN6fbQ9UWeFv8i/s4032/IMG_2172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQtO3_6NS1eLsKwAvYGY2F7QodbW6TXBoNK2mH-ygQZ-Q9Kfgtsxkp42hhmaNRS0OJB51LmN0ktV7O1p578J6lfzxMtivOynV42RaNfUue9RIIvKweOR4uzOXmOMphkzSeaZzWoKdkuBItrgZBewI__2drCjN1jyAdPqE6KoowzxaN6fbQ9UWeFv8i/s320/IMG_2172.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Here's how the rail looks when painted.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5OfYQyN0-7pVheBGarLjln8JWzV4OluuYf5TcHdoMGRQfGL7FUAM9XBP6FY3cFIX4-EKlnRgIFaERfa-vzM3eVR9G0KDMS7YvaOQD8lan49kj--5cnD52RhmrvZl8lXbNLmqYf0aXqG24drBkei683BOrqXmIBKFPC1QBHg-66rJREi5nYMHyoWCy/s4032/IMG_2199.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5OfYQyN0-7pVheBGarLjln8JWzV4OluuYf5TcHdoMGRQfGL7FUAM9XBP6FY3cFIX4-EKlnRgIFaERfa-vzM3eVR9G0KDMS7YvaOQD8lan49kj--5cnD52RhmrvZl8lXbNLmqYf0aXqG24drBkei683BOrqXmIBKFPC1QBHg-66rJREi5nYMHyoWCy/s320/IMG_2199.JPG" width="320" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSei6A1ulM1QX6XLUf1DZpWWPxIp7C2OPTjvV3869VbWIma1wKADcKatrNwH_BOkFrEksWgB7uYB5io4ykbwAARN6MmXGJVq7V3RA7QtSK7dAeQ-ybLl_t84Rc6av6k488mtV2vObJ6LOXpxlGjmT_7PfmHFmRbWmf4XzpmXN-m0fltQrrzt3p8zGk/s4032/IMG_2175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSei6A1ulM1QX6XLUf1DZpWWPxIp7C2OPTjvV3869VbWIma1wKADcKatrNwH_BOkFrEksWgB7uYB5io4ykbwAARN6MmXGJVq7V3RA7QtSK7dAeQ-ybLl_t84Rc6av6k488mtV2vObJ6LOXpxlGjmT_7PfmHFmRbWmf4XzpmXN-m0fltQrrzt3p8zGk/s320/IMG_2175.JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div> </div><p></p><p>Curves: Either use plain joiners and <u>solder joints</u> or use the provided connector adapters; I have done both and given the nature of the rail (it is stiff and wants to twist) there's no perfect solution, yet. The adapters need to be cleaned up themselves--I snip the end ties off then drill out the web between the ties and clean it up with a sharp knife. I then use lots of T-pins to hold the joint and curve in place. Soldering is tough because the ties melt pretty easily. I really wish there was longer strips of flex track.. and I may try 3D printing some lengths of tie strips for the longer Code 40 rail. Added bonus: 3D printed ties are also much more heat resistant and withstand soldering much better.</p><p>Oh did you notice the small structure in the previous picture? That's my model of the enclosed water tank/station/section house on the WP&Y in Fraser BC. This scene will be the flip side of the small layout. This was just a 2nd iteration prototype, the final will be very slightly different.<br /></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtb-PTG9nfPEOb-o0ll-nf-uo3ugSBANBXmikvLIai6tUGggL_o3wxJYhLfYq3PNMhQr-CN3_mHTL0HXYQmnCXuNQoSX73v3XXyIimH4NibzuQhdK-vzmS7Nt_2DrBHnW4g5GUM_Kw2HUm0Je7AUZRrjKVY6yRy47E_Wq8qPv_W8qJ5sZ-cbQHDhq/s4032/IMG_2204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGtb-PTG9nfPEOb-o0ll-nf-uo3ugSBANBXmikvLIai6tUGggL_o3wxJYhLfYq3PNMhQr-CN3_mHTL0HXYQmnCXuNQoSX73v3XXyIimH4NibzuQhdK-vzmS7Nt_2DrBHnW4g5GUM_Kw2HUm0Je7AUZRrjKVY6yRy47E_Wq8qPv_W8qJ5sZ-cbQHDhq/s320/IMG_2204.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /> Whew. Well there were a few other small projects but they can wait. In the meantime please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or comments. - Jesse<br /><p></p><p><b> </b><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-65575248383276004962022-06-04T07:29:00.002-07:002022-06-04T07:56:41.740-07:00Is It Summer Yet?<p>Many modelers seem to get much more into the hobby in winter, as they stay in the warmth and get their modeling jobs done uninterrupted by grass cutting, vacations, and the like. I'm a bit of the opposite as I really detest hot, muggy weather (in southwest Ohio), and live in a condo where there's essentially no yard maintenance required, so find myself just as busy--if not more so--in the summertime. And it looks like a busy summer is in store! Here are some updates on various T-gauge projects.</p><p><b>T Scale Narrow Body Drive/GP38 Chassis:</b> This project has been on the back-burner with the iterative delays with etching and 3D printing cycle time. The narrow-body motor+worm gear drive train has been proven (at least a few iterations), but the the bogies remain a stubborn issue. My stubborn insistence on a decent-looking Blomberg truck and refusal to use the damned tension springs has lead to several different approaches. I designed and tested a bogie that is all 3D printed plastic, with contact strips etched from brass, but they were not strong enough. I'm currently testing a combination of metal sideframe + plastic 3D printed parts. However, the new resin 3D printer (see below) will be useful in this effort as well--I have already revised the one-piece bogie that will accept "wiper" contact strips on the drawing board and it's far stronger than the previous version. </p><p><b>M Scale White Pass & Yukon Layout:</b> Several projects are underway in this category, lead by the WP&Y test layout , which is starting to really take shape. The layout is divided into two halves, separated by a scenic divider. One side will be a representation of the first several miles of mainline track climbing along the Skagway River, the opposite I am thinking I will do a version of the Skagway Shops. The mainline side has basic landforms in place, primarily the sheer cliffs the ROW was carved into around mile 7. I'm using rubber rocks from <a href="https://cripplebush.net/index.htm" target="_blank">Cripplebush Valley Models</a> and I must say I really like them. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkXioivQTOXgzf_zlM8dSgIrJ5RzdhGwqhTeryNntTDADx67LuxXjCsCHuHqidQD49QARdEXk-rDo1S2SdN_UzS9yue-JQv6Vl7RRSKOFvRFf_ETR_-hpNe7logYLa02xwt86IAgqw5Q1R7WkMrJ52_63_V4dPCLv9B_Sdbw6dvUSIEvmv4kmTU6J/s2016/IMG_1433.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkXioivQTOXgzf_zlM8dSgIrJ5RzdhGwqhTeryNntTDADx67LuxXjCsCHuHqidQD49QARdEXk-rDo1S2SdN_UzS9yue-JQv6Vl7RRSKOFvRFf_ETR_-hpNe7logYLa02xwt86IAgqw5Q1R7WkMrJ52_63_V4dPCLv9B_Sdbw6dvUSIEvmv4kmTU6J/s320/IMG_1433.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>Bridge 7B will span the small gully in front of the rock face. While scratch-building from styrene is an option, I decided to 3D print this (Shapeways). The bridge track has closer-spaced ties, so I cut the web off a section of ties, slid them closer, and glued some cut styrene ties into the gaps. This will represent a section of bridge ties. Here's the whole assembly, including the cast retaining wall with steel beam reinforcement, and abutments. The base will come off prior to installation.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgr1EC76W4Ip_b7_vj0OIMl3ZCUjaUrjLhH7chmWXfLHdg2IBfCOHAOP4MYIp7N9dK2MHnsrb2NG8VXkDIimk8EnLygIHiCre5mPOlQyaBlDgZILXRosw4em49QxbTJfCAPhAhaAJZ3lfXukPfKee30I-7hjU4tRoIPXaeZnVtz7Jv5ZrEk5Si2u3/s4032/IMG_1137.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgr1EC76W4Ip_b7_vj0OIMl3ZCUjaUrjLhH7chmWXfLHdg2IBfCOHAOP4MYIp7N9dK2MHnsrb2NG8VXkDIimk8EnLygIHiCre5mPOlQyaBlDgZILXRosw4em49QxbTJfCAPhAhaAJZ3lfXukPfKee30I-7hjU4tRoIPXaeZnVtz7Jv5ZrEk5Si2u3/s320/IMG_1137.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Since track laying is coming soon, I started thinking of practical issues, one of which is electrical pickup. There are connectors made for the TGauge flex track sections that I have modified to have power feeders, by soldering wire through the back on to the rail joiner.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigcEyOIJe0rxhMoMvkQsmSfce_rqq3VL6d6Q2cKqWqeaLfEc3HCICcYXy-H2eTu9QRMZsyvTluVuHqLeeGXulczp1j0MM5qvDv3tFyRSuS78MXLUzI_wxfxaTsIHZ0STverPwQXydjQgPDSsMkmU-iAxg1E9QxZzcyi1JEV3ZlSk6RwAS871N8vMrx/s2016/IMG_1385.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigcEyOIJe0rxhMoMvkQsmSfce_rqq3VL6d6Q2cKqWqeaLfEc3HCICcYXy-H2eTu9QRMZsyvTluVuHqLeeGXulczp1j0MM5qvDv3tFyRSuS78MXLUzI_wxfxaTsIHZ0STverPwQXydjQgPDSsMkmU-iAxg1E9QxZzcyi1JEV3ZlSk6RwAS871N8vMrx/s320/IMG_1385.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>I'm also modifying the track by removing the cast-on nail holes, which I won't be needing since I intend to glue down the track; This is really just for aesthetics and to let the ballast fill the gaps.<br /><p></p><p><b>M Scale Narrow Gauge Coach:</b> The WP&Y/C&S/D&RGW coach prototype is finished, and I'm quite happy with the result. It uses a 3D printed core with etched brass sides. The sides have 1/2 etch and the truss rods added, all of which turned out very nicely. I have several other shells/sides on the workbench, with varying designs of sides. I'm contemplating a Combine as well. Here's the sequence from design to finished model:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEhHBvcu_poYuJlluZOboCk5lxw57AzNSBIOBq8DcbCbGjlW3aBN-z0AmwYmf235ydevuLkdWpLD5p17Ftikml5D1XVn0f_rcgOYBwTytz_oPVe70puHv1D-_m8Ahe7OcK1fPNZ51pQr5abADMuZEGIrKvcWna90dlz3nFM1EJnUEPAyXI6UM9VuMi/s1300/WP&Y%20Coach(2).stl.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="1300" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEhHBvcu_poYuJlluZOboCk5lxw57AzNSBIOBq8DcbCbGjlW3aBN-z0AmwYmf235ydevuLkdWpLD5p17Ftikml5D1XVn0f_rcgOYBwTytz_oPVe70puHv1D-_m8Ahe7OcK1fPNZ51pQr5abADMuZEGIrKvcWna90dlz3nFM1EJnUEPAyXI6UM9VuMi/s320/WP&Y%20Coach(2).stl.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaPYIvdD50L_A5cIVHnpx5GaYW1EasKQzxE9Z_3-u-VAy3A6TQ5ASzihHTvU3OO6ITGL2SLSP3_ijlt_GwAe52gUQj3TLE9BI_zqzYy-QDd5a3JsoPboJgs9TtDbjMSUekMFavPUKlpZ9ktoszSrHxpWyA7gJnyiKtlsAGzK7Cr4oAM5lOjMiOSM4/s4032/IMG_1022.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlaPYIvdD50L_A5cIVHnpx5GaYW1EasKQzxE9Z_3-u-VAy3A6TQ5ASzihHTvU3OO6ITGL2SLSP3_ijlt_GwAe52gUQj3TLE9BI_zqzYy-QDd5a3JsoPboJgs9TtDbjMSUekMFavPUKlpZ9ktoszSrHxpWyA7gJnyiKtlsAGzK7Cr4oAM5lOjMiOSM4/s320/IMG_1022.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixcf-NaU3iWCipBQE7ojaqUzCU8pfUU12QOq6w9vo-UhupQ1yP3gYoipLX-Qpf_5ykEZ3vlWQXBFbN1rpCUS0bfGAlhNQJcFkniNeE9xcmpEw-cMejDgnr8VZQ4qLp4gPDAMy5-0fcjLVlq7_8f8aI8TsAitQPiSmDGyF4MFzG4odlORrGYpUhqJJi/s4032/image_6487327(13).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixcf-NaU3iWCipBQE7ojaqUzCU8pfUU12QOq6w9vo-UhupQ1yP3gYoipLX-Qpf_5ykEZ3vlWQXBFbN1rpCUS0bfGAlhNQJcFkniNeE9xcmpEw-cMejDgnr8VZQ4qLp4gPDAMy5-0fcjLVlq7_8f8aI8TsAitQPiSmDGyF4MFzG4odlORrGYpUhqJJi/s320/image_6487327(13).JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7swXGaIqnj9rFuAsxjGf81fagP4ndicIGrLiK3eZQzWoN9bYjdvsqlIAnyei3qTRS9vTkJafxhTN0laiRnPzRmaquStIKQ2V1rjFqrN3Vkt1bNPRJ0dm89_4H_BohAltup0Pu0imilYrbZLH9_5eKK3uVYHg63HyInm4Oxftk4VA-Q3PmMoixG6u/s4032/image_6487327(12).JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7swXGaIqnj9rFuAsxjGf81fagP4ndicIGrLiK3eZQzWoN9bYjdvsqlIAnyei3qTRS9vTkJafxhTN0laiRnPzRmaquStIKQ2V1rjFqrN3Vkt1bNPRJ0dm89_4H_BohAltup0Pu0imilYrbZLH9_5eKK3uVYHg63HyInm4Oxftk4VA-Q3PmMoixG6u/s320/image_6487327(12).JPG" width="320" /></a></div>One other note, take a look at those pine trees. These are the best small pine trees I've found and are from an Ebay seller <a href="https://www.ebay.com/str/scenerytime" target="_blank">Sky and Landscape</a>. Remember this is 1:300 scale. Highly recommended!<br /><p><b>WP&Y In Person:</b> In early May I was able to take a "prototype reference visit" to Skagway, Alaska and was able to check out the WP&Y in person. I highly recommend a visit to anyone: The area is beautiful, the town is fun, and there are enough activities to keep you busy for days. Visit the Red Onion and Skagway Brewing Co.! Of course I rode the WP&Y train to the summit and return, and it was absolutely spectacular. I was also lucky to catch one of the DL535Es still running, although they have been relegated to yard service now, with the arrival of several new NRE locomotives. Hmm.. might have to design one of those new beasties!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZFoSTs-TapFWVyfr0SKhsolkhPzdueMDC7XEnaz2SSvy44sa_AT90W7KVAq-UT9hUAdtAmMEalwScIoMOhOu8wgrZfCuhUzX25SVXjkE34pj51c6nfJWMLXo6cfaCOeQxRlJ9ALnnWlVtOPelkJzhd14ht8Dx5q3nu3ErtpqRfBevl3B1uo7LE93P/s2016/IMG_1272.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZFoSTs-TapFWVyfr0SKhsolkhPzdueMDC7XEnaz2SSvy44sa_AT90W7KVAq-UT9hUAdtAmMEalwScIoMOhOu8wgrZfCuhUzX25SVXjkE34pj51c6nfJWMLXo6cfaCOeQxRlJ9ALnnWlVtOPelkJzhd14ht8Dx5q3nu3ErtpqRfBevl3B1uo7LE93P/s320/IMG_1272.JPG" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Skagway locomotive shop buildings with a set of GE "Shovel Nose" Class 90 diesels and a pair of MLW DL535E diesels posed in front. May 2022.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKGaljI3j93gYMTJW5083g5A6xps3rOaqH2cHFK-wLf9pZF9mSdnkKW_Vni060T7u6lkE6gPDpK8AjL9rEy1jblR0MAgHXaZbdAoi7Lesdt7cj4KfycrMsBfJy-iiUGL-u45NlqYq5IGyd6NEp8jqVuCU9D-nGXx2XIJPbCEJP6jvDzQNC43gUECS/s1024/WPY%203004%203002%20MOW%20train%20at%20Skagway%20Shops%2005-16-22%20s(1).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1024" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlKGaljI3j93gYMTJW5083g5A6xps3rOaqH2cHFK-wLf9pZF9mSdnkKW_Vni060T7u6lkE6gPDpK8AjL9rEy1jblR0MAgHXaZbdAoi7Lesdt7cj4KfycrMsBfJy-iiUGL-u45NlqYq5IGyd6NEp8jqVuCU9D-nGXx2XIJPbCEJP6jvDzQNC43gUECS/s320/WPY%203004%203002%20MOW%20train%20at%20Skagway%20Shops%2005-16-22%20s(1).jpg" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A pair of brand-new NRE E3000CC-DCs on a MOW stone train at Skagway Shops, May 2022. </div><p></p><p><b>3D Printer In Da House: </b> After years of using Shapeways (and still intend to for some materials) I finally pulled the trigger and put down several $hundred on a resin SLA 3D printer. I opted for the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k, which offers 20um x 22um x 22um resolution. I also purchased a UV curing and washing machine to expedite production. To date, I have only done calibration prints and one test print (an E8A seen below) but so far am extremely happy with the results. I set up the printer by my spray booth and run the exhaust fan to vent the fumes--which really aren't that bad anyway TBH. Resolution exceeds Shapeways Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic material and is stronger, and it takes about an hour for a typical print (not counting post-processing.. clean, clean, clean!). I look forward to more of that rapid turn around (SW is usually a couple weeks at best) and finer material. I still have a bit of a learning curve to optimize my designs for resin SLA printing--mainly things like supports--but so far I am extremely happy. I may even have to start adding rivets to some of these models!<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3uGG1Lg3GDmwQ1HwB9YDcbl3Qo-RMPlIhb999UwTJzqZKR19UdM-lkqjD16dLShUysWYID8bYWN4DWILe0bnWhCHvs2Opa1o6AyAuu742cGHlADJVF9_oXDcyr56ZprMzahvdJC9j8deqPd7ehwYSWDvQ48MejPSHkgTlQYS93tpzdD1P-7a6W_P8/s2016/IMG_1417.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3uGG1Lg3GDmwQ1HwB9YDcbl3Qo-RMPlIhb999UwTJzqZKR19UdM-lkqjD16dLShUysWYID8bYWN4DWILe0bnWhCHvs2Opa1o6AyAuu742cGHlADJVF9_oXDcyr56ZprMzahvdJC9j8deqPd7ehwYSWDvQ48MejPSHkgTlQYS93tpzdD1P-7a6W_P8/s320/IMG_1417.JPG" width="240" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Until next time, enjoy the summer and happy T-Gauge Modeling! - Jesse<br /></p><p><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-35553685704516619522022-04-18T11:36:00.007-07:002022-04-18T11:55:20.709-07:00Springing into Spring<p><b>CCE Models Update:</b> After many months of "ho hum" traffic at the CCE Models website, I decided to just take it down. This isn't necessarily a permanent thing. However the site was just not generating revenue to the level needed. In the meantime, I have gone back to an ad-hoc style of selling, and may move to wholesale. I may also start going to train shows and selling there. In the meantime, if you're looking for something from my line of models, <a href="mailto:ccetrains@gmail.com">email me</a> and ask about it. </p><p>All that being said, I'm rather excited about the new White Pass & Yukon M-scale (1:300) models under development (see below), and there very well may be a decent market for them. <br /></p><p><b>WP&Y Rolling Stock: </b>The bulk of my time over the last few months has been spent developing 1:300 scale White Pass & Yukon RR equipment. There are two main items: an MLW DL535E locomotive, and a 45-foot coach.</p><p>The <b>DL535E</b> has gone through several iterations to ensure it fits on a chassis and is functional. The good news is it works, the bad news is the powered 6-axle chassis must be split in order to achieve correct truck spacing. It really isn't too complex a modification, but testing still remains. The DL535E is also designed to accept an LED headlight, and of course etched handrails are on the way. I'm also considering making a semi-permanently coupled set of these with power continuity through the lash-up, a la prototype MU connections.</p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaoaIyGgcLoDkSZ_maKOoVTZ_0dqmKwiARJGdIN9hNiw_QGNMTzg-N1za3hP8s4RMQKplQWQBYwQd4l64W5SZkAq9JwC-V4CocyOxZbjQFPpcvQC9qU8cbJ4EjD_Yv4embnjOCc_Iay3IE5SbJkrPRCLdegLDfL-muuiD55pvRSMJ1Gh89YHksWSEF/s2016/IMG_0953.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaoaIyGgcLoDkSZ_maKOoVTZ_0dqmKwiARJGdIN9hNiw_QGNMTzg-N1za3hP8s4RMQKplQWQBYwQd4l64W5SZkAq9JwC-V4CocyOxZbjQFPpcvQC9qU8cbJ4EjD_Yv4embnjOCc_Iay3IE5SbJkrPRCLdegLDfL-muuiD55pvRSMJ1Gh89YHksWSEF/s320/IMG_0953.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The <b>45-foot coach</b> incorporates a new design innovation, as it uses etched brass sides on a 3D printed core. Here's the overall design: <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKbZeyGdnofKWdF2WZZnURrjrn450Hab8AMgELgWQ3w13mhd_aTt_Dpx_pryWpRDOh29vB-VdfCt3AmjxWMT0RyRsbDuItevFrq-sXXWVzzRFNYlgrw8WfC_p64sFk_SoqySlFCZvuWYu4Ege7o5HkotXBWjzyvhae_80cA0T0RnVqw0gC0558lIzx/s1300/WP&Y%20Coach(2).stl.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="1300" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKbZeyGdnofKWdF2WZZnURrjrn450Hab8AMgELgWQ3w13mhd_aTt_Dpx_pryWpRDOh29vB-VdfCt3AmjxWMT0RyRsbDuItevFrq-sXXWVzzRFNYlgrw8WfC_p64sFk_SoqySlFCZvuWYu4Ege7o5HkotXBWjzyvhae_80cA0T0RnVqw0gC0558lIzx/s320/WP&Y%20Coach(2).stl.png" width="320" />E</a></div>...and the test 3D printed core, awaiting it's etched sides:<br /><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg52UwN5xKNChgVeh8D5j3Ryv5nMkwuzLI2zC1D5xn1M5w-_51Gj-VxNtzBn9EWaZHFYd6b7mDDezmGiSFW8ey8DalP6l6CIqRGSfVQcDBkNEOAAp1BekysUJ4sTtg5W_uQFwYrEwBm363b4Dp30NU75f_CBeK7B21JFvC07OxMyeqxyxWiouC3pEa/s4032/IMG_1022.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg52UwN5xKNChgVeh8D5j3Ryv5nMkwuzLI2zC1D5xn1M5w-_51Gj-VxNtzBn9EWaZHFYd6b7mDDezmGiSFW8ey8DalP6l6CIqRGSfVQcDBkNEOAAp1BekysUJ4sTtg5W_uQFwYrEwBm363b4Dp30NU75f_CBeK7B21JFvC07OxMyeqxyxWiouC3pEa/s320/IMG_1022.JPG" width="320" /></a> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">En route are sides for a WP&Y chair car (coach) and Colorado & Southern coach. This technique lends itself to T-gauge projects of various scales, and I can envision some other passenger cars or even structures. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Decals for all of the above are also in production.<br /></div><p></p><p></p><p><b>Test Layout:</b> A 2x4 foot module is being used to construct a T-gauge test loop. Well..it's actually more than just a test loop; One side will be a scenic WP&Y diorama, with a high rock wall, a short bridge, and a snow slide, representing a section of the railroad climbing out of Skagway, Alaska. This will give me a chance to practice my scenery techniques. The other side will be standard gauge, but I have not decided on any theme just yet. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnx1YI0eYGcYTkgiNuQgOEyA_aMTMWACBb8arSpBHrD5BvVVIeGLDe1JBBJZFNF8kDDgYWzXRfjlTRl9IXwWK2ROCVedJmcBxgIQXmlnpWHGgay5rbMJIRNlPiK1nQNmgjdtA2XIS2p8ZTPq6wBGqhU3KldffUzOqKI5a6qmxuTH9uUDyrBEEBYYGa/s2016/IMG_0905.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnx1YI0eYGcYTkgiNuQgOEyA_aMTMWACBb8arSpBHrD5BvVVIeGLDe1JBBJZFNF8kDDgYWzXRfjlTRl9IXwWK2ROCVedJmcBxgIQXmlnpWHGgay5rbMJIRNlPiK1nQNmgjdtA2XIS2p8ZTPq6wBGqhU3KldffUzOqKI5a6qmxuTH9uUDyrBEEBYYGa/s320/IMG_0905.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b>The track</b> on the test layout is being constructed with an experimental technique using Duck-Tape brand cork roll. This product is 1mm
thick and comes in rolls approximately 45mm wide. I cut it in 3mm-wide strips; curves were simply cut out to the correct radius because it does not bend sideways. The cork strip is then attached to the foam base with carpenter's glue, peel-off adhesive-side up. Once the glue dries, track can be stuck to the cork after peeling off the protective strip, after which painting and ballasting. It's cheap and not difficult and seems to work. Here's a test section "before and after". <p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPhvsBV4hk13pLoUHJ9HwKMjRb1BdOM5Vpam84UvY0V4kcOZ9aTAQjpZHHzIX3dWH6Ai8KZknnYiyxJxxWJ7nzkuQjU_JJUTXS8kX28l4IcIe9A39XMzqUC68BBoNIt1Ge5lvGZoBy8LlKC8M6UzbE1Hmkaox95eizk6Yi7HFgFdD4j_SELyywDTjQ/s2016/IMG_0883.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPhvsBV4hk13pLoUHJ9HwKMjRb1BdOM5Vpam84UvY0V4kcOZ9aTAQjpZHHzIX3dWH6Ai8KZknnYiyxJxxWJ7nzkuQjU_JJUTXS8kX28l4IcIe9A39XMzqUC68BBoNIt1Ge5lvGZoBy8LlKC8M6UzbE1Hmkaox95eizk6Yi7HFgFdD4j_SELyywDTjQ/s320/IMG_0883.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p> </p><p>While contemplating making some rock castings, I discovered some great "rubber rocks" available from <a href="https://cripplebush.net/" target="_blank">Cripplebush Valley Models</a> . I decided to try them, and so far I am very impressed. So much easier than carving or casting rocks in plaster!!<br /></p><p></p><p> <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcDgSxJzHeaMHuqxPbRxJXZiePprBJApNuu_nHIBUv9Vce79foDRIgo713pEwFFOFUdWa3PINGVvttY_dHGXcQsVIu0xXnzUqnT2DGm6SPX21p1XsTDZyS16KpqYFCxAxKl7_iKQu03-oop36XpK0sAAxZtriBGSiWs6qFU_sbwmsG76eOqzT6OYN/s4032/IMG_1026.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhcDgSxJzHeaMHuqxPbRxJXZiePprBJApNuu_nHIBUv9Vce79foDRIgo713pEwFFOFUdWa3PINGVvttY_dHGXcQsVIu0xXnzUqnT2DGm6SPX21p1XsTDZyS16KpqYFCxAxKl7_iKQu03-oop36XpK0sAAxZtriBGSiWs6qFU_sbwmsG76eOqzT6OYN/s320/IMG_1026.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>3D Printer:</b> The pre-ordered printer still has not been delivered, but they are shipping as was confirmed by a friend who has received his. I'm still waiting but in the meantime I picked up a cleaning/curing vat and some "Mean Green" cleaner to clean on the (hopefully) soon to come prints.</p><p><b>Narrow Body Worm Drive:</b> More<b> </b>testing was done on the GP38
prototype and some new etched parts for power pickup are on the way.
Once the GP is proven there are a host of locomotives I'm dying to get
under power. <br /></p><p>Well that's the latest and greatest, reach out to me if you have any questions. And until next time, keep on modeling!</p><p><i>-Jesse</i><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-80895587364758966992022-02-03T09:25:00.004-08:002022-02-03T12:11:21.712-08:00Welcome to the New Year<p>The new year is underway and several old and new projects are underway in the CCE Models workshop. As we hunker down in the cold short days working on models, listening to some music is always good, but I find watching live streams like <a href="https://www.youtube.com/c/VirtualRailfan" target="_blank">Virtual Railfan</a> or <a href="https://railstream.net/" target="_blank">Railstream</a> a great background for my modeling or design work.</p><p><b>89' Autoracks</b> I designed decal sets for AT&SF, Conrail, and Chessie (C&O/B&O/WM) and two test models. Here's the completed model decorated in the ATSF scheme. Look for these and the racks/PE on the website.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiTiwUf7vL7XR-i0F-xggu8IFFW3qy7Ht7YXU6VNv9SdifAAxs90G0ULVbV3kv0-LFACTQ22S1BtV5Lcko_HEB9_RrrPCt1QTq018nJeQ5qN8e4dA-l1VtY8GK40psThCcwSbqZog7hopOXqd4xuUQ_aaNqqW0yCFNJLplgeQYqVyXFp-D3alAGt9di=s3824" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2884" data-original-width="3824" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiTiwUf7vL7XR-i0F-xggu8IFFW3qy7Ht7YXU6VNv9SdifAAxs90G0ULVbV3kv0-LFACTQ22S1BtV5Lcko_HEB9_RrrPCt1QTq018nJeQ5qN8e4dA-l1VtY8GK40psThCcwSbqZog7hopOXqd4xuUQ_aaNqqW0yCFNJLplgeQYqVyXFp-D3alAGt9di=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>50' Plate F Boxcar </b>Here's the completed model with the photoetched door and decals in place. Again, the PE adds a level of crispness not found in the 3D printed model. I'm quite happy with how this turned out.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgFpCvvg-FbgCMz3W3FFW64OOGwC91VzmvfTpDiiinISjdNqHUptPsLViijFWHRkPTa1zLuOXXLvgWP0-CjRDd5dzzTsrRN14z5Gwn-PNKvnCrI-bTxuzSywLhZgkfO5weOSjUmNOERcaDy4CvyXoMP8nQEp5f4q5kdSKLYIokcEP6Jzq5kMc6vUFXZ=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgFpCvvg-FbgCMz3W3FFW64OOGwC91VzmvfTpDiiinISjdNqHUptPsLViijFWHRkPTa1zLuOXXLvgWP0-CjRDd5dzzTsrRN14z5Gwn-PNKvnCrI-bTxuzSywLhZgkfO5weOSjUmNOERcaDy4CvyXoMP8nQEp5f4q5kdSKLYIokcEP6Jzq5kMc6vUFXZ=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p><b>For the fans of British railways</b>: A test decal set of decals for Freightliner HIA hopper has been made in cooperation with <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/" target="_blank">TGauge.com</a>. Look for more news from them at some point soon. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh1Vf92P-JTOPM8jVpMD5u23XJ4DQj1I68EVvka5rEJKTusrsAMlLxbS_z8Op8qqzIufZvyoTR0SugXXInP4bum6aD8Eur1Pq_q2EmXYZMIeL-jZd5yG4JgQ7nQIQwRp1RDTUOTid3akf2CZ5PQbDebaJ-6o7M1c4Kl9H2pWmrwMJdbWCwRwL44dd1-=s1072" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="1072" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh1Vf92P-JTOPM8jVpMD5u23XJ4DQj1I68EVvka5rEJKTusrsAMlLxbS_z8Op8qqzIufZvyoTR0SugXXInP4bum6aD8Eur1Pq_q2EmXYZMIeL-jZd5yG4JgQ7nQIQwRp1RDTUOTid3akf2CZ5PQbDebaJ-6o7M1c4Kl9H2pWmrwMJdbWCwRwL44dd1-=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>I also refreshed and updated the Class 55 shell with better decals and updated the sideframes. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3dJ7971jXJ_Urn0erSNA9tG68WwtzmEJN5-p3CUyIVriVfssg03tXDekys325kCqZ3dzqmty2bTFpWRZP0hs9oiRwN48v4GEGiMVMMnoxeqXwbOUbTzhKB2rXUEMVfQfmTynCPkPj4k0-m2ZFN7xiEVEs6kI8GhwdPvXLN252kZiutvlogXzreXXK=s1051" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="526" data-original-width="1051" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh3dJ7971jXJ_Urn0erSNA9tG68WwtzmEJN5-p3CUyIVriVfssg03tXDekys325kCqZ3dzqmty2bTFpWRZP0hs9oiRwN48v4GEGiMVMMnoxeqXwbOUbTzhKB2rXUEMVfQfmTynCPkPj4k0-m2ZFN7xiEVEs6kI8GhwdPvXLN252kZiutvlogXzreXXK=s320" width="320" /></a></div>Having received a few of the new <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/451/0/co-co-motorized-chassis" target="_blank">6-axle powered chassis</a> I was able to produce fully-powered test model with the new decals.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXaj2eOGX6eNkgvYsmuekSrxyCqc-rm7VpeJwXjvSpiD_9JpY4pyp6oJgRsp2mmCfpTnCYsq7BUOqZpMXrnFgk09eRHNHOrjNctFAEQNXxW9ywxcpDmkBMGj6v4DAtEYxwnmUGS94IwfsMXN-h7duwgzJ2ho8t2cOwb6CIusK0_mTO2_CMh3H0cc6j=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiXaj2eOGX6eNkgvYsmuekSrxyCqc-rm7VpeJwXjvSpiD_9JpY4pyp6oJgRsp2mmCfpTnCYsq7BUOqZpMXrnFgk09eRHNHOrjNctFAEQNXxW9ywxcpDmkBMGj6v4DAtEYxwnmUGS94IwfsMXN-h7duwgzJ2ho8t2cOwb6CIusK0_mTO2_CMh3H0cc6j=s320" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p><b>M Scale / 1:300 Narrow Gauge Development:</b> As you will recall, I found the T-gauge mechanisms and track (wider spacing sleepers) perfect for 1:300 scale 3-foot narrow gauge. I call it "M scale". With the release of the new 6-axle powered mechanism, I am now planning a fully powered 6-axle diesel, the Alco DL535E. This was used on the White Pass & Yukon Railroad as well as the current Durango & Silverton Scenic RR.<b><br /></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh0kr8WMW7NL5fPw41HizjSwQqHIhKT5APyClrtaltgp6JpdSJDMjJkG_YO5jF-bS0RansqqaGEg7oZ7LYxgs5U1nzeJ7mizAU7G71MhgN5GT350h4Y9xX7W-763p9JaaiUPj6y3w2TZTrpoSjeqRH_LvRJ191q65DeN4jC51b35LUG-uQKvS7a55Ey=s915" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="319" data-original-width="915" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh0kr8WMW7NL5fPw41HizjSwQqHIhKT5APyClrtaltgp6JpdSJDMjJkG_YO5jF-bS0RansqqaGEg7oZ7LYxgs5U1nzeJ7mizAU7G71MhgN5GT350h4Y9xX7W-763p9JaaiUPj6y3w2TZTrpoSjeqRH_LvRJ191q65DeN4jC51b35LUG-uQKvS7a55Ey=s320" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>Layout Work:</b> I am in possession of two 2'x4' FreeMo style module kits. At least one will be devoted to a T-gauge layout. I haven't decided if it will just be a test-bed or a full layout. I do have some structures I designed for Princeton Jct. I'd like to test.. Hmm maybe a loop with one side with scenery and a divider between? </p><p><b>3D Printing:</b> I have used Shapeways for my 3D printing for many years--they have had excellent resolution printing and reasonable prices. I held off on the various resin "home" printers for various reasons. However--it was bound to happen--I have just reserved a new high-resolution mSLA printer which should arrive this spring. While there will be a learning curve certainly, I'm looking forward to a more rapid turn-around on models though and pushing the limits.. as always!</p><p><br /><b>Stay warm and Happy New Year to everyone, and feel free to email me with any questions.</b></p><p><i>-Jesse</i><b> </b><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> <br /><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-47299254030719713582021-10-21T08:34:00.005-07:002022-02-03T09:26:09.911-08:00Back to Work at the Car Shop<p>After moving, and all the chaos and chores associated, it's been a little hard to re-establish the routine of working on T scale. I finally got my work area organized along with the addition of a few new tools and organizational improvements. A <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YZASYO" target="_blank">giant cutting mat from Fiskars</a> is a really nice addition. A new airbrush was acquired, a Badger 105, aka "the Patriot". It supplants the old cheap Chinese Iwata knock-off, and a very nice <a href="https://midwestmodelrr.com/product/badmfw1051/" target="_blank">deal from Midwest Model Railroad Supply</a> gets you the airbrush plus a set of Badger acrylic RR colors and an undec HO car to practice on for less than $100. In my case it was an HO Athearn Genesis 60' boxcar. I have been contemplating an HO micro-layout to balance out the T-scale stuff, so maybe this will get me started.. The really nice thing is I have more storage space and much better organization (thank you Ikea) in the new workshop. To cut to the chase, I am back to working on my T-scale models! <br /></p><p>The first order of business has been getting the prototype of the 89' autorack done. The etch for the side/roof wrap finally arrived along with many N-scale signal bridges and a new 12-foot plug door for the 50' Plate F boxcar. The autorack wrap worked out essentially perfect! It comes in three pieces-- a roof and two sides. It was assembled by first placing the <i>unfolded</i> etch of the roof face-down on the workbench, then gluing the top section of the roof in place being very careful to center it properly. Once the glue on the top section was dry, each side was carefully folded onto the angled side of the roof by bending the body sideways. The sides were then glued in place. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPu7GuzwoFwtmk2eBHPDmGEb9NBSBDnrHS25RxsLZjPuoZSYepHj8ln28N6H6Bfui6L6g3qAM4I8IcJGFX1PaJwxSQLK3iFz-ZMX6s9aTj_oP47igkXcEslOEuvANH-AR0o3zmYQbt9Lk/s2016/IMG_0123.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPu7GuzwoFwtmk2eBHPDmGEb9NBSBDnrHS25RxsLZjPuoZSYepHj8ln28N6H6Bfui6L6g3qAM4I8IcJGFX1PaJwxSQLK3iFz-ZMX6s9aTj_oP47igkXcEslOEuvANH-AR0o3zmYQbt9Lk/s320/IMG_0123.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The body is hollow, so I added a bit of weight and assembled the frame/trucks. Note, since the body is hollow it has potential to be a powered car. For painting, I gave it a shot of primer from the rattle can (Tamiya Fine Primer), then masked the ends and frame and gave it a shot of Tamiya Bare Metal Silver (again rattle can) to see how it looks. The overall impression is exactly what I hoped for! <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6yCVyhICOBVAqWF1JIdIjg4JM68lGw-D2tIeHmSZCLOxi8SdCF6oT4JbOSxwENsmfU_oJolLETXkgiC8wCbGaWz3g0C75SxvJmSZ-1TIQgtj83G0x88tHxlbk5RwVGeWygUbFDX2aa_g/s2016/IMG_0192.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6yCVyhICOBVAqWF1JIdIjg4JM68lGw-D2tIeHmSZCLOxi8SdCF6oT4JbOSxwENsmfU_oJolLETXkgiC8wCbGaWz3g0C75SxvJmSZ-1TIQgtj83G0x88tHxlbk5RwVGeWygUbFDX2aa_g/s320/IMG_0192.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p>I'm now working on decal sets, which will include decals for the side posts--too small to hand-paint in my opinion. So far, I have a Santa Fe, Conrail, and Chessie set on the way--feel free to let me know any suggested roads. </p><p>I also prototyped the 12' etched plug door on the 50' Plate F boxcar. This is assembled on the 3D printed body (designed for the door) by gluing in place, then adding 9.5mm segments of 0.15mm rod for the pivot rods. Here's the body shot with oxide red primer. The detailing much smoother than the plain 3D printed doors. I think this one will get a BN scheme..<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXB6Rpa_OMnlxoEk_mvLRoE3nHPxS2jjeEw4XcpjdhddvzB3V4P0rH3emdObs-lmmaWLF4q_rwVedzPuXwBoIO0nA-tH5kAOhcyRs8LRuH2mwKUg1i_CEqulfBY829cvqv4h72gbhLFFc/s1921/IMG_0197.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1268" data-original-width="1921" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXB6Rpa_OMnlxoEk_mvLRoE3nHPxS2jjeEw4XcpjdhddvzB3V4P0rH3emdObs-lmmaWLF4q_rwVedzPuXwBoIO0nA-tH5kAOhcyRs8LRuH2mwKUg1i_CEqulfBY829cvqv4h72gbhLFFc/s320/IMG_0197.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> Anyway, that's the update for now, so until next time happy modeling!<br /><p></p><p> </p><p> </p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-49329585142952763582021-08-30T09:18:00.003-07:002021-08-31T06:01:43.363-07:00Late Summer Update<p>It's been a busy summer for me in many ways other than T-scale modeling. I must apologize for the sparse posts, but rest assured, my enthusiasm for tiny trains has not waned. I volunteered myself for an N-scale project involving the design and production of PRR signal bridges and CPL signals which grew to be a very large time consumer; I also designed a custom 1:72 scale A-20 "Havoc" decal set for my other modeling favorite, aircraft kits; And on top of that I relocated my primary residence. The dust has settled a bit and now getting back to some fun with T-scale!<br /></p><p>Following is a brief update on a couple projects that will be materializing in the next month or two, and some recently completed models.</p><p><b>Powered Mechanism:</b> Slowly progressing on this. The main mechanism is pretty well done, fits easily into the GP40 shell, however getting the powered trucks attached with decent electrical contact is the present challenge. Since some of the parts needed are etched, and etching lead time is at least a month, this tends to slow things down. Given that the first design is nearly always a test and requires revision and a new test, you can see how this takes a lot of time. <br /></p><p><b>89' Autorack: </b> Using my ever improving etching skills, I decided to give a try at an autorack using etched metal for the body panels. I designed it to wrap around a 3D printed car body. In fact, the 3D printed body looks pretty good all by itself and could, in my estimation, with paint and decals, make a pretty good representation of an autorack without the etch. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdu-hpTe0wZ7Mwet75Nz_E-cS5ZCUbg9YMRFAi1S8k-d7Pjz9qOALvZvYA4uiIqqEXjUeiib-sg3oRb6aiLmm0o0oASzw1Lh8bXYkbtL_8-8YPneQOxaQwTnEHF1csBa2zAgvIHcIHNBM/s2048/89+Autorack.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdu-hpTe0wZ7Mwet75Nz_E-cS5ZCUbg9YMRFAi1S8k-d7Pjz9qOALvZvYA4uiIqqEXjUeiib-sg3oRb6aiLmm0o0oASzw1Lh8bXYkbtL_8-8YPneQOxaQwTnEHF1csBa2zAgvIHcIHNBM/s320/89+Autorack.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /> None the less, the etched corrugated panels are in transit (along with the aforementioned contact strips for the mechanism) so we shall see how it turns out.<br /><p></p><p><b>More Plugs: </b> Since the double plug door for the 86' hi-cube boxcar turned out so well, I decided to make a 12' plug door to fit the Plate F boxcar. </p><p><b>Graffiti Decals:</b> To give model representation to some of the amazing art that adorns modern freight cars, I gave a shot at some decals in T (and N) scale. Of course Itchy and Scratchy -- the classic Simpson's cartoon characters-- had to be represented!</p><p>Here's the prototype:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuY5jIJjJKRcA1044e4CigrwDSbg6tC4F1hO49mc4Q2tWjn-oamTYCZzVODzyS5uhEH03e3PzLv5IwCBGiQ9yrj5wXXa6BCikHj5g_wJbCThnimA2iOgQiW5CLaPAGN63wcYAbR0wTmOU/s2048/P1042211R.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuY5jIJjJKRcA1044e4CigrwDSbg6tC4F1hO49mc4Q2tWjn-oamTYCZzVODzyS5uhEH03e3PzLv5IwCBGiQ9yrj5wXXa6BCikHj5g_wJbCThnimA2iOgQiW5CLaPAGN63wcYAbR0wTmOU/s320/P1042211R.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>And the T-gauge model: </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_P2vs1F7QuzbRg5zs7UVCNxVQ1K8iNx2ylO3Ll77aOveI37IcFcQGucM0EeOStd9EU4aO0MGIMbt1ohByHz2Z_ROQIAhNtouZN19o9OOA2hPHHzrbyy-XvgLdCgY9JHytKF9nYAWapWM/s2048/image_72192707%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_P2vs1F7QuzbRg5zs7UVCNxVQ1K8iNx2ylO3Ll77aOveI37IcFcQGucM0EeOStd9EU4aO0MGIMbt1ohByHz2Z_ROQIAhNtouZN19o9OOA2hPHHzrbyy-XvgLdCgY9JHytKF9nYAWapWM/s320/image_72192707%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Another recently finished model, the Canadian Grain Board cylindrical hopper. This utilizes etched brass for the ends, and turned out very nicely in my opinion. These are available at the <a href="https://www.ccemodels.com/copy-of-1-450-scale-4-bay-cylindrical-grain-hopper-3d-printed-kit/" target="_blank">CCE Models</a> website:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVkB-J1Mx9imlGc_BQI4XkJaVa8DhZVUkCUp7WSBtEVjfXho069r_QrM7PlBAkEWlqGMEYZxb81cmtw3cJ1SYMGakkRQJ7FPO__rokZzB3Hx0kAE5squY6nwOEdTUrESvBonEtiRuels/s2048/image_6487327%25288%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVkB-J1Mx9imlGc_BQI4XkJaVa8DhZVUkCUp7WSBtEVjfXho069r_QrM7PlBAkEWlqGMEYZxb81cmtw3cJ1SYMGakkRQJ7FPO__rokZzB3Hx0kAE5squY6nwOEdTUrESvBonEtiRuels/s320/image_6487327%25288%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p>Ok, that's all for now. Look for more frequent updates in the upcoming weeks and months. - Jesse <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-88128413234073322302021-06-10T10:28:00.000-07:002021-06-10T10:28:04.424-07:00Build Walk-Through: 1:450 Scale Penn Central X67 Class Boxcar<p>Last summer, the <a href="https://www.thecrhs.org/" target="_blank">Conrail Historical Society</a> magazine featured a series of articles about the Penn Central (and later Conrail and CSXT) X67 class of hi-cube boxcars used to transport auto parts. I had been wanting to make a <a href="https://www.ccemodels.com/1-450-scale-86-hi-cube-x67-boxcar-w-pe-details" target="_blank">hi-cube boxcar for CCE Models</a> and this excellent issue spurred me into action. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpD9H_kLraDwk_gO9Qfiixae9eXzTxtOwmU6_0rauYoNnp3RCxoZa7aLxkTgBMCiQHtEXIbR3CTLjSfVtfcV_BTJ3hNlblqaquw2B0R7eMCf-JZDkH7Kiol_E-8LIfsl1WooomQK9UHFA/s2048/2021-06-09+09.23.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpD9H_kLraDwk_gO9Qfiixae9eXzTxtOwmU6_0rauYoNnp3RCxoZa7aLxkTgBMCiQHtEXIbR3CTLjSfVtfcV_BTJ3hNlblqaquw2B0R7eMCf-JZDkH7Kiol_E-8LIfsl1WooomQK9UHFA/s320/2021-06-09+09.23.37.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Along with a history of the car, the article had drawings and dimensional data which I used (along with several reference photos) to design a 3D model. A test model turned out pretty nice, except the doors were a bit of a sore spot. Due to the small features such as the door rods, locking bar, etc. the 3D printing process made the doors look rough. I had been thinking about trying to make boxcar doors of photoetch brass, so here was my opportunity to test this approach. I adjusted the model design to omit the doors, and did the artwork for a photoetch double plug-door. A few weeks later I had my PE frets and was in business! </p><p> Here's a step-by-step summary of the build of the <a href="https://www.ccemodels.com/1-450-scale-86-hi-cube-x67-boxcar-w-pe-details" target="_blank">CCE Models 86' Hi-Cube Boxcar (PC class X67)</a>:<br /></p><p>Step one is to clean the model and prime it. I gave the boxcar and the PE fret a shot of my go-to primer, Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (gray).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhqCcyqNdzZXmQEAz4Qno2QChomBkQZbN0nHtxEZMawsWoPkHumMq_ArVfrbz0D_2GHQd5kJBowp4emqlqhEYsZDQVjSS_KiaWFFMOHu32nAADybD9rqCoQJeT20GspjHYpZa0kQQyudM/s2048/2021-05-20+09.23.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhqCcyqNdzZXmQEAz4Qno2QChomBkQZbN0nHtxEZMawsWoPkHumMq_ArVfrbz0D_2GHQd5kJBowp4emqlqhEYsZDQVjSS_KiaWFFMOHu32nAADybD9rqCoQJeT20GspjHYpZa0kQQyudM/s320/2021-05-20+09.23.51.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Next, I test fit and applied the PE door to the model using some Microscale Krystal Klear.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bJ7WI8ZjNELq8_TIvZCS-HKEcx9Nylp9Y3ukAQgt4Wu4HCe5d5Eo225Bi7S_QwfaDuQcVXVh6VU84GAidC7SoFNHxVM3kcgZFPPrwE2YflByx8wc41UVhaiLdzfYbG-1ZGeNrKGkQCU/s2048/2021-05-20+09.26.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5bJ7WI8ZjNELq8_TIvZCS-HKEcx9Nylp9Y3ukAQgt4Wu4HCe5d5Eo225Bi7S_QwfaDuQcVXVh6VU84GAidC7SoFNHxVM3kcgZFPPrwE2YflByx8wc41UVhaiLdzfYbG-1ZGeNrKGkQCU/s320/2021-05-20+09.26.58.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The door still needs the separate door rods (although you could omit them if you don't mind the lack of detail); I cut the four door rods from 0.15mm brass wire to a length of 9.0 mm. The door rods were applied using the small depressions in the door to align them properly and secured with a bit of thinned Krystal Klear. <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TvOUzOir7s5ZOS4Dav67N30DRoeFdz4O9TSGIC2uzLU94-o3qwX6P-JxioyphyWO3NslKw4CTsifJeujug2Vlpj6dVHp3JAcoPCkmqL7f9A0BAveK41rkmKkT_5P7navIgWvklHdAbw/s2048/2021-05-20+11.10.18-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1314" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TvOUzOir7s5ZOS4Dav67N30DRoeFdz4O9TSGIC2uzLU94-o3qwX6P-JxioyphyWO3NslKw4CTsifJeujug2Vlpj6dVHp3JAcoPCkmqL7f9A0BAveK41rkmKkT_5P7navIgWvklHdAbw/s320/2021-05-20+11.10.18-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Once the doors and the end brake wheel (also included on the PE fret) were applied, another coat of Tamiya gray primer was applied. This also helps seal the details to the model.<br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZX6NLz6Kj39H4quvyHz1maP3BruVjxyHWr76_PlBITBAVF_Mw9Z94yZPUmx5fLuy2XOHmOsFJPagyMH8ZirkuCcRAZm_3B2v0CirnplVDbe0EHCayIPaCDlYl93yGGPSTkmSKXNYMLgc/s2048/2021-05-20+11.34.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZX6NLz6Kj39H4quvyHz1maP3BruVjxyHWr76_PlBITBAVF_Mw9Z94yZPUmx5fLuy2XOHmOsFJPagyMH8ZirkuCcRAZm_3B2v0CirnplVDbe0EHCayIPaCDlYl93yGGPSTkmSKXNYMLgc/s320/2021-05-20+11.34.58.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The next step was the finish painting. I wanted to model the original car as used by the Penn Central seen below (photo from Hebners.net/Collection of<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"> Albert Phleep</span></span>, photographer unknown). The PC decals are included in the <a href="https://www.ccemodels.com/1-450-scale-pc-conrail-x67-boxcar-decal-set/" target="_blank">CCE Models X67 decal set</a> along with the Conrail markings.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.hebners.net/PC/pcCARS/pc295637L.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="397" data-original-width="800" height="159" src="https://www.hebners.net/PC/pcCARS/pc295637L.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <p></p><p>The roof appears to be unpainted on the original, and the doors are exposed aluminum as well, so the car was given a coat of a metallic silver from a rattle can. I used my favorite metallic silver, Spaz Stix 10009, "Ultimate Mirror Chrome"--highly recommended (it can usually be found on Ebay and Amazon). <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZdcCZ0-QChR_BOLxCTIK2sw9B8JQWHcrWfP-2m8CHAEzMr4NgkLKrNXWySvaQC5lsj5yKnbnt2QBNCWAbm1bS2Ht7xmdFssdLzTiiZVWHS_abXASs_paQiprbzaivY4WsXgZ08CgDX4/s2048/2021-05-21+08.23.15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOZdcCZ0-QChR_BOLxCTIK2sw9B8JQWHcrWfP-2m8CHAEzMr4NgkLKrNXWySvaQC5lsj5yKnbnt2QBNCWAbm1bS2Ht7xmdFssdLzTiiZVWHS_abXASs_paQiprbzaivY4WsXgZ08CgDX4/s320/2021-05-21+08.23.15.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Once the silver had set, I masked the doors and roof. I then airbrushed flat white on the top of the ends for the "excess height" band. This band was also masked, and finally the whole car was airbrushed using Polly Scale Penn Central Green.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgn1PdvZJHid6Qgzk59ymwl88_LLY4YP5yhRtty83jfwm4SLN5lrsMo8eKYgGnzTKimkTR4KS1SJqThRuNrGAdPRt9Dv0BsSe4EfVyas8JzK5_oPB1Q8rSH1QHrWtBgLU31CmxRUsrJA/s2048/2021-05-21+11.26.50.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUgn1PdvZJHid6Qgzk59ymwl88_LLY4YP5yhRtty83jfwm4SLN5lrsMo8eKYgGnzTKimkTR4KS1SJqThRuNrGAdPRt9Dv0BsSe4EfVyas8JzK5_oPB1Q8rSH1QHrWtBgLU31CmxRUsrJA/s320/2021-05-21+11.26.50.jpg" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Removing the tape revealed the car in it's basic paint scheme. I gave it two coats of Vallejo Gloss Varnish using the airbrush to seal the main finish and prepare for decals. <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <br /></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOc8BrsXyerXagmez963h4ISNamgHujaJhbuDINHyOq_nQlxWXDQnYa8rzFZequHUDTZPCAuMQW2ryWybHOjYmepQKxaI4DxTPruTnxYjxLxMHqwBKnHumSVSZjvjtFayuxT-qzmH7pg8/s2048/2021-05-21+12.02.02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOc8BrsXyerXagmez963h4ISNamgHujaJhbuDINHyOq_nQlxWXDQnYa8rzFZequHUDTZPCAuMQW2ryWybHOjYmepQKxaI4DxTPruTnxYjxLxMHqwBKnHumSVSZjvjtFayuxT-qzmH7pg8/s320/2021-05-21+12.02.02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The decals went on easily, and I used the reference photo to help position them correctly. MicroSet and MicroSol were used to get the decals to bond and settle to the surface, and after drying for a day, a coat of Vallejo Flat Varnish sealed them.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzG9nkuWMyfMBBPQODhiLHf7cy1W1F7Aq6AXdT0Vj-pACk_JeBvMiu3RO5E1y3zCfTBU3XW_VG6Vx9-C_Xfxzr88bg7t4PH7wfG6kKe9fe9iG61PCTe4QRuSpCJWfr6kuc376UXFN15Y/s2048/2021-05-23+16.20.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIzG9nkuWMyfMBBPQODhiLHf7cy1W1F7Aq6AXdT0Vj-pACk_JeBvMiu3RO5E1y3zCfTBU3XW_VG6Vx9-C_Xfxzr88bg7t4PH7wfG6kKe9fe9iG61PCTe4QRuSpCJWfr6kuc376UXFN15Y/s320/2021-05-23+16.20.56.jpg" /></a></div><p></p>The frame and trucks were primed with Tamiya oxide red primer, and I then used Mr. Color rattle can roof brown to paint them an
appropriate color for the trucks/underbody. I also gathered some self-adhesive weights I had in the scrap-box to give the model better stability. These came from an adjustable chassis set from TGauge.com<br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48dsheggEK05tVe5wPFUf3cp1GHcxnFoAciyyBWABI6gFx74_nkTqQcKH-w_l3uNuGxTzCC0pMOmtoqpfgo6cB5Fex2EW2z5J0FNJvRW2ifVC6SpJ2L7nTH98j_gL8euzlKXJVy0jkfY/s2048/2021-06-09+08.52.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48dsheggEK05tVe5wPFUf3cp1GHcxnFoAciyyBWABI6gFx74_nkTqQcKH-w_l3uNuGxTzCC0pMOmtoqpfgo6cB5Fex2EW2z5J0FNJvRW2ifVC6SpJ2L7nTH98j_gL8euzlKXJVy0jkfY/s320/2021-06-09+08.52.29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The trucks were assembled with <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/255/0/100-pin-point-wheelsets" target="_blank">Pin-Point Wheelsets from TGauge.com</a>, and attached using the press-fit pins that come with the model. The pins sometimes need to be slightly shaved/sanded (and/or the hole reamed out a bit) for the easiest fit.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbey_QT31to1CXLI0dpbpRCFnd7Yu-XQHU4YQ6frEdtj3a0ElElnVIc0t9RCSsIGeGisQmUvLu4l693VuqIpYy9NVxi93UAIsfA2Nrxa6VVfjWAmaYMp3M1NGY2I_NaX7w6QEmVKWqF5c/s2048/2021-06-09+09.01.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbey_QT31to1CXLI0dpbpRCFnd7Yu-XQHU4YQ6frEdtj3a0ElElnVIc0t9RCSsIGeGisQmUvLu4l693VuqIpYy9NVxi93UAIsfA2Nrxa6VVfjWAmaYMp3M1NGY2I_NaX7w6QEmVKWqF5c/s320/2021-06-09+09.01.36.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>Here is the assembled frame with wheelsets.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2qUxjhPLOdL042hxGNZxWgaN8kky0mZKTXUfBlBJ1Vm8Fc8hcUwWOLdHbJ5IohFdaCdnJe9T4WeoOcQCXe8knJSuz3FGYhwBrJ2Ly9SMqo2-vcWKQ2cMxXlh7ATA0wjxG2NnxANJY_0/s2048/2021-06-09+09.02.14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2qUxjhPLOdL042hxGNZxWgaN8kky0mZKTXUfBlBJ1Vm8Fc8hcUwWOLdHbJ5IohFdaCdnJe9T4WeoOcQCXe8knJSuz3FGYhwBrJ2Ly9SMqo2-vcWKQ2cMxXlh7ATA0wjxG2NnxANJY_0/s320/2021-06-09+09.02.14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p>The frame assembly is an easy press-fit into the body, to complete the model:</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYAwxdN-yYNrfhj-oNl5VA-vC4bnMsA3y6JZUTUYCGvTr_TMmrG-eTRouvNcaGcMP8c4UIeRmG2fAqEr1EzkyyKmSNhODWp3FuICcyazgWwsn8l2FO3GxqWQApTdbdSlBMHumCIsH6z4/s2048/2021-06-09+09.06.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjYAwxdN-yYNrfhj-oNl5VA-vC4bnMsA3y6JZUTUYCGvTr_TMmrG-eTRouvNcaGcMP8c4UIeRmG2fAqEr1EzkyyKmSNhODWp3FuICcyazgWwsn8l2FO3GxqWQApTdbdSlBMHumCIsH6z4/s320/2021-06-09+09.06.29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilSfH_5QI1acfJ36B-4DPUNJfSXseMzUQ46hlJYO991cqGw7_7Uu9ocZIjJqmZO-z9mtRxCbv9fWpPqJSGxXN7MwajK8Lt2XtME8EZGB7d_3VgzOuWNb-j0wGQj_xWE9hwK53jDGhvwcA/s2048/2021-06-09+09.06.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilSfH_5QI1acfJ36B-4DPUNJfSXseMzUQ46hlJYO991cqGw7_7Uu9ocZIjJqmZO-z9mtRxCbv9fWpPqJSGxXN7MwajK8Lt2XtME8EZGB7d_3VgzOuWNb-j0wGQj_xWE9hwK53jDGhvwcA/s320/2021-06-09+09.06.58.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>This build is really not difficult, even though very small. As always a magnifying visor is an absolute necessity. I like how the doors worked out and will be rolling out etched brass doors for all CCE Models with plug-doors. The use of etched brass for details also opens up some other possiblities such as an enclosed auto rack.. stay "T"uned! - Jesse <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-21795614021879083442021-05-14T09:44:00.001-07:002021-05-14T09:45:38.243-07:00Innovations and Inspirations<p>A mid-spring check-in seems due, so in no particular order here is an update of a variety of projects I've been working on.</p><p><b>CCE Drive/Powered Chassis Development:</b> This has taken about 50% of my time over the last couple months, and quite a lot of progress has been made towards meeting the goal of producing an <a href="https://jessestmodels.blogspot.com/2021/02/t-scale-power-evolution-beginning.html" target="_blank">in-house T-scale chassis</a>. After several iterations (I am up to version 8), it has evolved into a worm drive, both for simplicity's sake and space savings. I was successful in finding a very narrow low-voltage motor that fits inside the 3D printed US hood diesel, a GP38. Here's a v7 chassis in the GP38 (sans fuel tank) while being tested. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IS_nfXlu2Kp4v08mzKXWpYi-Tb9yGqFhTQL6m7Ay3x7czTnes5A0JRq7EBbjSxRGk21AdhZPRhgb5yBVNUcwH-CHJTzz7fglr4I7s3J0WortEY5pp-tDEEvL0rS26YQGjtUTbJ6G2X4/s2048/image_6487327%25283%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0IS_nfXlu2Kp4v08mzKXWpYi-Tb9yGqFhTQL6m7Ay3x7czTnes5A0JRq7EBbjSxRGk21AdhZPRhgb5yBVNUcwH-CHJTzz7fglr4I7s3J0WortEY5pp-tDEEvL0rS26YQGjtUTbJ6G2X4/s320/image_6487327%25283%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /> So far, early prototypes of both a GP38 and MP36 with powered chassis have been produced. The GP38 is the most refined set and the latest version on the v8 chassis is on the way from Shapeways currently. One of the nice things about the new chassis is the truck design (Blomberg prototype) does not require those blasted bogie attachment springs. The new challenge, however, is effective electric pick-up, but no worries--I have a plan.. <p></p><p>Other locomotives that have been test fit with the new chassis design include the AEM-7 and GG1 electrics. Both shells were previously designed and will require minimal adaptation to accept the drive. Once perfected, the CCE drive will open up a lot of doors for powered North American prototype trains. <br /></p><p><b>1:300 Water Tank:</b> I have been experimenting in Mn3 (1:300, 3-foot narrow gauge) and a desire to do a structure yielded this nifty little kit to build a<a href="https://www.ccemodels.com/1-300-scale-drgw-standard-water-tank-kit/" target="_blank"> Denver & Rio Grande "Standard" water tank</a>. Although there was a standard plan (and this model is faithful to it) often the prototypes varied a bit. But if you <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/xvo76Ag4GR9rL1wh7" target="_blank">go to South Fork, Colorado</a> today, you will find the prototype for this model. <br /></p><p>The "necessary innovation" on this model was using Archer resin decals for the tank straps. 3D printing is great, but cylinders are a trouble spot due to the layering, and thin details like the straps -on- a cylinder are even worse. The initial test model was great <i>except for the tank</i>. I got the idea of eliminating the printed-on straps and sanding it a bit to improve it's smoothness, and then applying Archer "seam line" decals. I happened to have these decals around as a by-product of an N-scale etched signal bridge project. The "seam line" decals seen here being applied, which are 0.13 mm thick, worked great! </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFh4LgiWVwUsVcWmzmpjeROgjg-y_nCwcvdLfByWCr3BJ3wy53u8N0TooL7pdBYzaNJq5CU2qp5oK8jXsPpc0h6QtOdhQ4ArAKQ0z6RlgqLgy0hVxQNt095gM-53U-UMP7E-aik-NrqM8/s2016/image5.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFh4LgiWVwUsVcWmzmpjeROgjg-y_nCwcvdLfByWCr3BJ3wy53u8N0TooL7pdBYzaNJq5CU2qp5oK8jXsPpc0h6QtOdhQ4ArAKQ0z6RlgqLgy0hVxQNt095gM-53U-UMP7E-aik-NrqM8/s320/image5.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p> Here are the components primed. <br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCLCNzu8xFLC45Zwil1r7V8xFUj5MEv1KidimcA6gOHabymd2R2O_ap9kljnie-zHSxdXyzu7eAfo7QeDSkeyhEWBpPjuZ-np8Ct3ONUGnzf2kGvD7zXnxo7iI6L-ZuuoJ6Sa8ip3OUw/s2016/image3%25281%2529.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHCLCNzu8xFLC45Zwil1r7V8xFUj5MEv1KidimcA6gOHabymd2R2O_ap9kljnie-zHSxdXyzu7eAfo7QeDSkeyhEWBpPjuZ-np8Ct3ONUGnzf2kGvD7zXnxo7iI6L-ZuuoJ6Sa8ip3OUw/s320/image3%25281%2529.jpeg" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And the finished model painted and decals applied. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7UedxUbkcNVOcs3tUY_ptQrAhXh_XfkrfOYYSpIwYK7UZ77gJBILz6qXOMFPa6Xhe-PJZtCdsiOudSm4TB3ufSA0xwMSRlHfs-YPe6KgcLr9rqprTXMCPoTmvqoidAOgkKB0chgeskM/s2048/image_6487327%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim7UedxUbkcNVOcs3tUY_ptQrAhXh_XfkrfOYYSpIwYK7UZ77gJBILz6qXOMFPa6Xhe-PJZtCdsiOudSm4TB3ufSA0xwMSRlHfs-YPe6KgcLr9rqprTXMCPoTmvqoidAOgkKB0chgeskM/s320/image_6487327%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b>PS 5344 Boxcar and BKTY 154675 Graffiti Decal Set: </b> Some things just beg to be modeled. As a long-time fan of the Simpsons, when I saw this boxcar adorned with our favorite cartoon duo, "Itchy and Scratchy", I just had to get a photo. </p><p> <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE0nKP-kdkmFOyv3Cwi0PWhKljAUgSxpv8e0pCtlGdHKV0CKZW1aKeya2MsxPlnUVF1dVcx0AJrZ9OSI7pwYsjkRANM2P2B0jh0DAmYL7bZOxfgS5xPVfR2cAXmXDyX26PBe1qw_tTgl0/s2048/BKTY154675.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1366" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE0nKP-kdkmFOyv3Cwi0PWhKljAUgSxpv8e0pCtlGdHKV0CKZW1aKeya2MsxPlnUVF1dVcx0AJrZ9OSI7pwYsjkRANM2P2B0jh0DAmYL7bZOxfgS5xPVfR2cAXmXDyX26PBe1qw_tTgl0/s320/BKTY154675.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>And after some thought, I decided I wanted a model. Well, two issues presented themselves: First, I didn't have the appropriate boxcar model, and second, I didn't have any way to paint that graffiti. I have done plenty of decals but never a graffiti image, so I figured I would this would be a good learning experience. Using the photo as a guide, I traced the image using my vector graphics editor, Inkscape. The PS boxcar came together nicely as well using my stand-by 3D editor, TinkerCad. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOmDx1y14k3V3GyyL37hg4OY2VGKqA-uHn1pCD_3R9qahyK6nMD7OkscrmB3KSnPryEnf2yM9nGb9-cembkTTVdkA9wxhq7sEYfPa7V1iu8elFXUeMjOhV4EBDn7mkGtXD4rHe7-lD9c/s995/CCE+Models+1_450+Sangre+Galaxe+Graffiti+Decal.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="995" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOmDx1y14k3V3GyyL37hg4OY2VGKqA-uHn1pCD_3R9qahyK6nMD7OkscrmB3KSnPryEnf2yM9nGb9-cembkTTVdkA9wxhq7sEYfPa7V1iu8elFXUeMjOhV4EBDn7mkGtXD4rHe7-lD9c/s320/CCE+Models+1_450+Sangre+Galaxe+Graffiti+Decal.png" width="320" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div> I'm currently waiting for the test boxcar from Shapeways, and the decal sheet is ready
to be printed. I'll probably make this available in N scale as well. Speaking of which, there will be a few N scale items added over at CCE Models. More on that next time...<p></p><p><b> </b></p><p><b>Models and New Products in the Pipeline:</b></p><p>--Canadian Grain Board Cylindrical Hopper (with etched end railings/ladders and several different decal sets). ETA June '21</p><p>--CalTrain MP36 Decal Set </p><p>--Etched brass plug doors (3D printed plug doors make me sad.. test frets are on the way!)<br /></p><p> <br /></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p> <br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-12325879034613207142021-02-17T09:15:00.047-08:002021-02-17T11:55:48.077-08:00Drive Evolution--The End of the Beginning<p><br />After years of building T scale locomotive models that looked good but were mostly dummies due to the limitations of the available powered chassis, last fall I decided it was time for the development of a CCE Models powered chassis. Below is a summary of where I've gotten over the past few months. <br /></p><p>The original T-gauge models from K.K. Eishindo were all car-body designs, as have been the vast majority of subsequent models. They were EMU's like the <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/65/0/kiha-40" target="_blank">KIHA-40</a>, and later TGauge.com came out with their beautiful <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/393/0/class-67-motorised-locomotive" target="_blank">Class 67</a> diesel. Common among these designs is that they allow space for the 4mm diameter motors within the shell. The only exception has been a toy-like "GP8" which is quite out-of-scale because they widened the model to accommodate the motor. <br /></p><p>Pulling power isn't very good--most trains need a ratio of about one powered unit to every 2-3 pieces of rolling stock. All trains benefit from having two powered units regardless--two help smooth out power pick-up issues on track and wheels that become dirty rather quickly. </p><p>In addition, with the available stock chassis there are limited arrangements of truck bolster spacing, and the trucks themselves are based loosely on the Japanese EMU prototype--not applicable to modelers of the US or Canada in the 1980s, or Colorado in the 50s! Over time, several longer chassis have come from China, the motors have gotten better, and pulse controllers have made the slow speed performance better. But there's still room for improvement. </p><p>I wanted to design a powered chassis to fit my models properly with regard to truck bolster spacing as well as having prototypical truck appearance. The coup-de-grace would be one narrow enough to fit in hood diesels. I also wanted it to be a good running design. So here were my design criteria:</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Could fit in American designs--both hood and car-body locomotives.<br /></li><li>Flexible design to fit different truck spacing.</li><li>Prototypical looking trucks. </li><li>Good running. <br /></li><li>Relatively easy to produce.</li></ul><div><p><b>Groundwork: </b> 3D design and printing of chassis was clearly a great option for this project, offering the ability to print small quantities at reasonable cost, and adjust designs on-demand. Having gained considerable experience over the course of making scores of 3D printed models, I felt up to the challenge. So in the fall of 2020 I took an old chassis, my trusty vernier caliper and ruler and drafted a basic copy of the existing T-gauge chassis in my 3D design software. I became very familiar with the stock drive arrangement, which uses a crown gear at a right angle to the motor
shaft drive gear, and multiple reduction gears to transmit power the drive wheels. <br /></p><p><b>Frame Fundamentals:</b> The chassis frame is the main adjustable component in the exercise, and moreover the one I could most easily fabricate. I needed to be sure the 3D printed materials would be sufficient to withstand regular use but precise enough for micron-size adjustments in gear alignment. I reasoned the motor and drive gears could be easily scavenged from donor chassis for the time being; they were readily available and proven. In addition, if needed, other gears could be sourced through various suppliers of micro-airplane and RC car models. I made a test print of the chassis using Shapeways Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic and it was definitely robust enough to handle plenty of use. In fact, the acrylic material seems to have a self-lubricating quality to it. <b> </b></p><p><b>Shortened Chassis Development: </b> To meet one of the key design criteria--that of fitting different length carbody units--I needed to be able to shorten the chassis. Lengthening shouldn't be an issue: just move the power plant/drive train. I adjusted the chassis design using the principle developed by the modeler David K. Smith, who about a decade ago kit-bashed an Eishindo chassis to make it short enough to fit in a T-scale EMD F7 or F3 carbody. Using the text of his original article (the pictures were lost when his computer crashed!) I modified the 3D design accordingly and after a couple adjustments <a href="https://youtu.be/VTc40SPD4bk" target="_blank">found it worked</a>... rather nicely actually. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9TwG2PurymRVf_DPs0Z7YEfmQPNl_vxWZf8KUGtHeiNtkPfeDGAdl9RZ7HKjr4f1oUDwwjqLMTFahpidCWOrrtZxUm8PN0gHx3Eu-GogQgFWo1ugGIOLn-KcWyeMcMjOpiLxDiM6XXeQ/s884/image_6487327.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="820" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9TwG2PurymRVf_DPs0Z7YEfmQPNl_vxWZf8KUGtHeiNtkPfeDGAdl9RZ7HKjr4f1oUDwwjqLMTFahpidCWOrrtZxUm8PN0gHx3Eu-GogQgFWo1ugGIOLn-KcWyeMcMjOpiLxDiM6XXeQ/s320/image_6487327.JPG" /></a></div>As of this writing (2/17) this is where the "proven" technology stands. The printed chassis is shorter than stock, and utilizes the gears and motor from a donor chassis, and it runs well. The test chassis has truck bolster centers of 19.5mm, or 29 ft. in 1:450--so in theory any carbody diesel greater than that is possible. Here's a <a href="https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1J-JZSMELuVlErw1WdPsn2bMPN1eDWqdEAY6RjvCura4/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">list of truck bolster centers</a> for reference.<br /><p></p><p></p><p><b>Truck Development:</b> While working on the shorter chassis I also designed a set of Blomberg trucks that will accept the stock contact strips that would be a one-for-one replacement to the old Japanese prototype trucks in either the printed or stock chassis. It stands to reason that if these models can be validated, so could CCE Models' AAR-B trucks, or others--even 3 axle. Beta models of the Blomberg trucks are currently being printed so I should be testing these within the next few weeks.<br /></p><p><b>Hood Width/Worm Drive Chassis Experiments: </b> As noted, the shorter chassis design above is confined to use with carbody/cab locomotives
that have the needed scale width for the mechanism. The limiting factor is primarily the 4mm diameter motor which sits above the
frame. The width of the standard powered chassis is 5mm (or nearly 7.5ft in scale). A hood diesel like the GP40 has a long hood width of around 6 ft in scale (4.6mm) or about 0.5mm wider than the standard chassis itself. </p><p>How to configure the chassis to fit in a hood diesel is a real challenge, and several ideas came up. Use etched brass for hood sides? I ruled out etching for the time being because it would be complicated and would be difficult to assemble well. Source a motor with a smaller diameter and narrow the chassis? It sure would be nice if there were affordable motors less than 4mm diameter but for now they don't exist. </p><p>However, I<i> might </i>have come up with a solution utilizing a worm drive and a different motor configuration. If my worm drive concept works it should also allow for further reduction in length of the chassis, perhaps even allowing switchers such as the SW1200 to be powered. Another potential advantage of the worm drive is it may be more powerful and/or smoother-running. That remains to be seen, however.. I have also speculated on using a flywheel or "keep alive" circuit, although pulse power might make the latter impossible. A worm drive certainly has potential use in steam power..<br /></p><p>There are sure to be additional developments and ups-and-downs, but I'm determined to get this done. And rest assured all of these designs will be available from <a href="https://www.ccemodels.com/" target="_blank">CCE Models</a> as soon as I'm confident they are reliable and of value to other T-scale modelers. </p><p>Until next time, <br /></p><p>-- Jesse<br /></p></div>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-74889119214290774402020-12-21T13:02:00.005-08:002020-12-22T09:02:01.848-08:00"T"ools of the "T"rade<p> I wanted to pass along some of my favorite tools and tips acquired over the several years of T-scale modeling. Hopefully you will find this of use in producing high-quality models with as little frustration as possible. One note: I don't endorse any particular brands, unless noted. <br /></p><p><b>Ultrasonic Cleaner:</b> Since most of my models are 3D printed, and the printing process at my preferred service bureau (Shapeways) leaves a waxy residue, all models must be thoroughly cleaned before assembly and painting. Shapeways does clean the models, but invariably there is still some gunk on them when they arrive. Some modelers use the solvent Bestine to further clean models, but I don't really need this, preferring not to stink up the house or dip my mits into toxic fluids -- Instead I utilize an ultrasonic cleaner with a warm bath of water with a drop of dish-washing detergent. The cheap ultrasonic cleaner I have, I found used on Ebay for $20, and is the kind used for jewelry. No need to go high-end here. I give models a couple cycles in warm soapy water, once in warm clean water, then a nice rinse-- over a bowl stretched with old panty-hose to catch any parts that might fall off. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuojVUpL0n4KlSLfRytQ_x8KiulVf2dURjKBw6APZ6NhO9pyuezNtg5Dv9aATSebCWm1vErLvXtrrIH_9VWk6E8Cu7W2LFw6vdkiIb48kXLMo6U9CPqetEkorPbHTN4lBX9TljY2r-WFY/s2048/2020-12-21+12.46.33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuojVUpL0n4KlSLfRytQ_x8KiulVf2dURjKBw6APZ6NhO9pyuezNtg5Dv9aATSebCWm1vErLvXtrrIH_9VWk6E8Cu7W2LFw6vdkiIb48kXLMo6U9CPqetEkorPbHTN4lBX9TljY2r-WFY/s320/2020-12-21+12.46.33.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b>Micro Fiberglass Brush Tool:</b> After I clean a model, I will usually give it a coat of primer--and then inspect the surface for more gunk that may not have come off, or just layering/artifacts from 3D printing. There is typically a bit of clean-up and sanding needed, and the micro fiberglass "pen" is really great for cleaning and abrading small surfaces and getting into tight areas. One word of caution--these tools shed fiberglass fibers, so wear a mask and keep a vacuum close-by to get rid of the nasty little hairs. I'm sure breathing them in isn't good for anyone.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0T1qyeEnA-TNyrrn6M_BdHvy8cZheEYXFdKUoTvruZOIBZn6c4eTIhsAi4Do0IZuSmM8MngGwcP2TSEHw2Nib9YoWm8UhoVRV3a4j27l9-dNQxtzI4ULaeAmma7ByDMyy-a2se6XFRo/s2048/2020-12-21+12.47.17.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge0T1qyeEnA-TNyrrn6M_BdHvy8cZheEYXFdKUoTvruZOIBZn6c4eTIhsAi4Do0IZuSmM8MngGwcP2TSEHw2Nib9YoWm8UhoVRV3a4j27l9-dNQxtzI4ULaeAmma7ByDMyy-a2se6XFRo/s320/2020-12-21+12.47.17.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><b>Microbrushes: </b> These are useful for many things; odd paint jobs, cleaning airbrushes, applying decal solvent.. Beware: Some of the cheaper brands use an adhesive to adhere the bristles that is susceptible to solvents--this can be a problem if you use with lacquer paints or other solvent-based paints or coatings; I use acrylic almost exclusively so don't worry about it much, but still prefer the "original" microbrush if you can find them.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJtcZduTOJIzHIfbo0fVWIeUhSe_035h2-dEp2mRGG_c7PVi-mA2aRsWpX-CzZ7FSYapx07b5DcQglogoA4-OyBI8QnRgGwRdPoG9Tyy3AQul2_Z9Yu-OydqcoPxq7XrpWAAh6Fmi_M0/s2048/2020-12-21+12.47.40.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaJtcZduTOJIzHIfbo0fVWIeUhSe_035h2-dEp2mRGG_c7PVi-mA2aRsWpX-CzZ7FSYapx07b5DcQglogoA4-OyBI8QnRgGwRdPoG9Tyy3AQul2_Z9Yu-OydqcoPxq7XrpWAAh6Fmi_M0/s320/2020-12-21+12.47.40.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>Disposable Pipettes:</b> Mainly for use in painting and mixing for the airbrush--get your ratio of thinner to paint accurate. Get a big bag for a few dollars, they will last for a long time. Also useful for micro-basting chicken breasts in the pot.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMYQODTBDMR7JLpJ8Fls_AoU3ud_398OnGPLnvPYt7vKE-YIy0J4cJGvZdjSA_MfDmHzYC4OeH442NK7lpFTZUyn6AEDhBZtfq542vkTdCc6zpZljERc4Og5psQ4PWUoRqpWNuFpUFQlo/s2048/2020-12-21+12.48.20.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMYQODTBDMR7JLpJ8Fls_AoU3ud_398OnGPLnvPYt7vKE-YIy0J4cJGvZdjSA_MfDmHzYC4OeH442NK7lpFTZUyn6AEDhBZtfq542vkTdCc6zpZljERc4Og5psQ4PWUoRqpWNuFpUFQlo/s320/2020-12-21+12.48.20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>Etch Bending Jig:</b> Photoetched brass or steel parts (PE) can be a bit of a pain to get looking correct if you don't use one of these to bend them. They help keep bends straight/square and even along long surfaces. I wouldn't even try doing the hopper ends without one of them! You can also use them to flatten out a piece that has gotten bent, press-style. This is a small one made in China I found on Ebay, good enough for T-scale; You may want a bigger one if you model in other scales as well.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwocK3t9cogl7nnc_QZTF4p7Jt9ism_hynXjFmThd6uwtky3Ek7GzTEuOdSUYsay5TOMdVBPNCN7uoAqaxlph_m2w1xVhh26P6FSAGLhr9z34oYubDpSr4uX0Lnp_do7K4Xjf0KxfOGys/s2048/2020-12-21+12.47.02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwocK3t9cogl7nnc_QZTF4p7Jt9ism_hynXjFmThd6uwtky3Ek7GzTEuOdSUYsay5TOMdVBPNCN7uoAqaxlph_m2w1xVhh26P6FSAGLhr9z34oYubDpSr4uX0Lnp_do7K4Xjf0KxfOGys/s320/2020-12-21+12.47.02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>While we're talking about PE, definitely get a pair of <b>PE snippers</b> like these by Xuron. They allow you to trim PE close to the details. Another tip is to use the steel base of the bending jig as a solid surface upon which to precisely trim PE with a hobby knife (expect the blade to get dulled quickly however). Trimming on the solid surface will keep the PE from getting deformed. <br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGdvvMLkK438JCJTHYla3L_Vnu6oGq3QD_3Bk9gLrbAcz70lmvN_BHpY-59jgZILZeO7Bm3nWdYmM-lClTgqocZsaMRCCJPFbdtEgzD5C68ZusmdJWZYxtCNBYwrcN6TX-gjUL93SBhE/s2048/2020-12-21+12.49.02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMGdvvMLkK438JCJTHYla3L_Vnu6oGq3QD_3Bk9gLrbAcz70lmvN_BHpY-59jgZILZeO7Bm3nWdYmM-lClTgqocZsaMRCCJPFbdtEgzD5C68ZusmdJWZYxtCNBYwrcN6TX-gjUL93SBhE/s320/2020-12-21+12.49.02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>Toothpicks:</b> Ahhh yes, the toothpick is indispensable! Use them for moving decals around, for holding models for handling (as pictured), for making coupler pics, for applying glues, martinis, and a million other uses. Get a big box for a buck a your local grocery store.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnsoJnt4LlP3l62jOfWYVhWT0G8fPrsEnzC8Q4JD8Io6qlPcHOOAkmU6vNZaFFZwJHTnO_vUxNsaDGrMaDUMGExI1aRMWnbtS1t_EU0s1MY73TYfwSFzPWIl3dCvCYjvdbuRI8m9WA6U/s2048/2020-12-21+12.47.46.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnsoJnt4LlP3l62jOfWYVhWT0G8fPrsEnzC8Q4JD8Io6qlPcHOOAkmU6vNZaFFZwJHTnO_vUxNsaDGrMaDUMGExI1aRMWnbtS1t_EU0s1MY73TYfwSFzPWIl3dCvCYjvdbuRI8m9WA6U/s320/2020-12-21+12.47.46.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p> </p><p>In other news: I'm due for an update on new models and projects and will be posting that in the near future. Many exciting projects from rolling stock to structures, too many to mention here. In the meantime, I hope all my fellow T-scale enthusiasts have a great and safe holiday, and let's hope Santa or a Festivus pal leaves you a 1:450 train under the tree! - Jesse<br /></p><p></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br />Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-53475893186377283522020-11-06T11:49:00.002-08:002020-11-06T12:04:39.408-08:00Long Time Comin' / Long Time Gone<p>It's been a busy couple of months and I have been remiss in my Blog posting.. my apologies. By means of explanation, I was occupied with some exciting new developments in the CCE Models business as well as the on-going T-gauge model design and build activities. </p><p> </p><p><b>CCE Models Business Improvements: </b><br /></p><p><a href="www.ccemodels.com" target="_blank">CCE Models</a> now has an official website with full e-commerce capability! The old way where I was selling from an "item list" posted on Facebook, with emails traded, etc. was really cumbersome both for the customer and myself. Along with that, I changed a major part of CCE Models' sales strategy. Now, instead of selling 3D printed models, we sell the design itself--more specifically, a license to use the STL design file which you download and use to print your own models. It save a TON of back-and-forth between the customer, myself and Shapeways (my preferred service bureau). It also allows the customer to make unlimited prints of the design. And you can print from your own printer if you have one, although the designs are optimized for Shapeways. So if you want 20 boxcars you buy one design and print as many as you like (as long as they are for your own use of course.) Break a coupler? Just cut off the coupler design and print some of them.</p><p><a href="www.ccemodels.com">CCE Models</a> still sells actual products too, and the range has been expanded to include photoetched (PE) detail kits and decals. I do keep most of these products on hand as well, so there are few delays compared to the old system.</p><p>I opened the site about a month ago and have not aggressively marketed it, but then again, the market is pretty small anyway. But here's a bonus for the readers of the blog--a coupon code good for 10% off an order of $25 or more: <b>TBLOGREADER</b> Coupon is good from 11/6/20 for the next 30 days! </p><p> </p><p><b>New Designs: </b></p><p>It's been so long since I posted here that I can't remember what the last new design <b> </b>I posted here was... but here's what's new by way of explanatory pictures.</p><p></p><p><b><span> </span>1:300 scale (Mn3) D&RGW Long Caboose</b>. This comes in two versions--one with a peaked roof, and one with a rounded roof. It also has an interior, complete with pot-bellied stove! Also the Long Reefer was updated. This model can conceal a powered chassis. Both have decals sets available. And remember, TGauge.com sells flextrack that is perfect for narrow gauge, and CCE Models makes the turnouts (one way dummy turnouts).<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOjY_7qjSgsEsceNW2NSmgORLJBZnZlveMOXlsJkblVRpjTgwS_BtZrWKK7wKGOd-CNND1BjpR5gxCeuq2HR47kpGCBpsTe3r7j2s5lGMSvlWvurxbrWxq4FmkRfymphMPf34M-KyKZIE/s2048/IMG_7822.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOjY_7qjSgsEsceNW2NSmgORLJBZnZlveMOXlsJkblVRpjTgwS_BtZrWKK7wKGOd-CNND1BjpR5gxCeuq2HR47kpGCBpsTe3r7j2s5lGMSvlWvurxbrWxq4FmkRfymphMPf34M-KyKZIE/w400-h300/IMG_7822.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><span> </span>1:450 scale (T scale) 50' Combination door boxcar</b>. This is also large enough to house a powered chassis. Decal sets for CN and WM (shown) are available. <br /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0M3M2kuaqF-TtakORZcKrQC1x8r3z0QJePV42yqQDbCvzP36SM9UekaGqf2Pa3oydD2nrjZwfBxKuVQn12ePDire6EBxCAUfuJRjMZ98UYu1JbZ1crl-PuLYY8P9ltKuT1YRdTO0XFNo/s2048/IMG_7877.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0M3M2kuaqF-TtakORZcKrQC1x8r3z0QJePV42yqQDbCvzP36SM9UekaGqf2Pa3oydD2nrjZwfBxKuVQn12ePDire6EBxCAUfuJRjMZ98UYu1JbZ1crl-PuLYY8P9ltKuT1YRdTO0XFNo/w400-h300/IMG_7877.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><span> </span>ATSF Warbonnet decals</b> for the C40-8W in T-scale: <br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3-sR08KucqCxBshZpRhdnRlWiPGgzR51QlVDSUU1kuNUALjA6ryN-_YC2ox0p-jQ9GOTmypBRA9sprTdxnv2ZsHfNI4csNPNW0LVjgok_s4C-w_9WJ-ZAWwLk3a6SjOKdT54m9mgnZ3U/s2048/2020-09-24+11.25.03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="2048" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3-sR08KucqCxBshZpRhdnRlWiPGgzR51QlVDSUU1kuNUALjA6ryN-_YC2ox0p-jQ9GOTmypBRA9sprTdxnv2ZsHfNI4csNPNW0LVjgok_s4C-w_9WJ-ZAWwLk3a6SjOKdT54m9mgnZ3U/w400-h200/2020-09-24+11.25.03.jpg" width="400" /> </a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b> <span> </span>PC/Conrail X67 hi-cube boxcar </b>in T-scale, along with PC and Conrail decals.<br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9xK4DW1n5LIxXF0UcqIVfNjI4LbGRvaWUJA9AuzRMYfarBnznBxXN-vrWwU5SFspnnSkH1YOeExrGxwLC0NB9dfGr63b8HMIGVT6DaZO1X80SHKjTL68hwi2fLCK9Cuwnd9dCsMppGs/s2048/CCE+Models+X67+Boxcar.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9xK4DW1n5LIxXF0UcqIVfNjI4LbGRvaWUJA9AuzRMYfarBnznBxXN-vrWwU5SFspnnSkH1YOeExrGxwLC0NB9dfGr63b8HMIGVT6DaZO1X80SHKjTL68hwi2fLCK9Cuwnd9dCsMppGs/s320/CCE+Models+X67+Boxcar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><b>SLSF (Frisco)--BN specific version GP40-2 (and two CN specific locomotives) </b>are now available. These were made because of customer requests/commissions, but now everyone can get one. <br /></p><p> </p><p><b>Other work going on:</b></p><p>--Prototyping of Bombardier gallery cars. These are almost ready, expect on the site any day--see below.<br /></p><p>--Improving the internal bearing trucks (used on Amfleet cars, Budd gallery cars, and Bombardier gallery cars.) These had a couple of issues; the outside diameter was awkwardly large to the eye (the wheels on the prototype are smallish, at 33"). The new design improves this somewhat although still not 33" to scale; Also the models were having issues with the axles being printed "stuck"--ie not consistently free rolling. The latest design addresses these issues. </p><p>--Etched railing kits for the big covered hopper cars (3-bay, and 4-bay) and NE Caboose. I did one test and it was too fragile to be practical; Design revised and new test on the way. Once I get these dialed in I will expand to the other hoppers. <br /></p><p>--An ASEA/EMD AEM-7. The design is almost done. It will have PE pantographs and can be powered by a 34mm chassis. Decals are also planned.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnm0_avIvnY8CNaW9QdcuJlbkA0OBYwraUVWfcVmG9eCTi8ch1lHDjji-DO9jtwZJnP7g2_FDJdCpFG-oceBStesf7ynfv3CFnIJtZ67IWMjGrAANIrDRBzlqPS80fhGBHRtzDlFUpS40/s1300/AEM-7%25287%2529.stl.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="683" data-original-width="1300" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnm0_avIvnY8CNaW9QdcuJlbkA0OBYwraUVWfcVmG9eCTi8ch1lHDjji-DO9jtwZJnP7g2_FDJdCpFG-oceBStesf7ynfv3CFnIJtZ67IWMjGrAANIrDRBzlqPS80fhGBHRtzDlFUpS40/w400-h210/AEM-7%25287%2529.stl.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>--Northeast Corridor station (Princeton Jct.). These are prototyped and include platform, shelter, and station buildings. These are intended for my Princeton module which is getting closer to fruition. <br /></p><p>On the drawing board:</p><p>--Another hi-cube boxcar (customer request), autorack, and loaded bulkhead flatcar. </p><p></p><p>Other models/items of interest:</p><p>--I did a set of Conrail H45 covered hopper decals in T, N and HO scale together with some of the fine folks at the <a href="https://www.thecrhs.org/" target="_blank">Conrail Historical Society</a>. I will be adding the T-scale set to the website and the other scales may soon be available through the <a href="https://www.thecrhs.org/" target="_blank">Conrail Historical Society</a> "Conrail Shoppe". If you're interested in these, let me (or them) know. Incidentally, I highly recommend joining this non-profit group if you are a Conrail fan or modeler. They curate tons of great information and make it available thruogh their website, publications, and meetings. They also restore historic Conrail equipment that would otherwise be scrapped--such as an X67 boxcar like the one I recently modeled.<br /></p><p>--I'm working on a commissioned custom painted AWVR AC4400CW. HO Scale (it's mazzive!)</p><p></p><p>That's it for now and thanks for reading! I'll endeavor to get back on a monthly schedule. As always, if you have any questions feel free to reach out to me at ccetrains@gmail.com, or fill out a contact form at the <a href="www.ccemodels.com" target="_blank">CCE Models website.<br /></a></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-24198552659586780472020-08-22T12:40:00.008-07:002020-08-23T09:16:20.335-07:00Power to the People (and Passenger and Freight Cars)<p>With apologies to John Lennon, this post will show you how I get power "right on" to various rolling stock. This trick is used to push (or pull) non-poweredT-gauge locomotives. It's also true in T gauge that there's no such thing as too much power for a train so your passenger cars can be powered even if the locomotive is. This trick is also useful to achieve prototypical truck spacing for some 3D printed cab locomotives or DMU's where the stock mechanism is not correct. </p><p>I've used this technique in the Budd gallery cars (cab and coach), the 40' D&RGW long reefer, as well as in the MP36 locomotive and RDC DMU's. Several CCE Models are set up specifically for this (as shown below), but the modeler can kitbash using the same principles. <br /></p><p>The idea is pretty simple: The un-powered end on a TGauge powered chassis is connected by a short horizontal frame to the motor end. The chassis segment can be cut/discarded, and the un-powered end placed as needed to achieve the desired truck spacing. Power pickup via the unpowered end can be maintained either through direct contact with the severed contact strips, or by direct wiring.</p><p>Here's a 21m chassis, showing where the cuts are made:</p><p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4YkVYIMNeTPuH4GmdwFlpOhrBEyQfIagN2OesnYoTEXfT84xY-oESbH4_9yp8jqTPpfyoRzbPA0dUTWjGq-Dnh4qWg_YYq4lns2ps0Xiloj59BA7iSByrWC_7Oy07vVgyX_w7UlnNFeg/s2048/2020-08-22+11.01.58.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4YkVYIMNeTPuH4GmdwFlpOhrBEyQfIagN2OesnYoTEXfT84xY-oESbH4_9yp8jqTPpfyoRzbPA0dUTWjGq-Dnh4qWg_YYq4lns2ps0Xiloj59BA7iSByrWC_7Oy07vVgyX_w7UlnNFeg/s640/2020-08-22+11.01.58.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p></p><p>After the cuts are made (I just use a rail nipper both for the acetyl plastic and the steel contacts), bend the contacts on the motor end over. Try to cut the contacts so there's enough room to give it a "curl" at the end--although this isn't really necessary. If you're shortening the truck spacing, the contacts from the unpowered end can be arranged to sit in the top of the shell in alignment with the motor-end contacts, and maintain continuity. At least they should.. I have also soldered magnet wire between the contacts to ensure a connection and maintain pickup. </p><p>Here's another view of the cuts and the bent motor-end contacts. You can see, I was not going for precision..it will be hidden anyway.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4q-r7qMxqLAINOvZ4E5LV3NNzPHhqn1afq4As1Jic-PR8lb6eMmDTt6BGZjcBe202D8tOn-5uwIMktdV9zSVLUeb_4mnwKr4wZhliJlvvpnyZRJQcSrwN9z4U3voiZpBczmehVgSz7ko/s2048/2020-08-22+11.02.16.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4q-r7qMxqLAINOvZ4E5LV3NNzPHhqn1afq4As1Jic-PR8lb6eMmDTt6BGZjcBe202D8tOn-5uwIMktdV9zSVLUeb_4mnwKr4wZhliJlvvpnyZRJQcSrwN9z4U3voiZpBczmehVgSz7ko/w246-h328/2020-08-22+11.02.16.jpg" width="246" /></a></div><p>Here's an example with contact wires soldered on joining the unpowered and motor end:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEium4ScVFNUi9I7g5tIL1_h_5TDtTdR8YDa5FBqxK8jlNl9cB1IRcQtqTYsXeYo3PXkbc8wd4e_MabYB_ycZokfZE5Us9SAaAKoEJo54VRyYF1wW_f41HsAPa_qrFPjF6qNIZjjxAzqnHg/s2048/2020-08-22+10.01.42.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEium4ScVFNUi9I7g5tIL1_h_5TDtTdR8YDa5FBqxK8jlNl9cB1IRcQtqTYsXeYo3PXkbc8wd4e_MabYB_ycZokfZE5Us9SAaAKoEJo54VRyYF1wW_f41HsAPa_qrFPjF6qNIZjjxAzqnHg/s640/2020-08-22+10.01.42.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Some CCE Models' shells like this Budd Gallery Car have tabs molded into them to retain the chassis segments:</p><p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_dgB58vAmAapC04ZmWQcGAZrWfedzKr_sbNsoJnF9LEQIdHeeQtkHYMCVZb66GJOPcK8bXqKUJRfdXfsMD61cfK_7M8CRBcprZZUkt-i8TCSPJhknZLtULG6FA5qE-p_uCPDI03rG_Y/s2048/2020-08-22+09.59.29.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_dgB58vAmAapC04ZmWQcGAZrWfedzKr_sbNsoJnF9LEQIdHeeQtkHYMCVZb66GJOPcK8bXqKUJRfdXfsMD61cfK_7M8CRBcprZZUkt-i8TCSPJhknZLtULG6FA5qE-p_uCPDI03rG_Y/s640/2020-08-22+09.59.29.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><p>That's it! </p><p>Thanks for reading and best regards until next time. - J<br /></p>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-4175616549345180832020-07-27T09:42:00.003-07:002020-07-27T09:46:09.179-07:00There Ain't No Cure for the Summertime T-oosPlease excuse the title, I was just listening to some tunes 😁 Here's the latest and greatest on several projects that are coming together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6w2PhshkpCye7eHPjP4eD3eigUV2CEdUtYffNO2nhUMo8pvAalAYpNAHQCi5zjYYw4ISoDb6rdYOnbEHHP3lTKRKzH6VZsZQVMfT8lN-fsvw7r81SD1N2cPrEGkBzLYBS28T6W-vBs9Y/s1600/2020-07-25+12.54.33-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6w2PhshkpCye7eHPjP4eD3eigUV2CEdUtYffNO2nhUMo8pvAalAYpNAHQCi5zjYYw4ISoDb6rdYOnbEHHP3lTKRKzH6VZsZQVMfT8lN-fsvw7r81SD1N2cPrEGkBzLYBS28T6W-vBs9Y/s320/2020-07-25+12.54.33-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<b>D&RGW K-36</b>: Completed the test model, I think the appearance is good! This one is (sadly) destined to be a garage queen because
although it rolls on the leading and trailing trucks, it is not
powered. That being said, the running gear is "phase 1" towards an
actual working mechanism. It did function (main rod, side rod, and
cross-head) when test-fit, but I ended up putting a dab of glue on the
etched rods to hold them in place. I have some of the TGauge.com micro
rivets, but didn't attempt to rivet them since the drivers aren't set up
for it. Much was learned from the exercise anyway, which will be
applied to
future mechanisms. For example, drivers will be geared together to
ensure synchronization, and will take the aforementioned micro-rivets to
hold the etched<i> stainless steel</i> rods (the test model's were brass and too fragile). Driver construction will be
an issue--I'd like to get them turned, but I may try to adapt the
T-gauge style of magnetic tires to a 3D printed driver.. Other than
that--the locomotive has etched details such as piping, cab windows
(need to open them next time), handrails (boiler and tender) and I
designed the decals. I used clear decal film for the windows btw, but
forgot to do the doghouse windows before the pics. On the rear view you
can see the etched brass harp-style switch stand. Not positive if these
were used on the D&RGW (I think on the RGS they were..?) I'm still
learning a lot but thought it was an interesting appliance
none-the-less.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7jpTP6Q-ed7I8fWoZBZFGG2tEJPDfK2DePyznROFe2FYP6mqmqIhoZbnoP5c4O857RM-4O1tST8QiZB0Yv8XenI3mQdoQJ1dKlgRLwof1ciTxkLU9U_xAGldjBuLz6975OdsfKQlcWw/s1600/2020-07-25+12.53.37-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu7jpTP6Q-ed7I8fWoZBZFGG2tEJPDfK2DePyznROFe2FYP6mqmqIhoZbnoP5c4O857RM-4O1tST8QiZB0Yv8XenI3mQdoQJ1dKlgRLwof1ciTxkLU9U_xAGldjBuLz6975OdsfKQlcWw/s400/2020-07-25+12.53.37-1.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Note the "harp" style switch stand on the display. This is an etched brass kit. It's small but easy to assemble (just fold up the sides, and the mast can be press-fit. I painted the masthead/indicator white, then added a scrap of red decal with a bunch of setting solution to get it to settle around the part. It fits nicely with the narrow-gauge style dummy turnout.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCsQ_7US-uI7xCoj0aB6QHbVZDKKhBPDWK9xxn1OYJFoZTaFEimXEGhT1vBTSyKufU5dPLR2g_A_wm8cJoYI5DvRZWaM5qdmsThsckC3VieMSiK_gQUGIQFmYdepnFLtAqn5191DTlf8/s1600/2020-07-26+11.14.22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMCsQ_7US-uI7xCoj0aB6QHbVZDKKhBPDWK9xxn1OYJFoZTaFEimXEGhT1vBTSyKufU5dPLR2g_A_wm8cJoYI5DvRZWaM5qdmsThsckC3VieMSiK_gQUGIQFmYdepnFLtAqn5191DTlf8/s400/2020-07-26+11.14.22.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<b>D&RGW 40' refrigerated boxcar</b>, aka "long reefer" is being printed right now,
which will be able to house a mechanisim so there's hope of
running (pushing) the K-36 yet.<br />
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<b>50 foot tank car: </b> The prototype tank car model was received and assembled and it turned out nicely. This is a very common type, based on the DOT-111 style car. This is available as a kit, along with a set of decals designed for the tank car (the decal set can do several models.)<br />
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<b>Class 66</b>: A modeler reached out regarding the Class 66, a UK/EU prototype. This model was one of the earlier ones I had in the CCE Models' lineup, so I did a revision to bring the details up to par. I also included options for modeling it as a dummy with full HTC-R bogies, or just using the HTC-R sideframes to install over sanded down sideframes on a powered mechanism. To top it off, I have a set of decals designed for the model in multiple paint schemes. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lb01KA3lPKPf3pFs9ukMIE7R8czRo17msMsc9yBR41qW1_2HvB7DcDhmtnnAeZLPI-YicXon5ErW5JML-SiUJP4FbGY3HbVwPo_1CAHUtup1QCPRAqWsLDAzoEXfVjKXinFj3TpTosI/s1600/Screenshot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="1121" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-lb01KA3lPKPf3pFs9ukMIE7R8czRo17msMsc9yBR41qW1_2HvB7DcDhmtnnAeZLPI-YicXon5ErW5JML-SiUJP4FbGY3HbVwPo_1CAHUtup1QCPRAqWsLDAzoEXfVjKXinFj3TpTosI/s320/Screenshot.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Low-resolution screen shot</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b>Misc: </b><br />
<ul>
<li>Etched end handrail/ladder sets for the 2-bay and 3-bay ACF hoppers were made, I'm working on the test/proof models currently. Should have them in the next update.</li>
<li>Concept is down, design work is planned for a powered mechanism/chassis that will be thin enough to power a hood-style US diesel such as the GP40, GP9, RS11, etc.</li>
</ul>
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<br />Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-62958121608859430992020-06-19T10:56:00.001-07:002020-06-19T10:59:51.670-07:00June T(scale)eenthAs we celebrate the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Juneteenth" target="_blank">Juneteenth Holiday</a> here in the USA, I am also celebrating some new modeling developments. Here's a run-down of what I've been working on at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/ccemodels/" target="_blank">CCE Models</a> over the past few weeks...<br />
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<b>K-36:</b> I received what seems to me to be the "final" body shell for the K-36, which has fine detail but more rugged construction and some other improvements. Note the headlight, number boards, piping and even a whistle. Drivers are 3D printed, but leading/trailing and tender wheelsets are all T-gauge standard wheelsets. It's primed, but waiting on the etched detail set to arrive before it can be finished (cosmetically). The etched detail set includes rods, handrails, ladders, window frames, visors, and some other stuff. So this will make at very nice display or free-rolling dummy model. The challenge now becomes "can it be powered". I think so...eventually. I will have to keep the pencil sharpened and engineer a drive for it over the next year or so.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbVDbJzlQM4YalIXoJfsVeBQ4yDAQc5WuMPIrkn0MIgs2ECgHsJjxXY3iZ4KwWZBtD2kvY-OOeAYNjwk2YI-p74n0U8ujtJhfgivQEHAMKeBfwbf02wzz2OTt8orncmAU7LQVaVJdRmHw/s1600/2020-06-19+12.55.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="1600" height="169" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbVDbJzlQM4YalIXoJfsVeBQ4yDAQc5WuMPIrkn0MIgs2ECgHsJjxXY3iZ4KwWZBtD2kvY-OOeAYNjwk2YI-p74n0U8ujtJhfgivQEHAMKeBfwbf02wzz2OTt8orncmAU7LQVaVJdRmHw/s320/2020-06-19+12.55.27.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Ford F-7000 MOW Truck:</b> I completed this design in both T and Z scale. It came out better than expected actually. It's a kit with cab, dump bed, frame, and crane as the major components. There are also decals (for Penn Central) that are being printed for this model as well. It's planned to reside on the Sharonville Engine Facility diorama.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Xl2PVjvwE8Hfy6jvts0Ts8NxP1eJIBTmq8_6ryEL3bduyJAYt1qM4_boBVgmUiG8BhRy0x9aIGGLtc4KKWsKChnGsbP2lZaVYnocJ8tRIqLhZU2UPBKDf4Yh9mc-7Di0cDYtlnwF4W8/s1600/2020-06-19+09.12.47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Xl2PVjvwE8Hfy6jvts0Ts8NxP1eJIBTmq8_6ryEL3bduyJAYt1qM4_boBVgmUiG8BhRy0x9aIGGLtc4KKWsKChnGsbP2lZaVYnocJ8tRIqLhZU2UPBKDf4Yh9mc-7Di0cDYtlnwF4W8/s320/2020-06-19+09.12.47.jpg" width="320" />t</a></div>
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<b>Trees: </b> I think that I shall never see, a thing as lovely as a T-scale tree.. Thinking ahead I am realizing I will need numerous trees for various dioramas so I wanted to practice up on how to make a decent-looking T tree. Some time back I bought a large bag of the cheap model trees that are made in China
(simple twisted wire and foam) with the idea I'd use them at some point.
They are about 2-3 cm high and come in a fairly garish bright green,
so the first thing I did was paint the foliage using a couple rattle cans of flat green (NATO
green and a slighty lighter color) to tone down the foam. Then I used
cheap brown acrylic craft paint to coat the trunk again, then used some brown
and black pencils to give it a little texture. Then I did two different finishes to the foliage. First I dusted some white chalks from above to lighten the upper surfaces, then sifted
"yellow grass" ground foam turf (Woodland Scenics) to simulate new growth and leaves with the light brightening them. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out and will be thinking about how to do fir trees and sagebrush for the Rio Grande dioramas/modules.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Larch</td></tr>
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<b>Decalmania!</b>: I spent a great deal of time this month working on vector graphics for decals.. some of the subjects include CN diesels, VIA diesels and passenger cars, PC diesels and cabooses, PRR and Amtrak GG1's, L&N diesels, TTI u-boats, and GATX tank cars.. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi68sn7TtHHqMIOlJtK-XrmY0sDElIBkNcA89TU3c6sT5m1ws-1_2DHfzOqJYYgtaOgGml9VojKbL12fKB5mbfwjRmbrTwhjEGivHsX8oHcmQ56EeXesgyxU1KO1eC1WlneoAqhTG6iIQI/s1600/noname.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="599" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi68sn7TtHHqMIOlJtK-XrmY0sDElIBkNcA89TU3c6sT5m1ws-1_2DHfzOqJYYgtaOgGml9VojKbL12fKB5mbfwjRmbrTwhjEGivHsX8oHcmQ56EeXesgyxU1KO1eC1WlneoAqhTG6iIQI/s320/noname.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PRR and Amtrak GG1 set</td></tr>
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What's coming... expecting a series of etched frets with details for various models (both new and old) and some lineside details such as this Calvert switch stand in 1:300 scale.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQn3fnZQzc3HTOaAm-yZUqN62EJYiFm3Rhhdfg9pmKgG6U3S9gR3AiC-Mf0YVumE3dLxjyWCGX8-H82fv2zhFIa8SEQvkuQDgiuCBaqu_Ql3XNyQwqJ9i-naiwq6Eedj7HVtznnrsaz44/s1600/Calvert+Switch+Stand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1208" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQn3fnZQzc3HTOaAm-yZUqN62EJYiFm3Rhhdfg9pmKgG6U3S9gR3AiC-Mf0YVumE3dLxjyWCGX8-H82fv2zhFIa8SEQvkuQDgiuCBaqu_Ql3XNyQwqJ9i-naiwq6Eedj7HVtznnrsaz44/s320/Calvert+Switch+Stand.jpg" width="241" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by J. Ehernberger</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Until next time,<br />
Jesse<br />
<br />Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-77531592587039722402020-05-26T09:49:00.004-07:002020-05-26T09:49:51.213-07:00May ModelingHere it is, close to the end of May already! Where does the time go? At least with pandemic "Shelter in Place" orders us modelers have something good to do, and I hope you've found this time productive. I know I have! Here are a few updates on some old-- and new-- projects.<br />
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<b>D&RGW K-36:</b> The K-36 Mikado project continues. This has been a fantastic learning experience for me. Not only is it in a new scale (1:300 although it uses T-gauge track) it's my first steam locomotive. Steam locos have so many details compared to diesels, so I have had to learn more about them in general, the whys and wherefores of the various piping and fittings, air compressors, crossheads, drive and connecting rods, etc., but also enhanced my techniques to be able to produce a good model. For example, the K-36 will have several add-on etched parts. It also needed accurate decals (along with the 30' boxcar), none of which are available and are in white-which cannot be printed on an inkjet at home. So I've "upped my game" in several areas. I have taught myself Inkscape in order to better draft etch and decal artwork for a custom printer. <br />
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As of 5/26 the second iteration of prototypes has been received and further refinements to the model design have been done. Here's the latest version sans cab (a victim of my "constructive destruction" process to identify weak spots). It's also missing stirrup steps on the tender, back up light, number boards, and some piping all for the same reason. No worries, these areas have been addressed along with some other refinements. <br />
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I also made <a href="https://youtu.be/7r5mcXCDDlY" target="_blank">a video</a> to demonstrate the free-rolling nature of the drivers. These are 3D printed acrylic, however I also have brass versions coming. It will be interesting to see how they compare, but the 3D versions are actually acceptable to me (surprisingly). <br />
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As a side note, the 1:300 scale 30' D&RGW boxcar final version was test assembled and custom designed decals (from CCE Models) are applied. My only "beef" is that I used 0.15mm wire for the truss rods.. I need to find some finer material because they are a little too beefy. Again, a set of custom decals was made for this, and will be included in the kit from CCE Models.<br />
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<b>Metra Gallery Cars</b>: I completed a test model of the Metra (ex CB&Q) Budd gallery cab car. This is a powered model and will go with the MP36 model that is not yet decorated (soon..!) Window glass is accomplished using my clear decal film technique. There is also a coach version (does not have the engineer's window and horn).<br />
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<b>GP40-2W</b>: As mentioned in a previous post, a fellow modeler who is working on a Canadian prototype layout requested some rolling stock appropriate for his needs. I designed a GP40-2W (based upon the existing GP40-2 model) and it's now available. Also, I designed some "tiger stripe" Canadian National decals in order for it to be accurately decorated.<br />
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<b>CN-Via CO7/8 Coach:</b> The aforementioned modeler also requested a very common coach found around Toronto, and being intrigued by the challenge I obliged. The model comes with a rudimentary interior. On the list is a set of appropriate decals for VIA and CN.<br />
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<b>DOT-111 Tank Car:</b> Tank cars being so common I have wanted to model one in T for some time, however until I got into the etching of parts for the K-36 it sat on the back burner. Here is an earlier design--the current is somewhat modified from this--that illustrates what is nearing completion. The prototype is loosely based on those made by Greenbriar (but very similar to others) with a capacity of 29,000 gallons. The etch kit will come with optional end shields which are applied as required for transport of crude oil.<br />
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<b>Other Odds-and-Ends..</b> Sharonville diorama received a little work, but has been somewhat neglected due to all the design work and rolling stock work. I did some tests of "snow scenes" and found that deep snow can be effectively modeled in T using common spackling paste--painted with matte white after it dried and received a light sanding. Very light snow "a dusting" can be achieved with a light spray of white primer (I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer). You can see the deep snow effect in the D&RGW boxcar picture above, or here just after painting:<br />
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Whew, reading over this I'm going to be challenged to keep up the pace. But it's all good fun! Until next time-- Jesse <br />
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<br />Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-5369135610213233122020-05-06T13:49:00.004-07:002020-05-06T14:05:13.176-07:00A T-Gauge Public Service Message: Replacing Tension Springs<i>(Note: I will provide a post on the many projects underway at a later date).</i><br />
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You aren't a real "T-Gauger" until you've shot one (or several) of the tiny bogie tension springs into the cavernous void while trying to replace them. Well, here's the technique I use to facilitate re-attaching them.<br />
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Of course re-attachment assumes you have either a.) gotten down on your hands and knees and searched the expanse for the little buggers, and by some miracle found it, b.) gave up and then weeks later found it sitting among several paint jars along with dust, spilled ballast rocks, and dead flies, or c.) broke down and bought the <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/125/7/truck-tension-springs" target="_blank">replacements</a>, which are packaged in excruciatingly small quantities-- giving rise to further anxiety over then losing these and having to order more.<br />
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<b>Step 1:</b> Locate the spring (see above)<br />
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<b>Step 2: </b> Thread a bit of wire--a pliable strand from some typical wire is good--through the coils of the spring, not through the round ends.<br />
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<b>Step 3:</b> Create a loop with the wire, and add a bit of tape so you can see it and add some weight. It's also useful to help hold it.<br />
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<b>Step 4: </b> Install the spring on the chassis, securing both ends. To do this, you'll want some tweezers to aid the process. Don't panic--you won't be able to shoot the spring across the room anymore or if you do, you'll be able to see it. The wire loop stays inside the spring.<br />
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<b>Step 5: </b> Cut the wire with some snips and remove.<br />
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<i><b>And there ya go.</b></i>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-60654451112889705032020-04-22T10:25:00.002-07:002020-04-22T10:25:30.529-07:00April Fooling AroundI hope that all of my readers are safe and well during the pandemic. I'm hunkered down and doing quite a bit of design and modeling. Here's what's new:<br />
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<b>Sharonville Engine House Diorama:</b><br />
The engine house is installed on the base, ballast laid, and basic weathering done. I used trusty DAS modeling clay to set the engine house and turntable pit into the base. <br />
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I used a blend of fine grout for the ballast, with liberal application of chalk powders (light gray, white, brown) to blend it. <br />
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The turntable has been painted and test installed--looks rather "new" as it is not weathered yet. <br />
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Windows were installed on the engine house using MicroScale Krystal Klear. I need to paint over a bunch of the panes as the prototype has about 20% broken out/replaced with wood. The doors (open ones) had to be sanded down to thin them a little. So far, I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAU5-lb4iqHt-oyEvq0BTFqIYG3Mh4wfUPJA3ttGSVnvVYr2n4tQqvsZzmeDHC5PJtRLqhAQQ0Xh_5Rc9ow6FUnP3sxHcLA9yoQKpvm4WU5tRWqXjdkPiNmGUXcruYUhAHQjzsMdCFs7c/s1600/2020-04-22+11.49.28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAU5-lb4iqHt-oyEvq0BTFqIYG3Mh4wfUPJA3ttGSVnvVYr2n4tQqvsZzmeDHC5PJtRLqhAQQ0Xh_5Rc9ow6FUnP3sxHcLA9yoQKpvm4WU5tRWqXjdkPiNmGUXcruYUhAHQjzsMdCFs7c/s320/2020-04-22+11.49.28.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Moving from the model to the prototype, here's a picture I took in Sharonville in the late 90's after the engine house was razed. The building would've been on the left-hand side of the picture where the shed is. Turntable is still there, on the left, but just outside of the picture. There's still a nice assortment of Conrail (and early CSX) locomotives on the pad. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhusm5GxZ-AiZ75rp2B2Wa4cnLwQfENekdakSSvH5h4k6NJqfDxz7vUvNewTLp1e43_iuuryOzWAs_UJQDcXQscpDfz62vZDy4qd_b2LfLPqtdAQlCnDMgyaakAGPeSnNLB0AOIZe2fu7c/s1600/2020-04-17+20.56.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="1600" height="127" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhusm5GxZ-AiZ75rp2B2Wa4cnLwQfENekdakSSvH5h4k6NJqfDxz7vUvNewTLp1e43_iuuryOzWAs_UJQDcXQscpDfz62vZDy4qd_b2LfLPqtdAQlCnDMgyaakAGPeSnNLB0AOIZe2fu7c/s320/2020-04-17+20.56.11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>1:300 Narrow Gauge Project:</b><br />
Several items are in process right now. <br />
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The K-36 is progressing, I had a test model made of the locomotive to test my assembly concept (frame attaching to boiler) and also how much detail could be printed on the model. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8wJIeBhmSk_4gzGFTMf9CT3KDzwrvtj6Ps1HilAwNnlTPiqwhdmJXSaiIgaxmqt0ZtBldhgVP4yFGdOjtWm_7e4pM7ck-ZBfSdVz9hr90e72YNos2Cz4o9k5fiVJ0tpnMvQ1Xg8zfxVc/s1600/2020-04-22+10.04.09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8wJIeBhmSk_4gzGFTMf9CT3KDzwrvtj6Ps1HilAwNnlTPiqwhdmJXSaiIgaxmqt0ZtBldhgVP4yFGdOjtWm_7e4pM7ck-ZBfSdVz9hr90e72YNos2Cz4o9k5fiVJ0tpnMvQ1Xg8zfxVc/s320/2020-04-22+10.04.09.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I got some answers--some of the finest detail didn't make it, but nothing I can't work around. For example, the number boards and bits of the air compressor didn't make it, but the headlight did (although I later broke it off in cleaning). This is how the process goes and I'll revise the model to take it into account this either by simply omitting the part, beefing it up, or making them as add-on parts. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5VSO3vCgWTur3B9GYv0kxBCuBivXYWyeP0l6IyKYPmLX-PDVCGTk0RQVphM2n331SjL6hW-hip57krrTDgj-yC8z4TS2gikV5W2JCww3vp8pYfexI5aG9P8p4BoFWizhiX-IrxNGU1k/s1600/2020-04-22+11.40.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ5VSO3vCgWTur3B9GYv0kxBCuBivXYWyeP0l6IyKYPmLX-PDVCGTk0RQVphM2n331SjL6hW-hip57krrTDgj-yC8z4TS2gikV5W2JCww3vp8pYfexI5aG9P8p4BoFWizhiX-IrxNGU1k/s320/2020-04-22+11.40.51.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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My biggest dilemma now is how to get the counterweights and rods animated.. I'm not sure it's going to be possible on the first "real" version. The tender is almost completed as well. Here's how it looks on the rails, next to the first iteration of the 30' boxcar: <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhetMkyeBMx2hiqwt2zfUOE8aM5l2jOOj0P6KcfI2EUR4nFJj9M4B54rC917kUFI0ZFWXxlAztfu8Q_wUOYHlKG75WcOxq0JI55bjhsmIYH7ZlpEFxWohmqdKHkYF9F14gaQEYewejUF-U/s1600/2020-04-22+11.49.38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhetMkyeBMx2hiqwt2zfUOE8aM5l2jOOj0P6KcfI2EUR4nFJj9M4B54rC917kUFI0ZFWXxlAztfu8Q_wUOYHlKG75WcOxq0JI55bjhsmIYH7ZlpEFxWohmqdKHkYF9F14gaQEYewejUF-U/s320/2020-04-22+11.49.38.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And a rendering with the tender.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi790v3C56PczBtop5FZVXxVeKPKCKaTa3xKE0HMa1Uhd6ThhXjLvWTlKUXKaG23-RI1qQ9teUYaCPiOGOe3IiD4VC_lW5GcT11Jt0doNp3e8zNGxxfxcMvTlKYdviemQb67TZBESwsK58/s1600/K-36%252813%2529.stl.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="552" data-original-width="1507" height="117" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi790v3C56PczBtop5FZVXxVeKPKCKaTa3xKE0HMa1Uhd6ThhXjLvWTlKUXKaG23-RI1qQ9teUYaCPiOGOe3IiD4VC_lW5GcT11Jt0doNp3e8zNGxxfxcMvTlKYdviemQb67TZBESwsK58/s320/K-36%252813%2529.stl.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also designed a #8 dummy turnout base to go with the <a href="https://www.tgauge.us/product/397/3/brown-wider-sleeper-flexitrack" target="_blank">TGauge.com "Wider Sleeper Flexitrack"</a> which is the 1:300 3-foot gauge track. It's a dummy because the mechanism would be too complicated for now, and I just wanted something to visually approximate a turnout on a "roundy round" type layout. In theory, I could do nearly any type of turnout-- wye, three-way, etc. in the same way. "One of these days" I'll think about making a working one.. when the mechanisms catch up. <br />
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Here's how it looks before rail is installed:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4aX-rzReaHp0-Yryw6hy1AbcancbREFxzuPl2uosNl74OyQL3NZ5cc26oJnUYIojUlgvKO8nL8nSP6lq_6MyCxWq3giqw6ddXfrNxW6ORKtXvvJYS6Np-9ccmBFnxlvTHXTJ-CiWvm2E/s1600/2020-04-22+10.05.38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4aX-rzReaHp0-Yryw6hy1AbcancbREFxzuPl2uosNl74OyQL3NZ5cc26oJnUYIojUlgvKO8nL8nSP6lq_6MyCxWq3giqw6ddXfrNxW6ORKtXvvJYS6Np-9ccmBFnxlvTHXTJ-CiWvm2E/s320/2020-04-22+10.05.38.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Next comes the rail:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPqlSL3qVTC8vdO8qwVDBk17d8iLVSPQZ-JaGoz6ejRaJWPiFY-RL7h4ZBDZRqBghGL9_c9OXzMXFgPnCtX6T3WeFHRvSETOjUdYazf94FSkFgtgUZDOcrmP86HTxgg8iNxe6ubjGhvU/s1600/2020-04-22+10.40.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqPqlSL3qVTC8vdO8qwVDBk17d8iLVSPQZ-JaGoz6ejRaJWPiFY-RL7h4ZBDZRqBghGL9_c9OXzMXFgPnCtX6T3WeFHRvSETOjUdYazf94FSkFgtgUZDOcrmP86HTxgg8iNxe6ubjGhvU/s320/2020-04-22+10.40.52.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
And with paint:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMt1fxG2seMPmDzqUj0E-35g2mi2FPfItAKBC0hdwNjCpLljXBZsgURjLpcuiqKhldzXqdlOgeiyVhdsZey1AS3Ci6MvV0ekm7I3v8tkN7b25dEOgiQDzxBCk-o6gx7QCD_Uq38eJJxos/s1600/2020-04-22+11.40.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMt1fxG2seMPmDzqUj0E-35g2mi2FPfItAKBC0hdwNjCpLljXBZsgURjLpcuiqKhldzXqdlOgeiyVhdsZey1AS3Ci6MvV0ekm7I3v8tkN7b25dEOgiQDzxBCk-o6gx7QCD_Uq38eJJxos/s320/2020-04-22+11.40.13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Other Stuff:</b><br />
A T-scaler out of Canada requested some Canadian prototype equipment. Some may need to be done from scratch, but he mentioned the GP40-2W.. since I already have a GP40-2 I thought, okie dokie! Here's the rendering, and next time I should have a first iteration model to show ya. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngUe3d4o3ZRGaqwYMLkvb6RifMYbSOiwr-fc6TJ_RWbVTAWap8V33wLEJcPmr0xZI0NchPWOn63QfLte3zYbanrPtXEPq1w1bRwRhvnlh8-AlvyY97nGLNXW5U43EzBvfkabZIEW1iIA/s1600/GP40-2W+R041520%25287%2529.stl%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="1296" height="136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgngUe3d4o3ZRGaqwYMLkvb6RifMYbSOiwr-fc6TJ_RWbVTAWap8V33wLEJcPmr0xZI0NchPWOn63QfLte3zYbanrPtXEPq1w1bRwRhvnlh8-AlvyY97nGLNXW5U43EzBvfkabZIEW1iIA/s320/GP40-2W+R041520%25287%2529.stl%25281%2529.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Until next time, stay safe and stay healthy!<br />
-Jesse<br />
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<br />Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-88124373301526861832020-03-21T06:29:00.001-07:002020-03-21T06:39:19.509-07:00March Madness<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sadly, we would typically be watching basketball this time of year, but for now the madness is confined to panic-buying of toilet paper at the grocery store. Keep calm and carry on, eh? I find myself recommending to others they try scale modeling (whether railroads or other such as plastic aircrafts kits, etc.) to pass the time at home.<br />
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As for myself, I have several projects in the works.<br />
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First and foremost is the exploration of narrow gauge using T-gauge track. Last time I mentioned a custom 2-foot gauge Z scale dump car based on the Gilpin Tramway. Here is the finished model:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LflfRWCIdTgaIRV7BUU_3FnE4-AwwktZEonDBrI3ZRotnjeGtyaRjpesw46hufr9xsC56bMxJbfHFKFjrFVnoHh0o7ZStOUogFV7INCTOtMondJP4Wmn431PT58l6tHSVxw_zCztMI8/s1600/2020-02-20+17.28.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_LflfRWCIdTgaIRV7BUU_3FnE4-AwwktZEonDBrI3ZRotnjeGtyaRjpesw46hufr9xsC56bMxJbfHFKFjrFVnoHh0o7ZStOUogFV7INCTOtMondJP4Wmn431PT58l6tHSVxw_zCztMI8/s320/2020-02-20+17.28.08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It rolls on T gauge "pin point wheelsets" from <a href="http://tgauge.com/">TGauge.com</a>. The brake wheels are 3D printed, but the staff is 0.15mm brass wire. Couplers are true link-and-pin, they would have a loop of wire used and these cars would need to be semi-permanently coupled in sets (3 or 4 I'd think).<br />
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What's even cooler--I received a shipment of the "wider sleeper" version of the TGauge.com flextrack. Here's how it looks before (from the box) and after (installed with ballast and painting). Very reasonable looking, and I'm planning on making some dummy turnouts to work with this track soon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGkYHfSkCQurDOmo3rk9OOoJpK5ST5ewpkclUap5fLzvpev3_8aapo7FwyIGSGOq78MuECVgQ60GrG43RK7X7VXkFqmUrYpar39l_iQnE1MEpvAOYdOHnJYosEXEmV7bZPEWFQHpeweE/s1600/Narrow+Gauge+Track.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDGkYHfSkCQurDOmo3rk9OOoJpK5ST5ewpkclUap5fLzvpev3_8aapo7FwyIGSGOq78MuECVgQ60GrG43RK7X7VXkFqmUrYpar39l_iQnE1MEpvAOYdOHnJYosEXEmV7bZPEWFQHpeweE/s320/Narrow+Gauge+Track.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This lead to the discussions of 1:300 scale 3-foot gauge (a much more common narrow gauge) such as the former D&RGW lines and current Durango & Silverton and Cumbres & Toltec Scenic RR.<br />
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As a proof of concept of the 3-foot gauge on T track, I designed, test printed and built a 30' D&RGW boxcar. I now have the final revised version of the model printed, and on deck waiting to be built/painted, but here's the test model with piece-by-piece assembled decals...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfMQ0oWALuPhgkfgHe4h0KeK-UxJbeZr_SxJzFUVpKSBZOSLslwygbwhGS1YZjDd2K-KlPPZsLdfx2FGWfcQT9c36Kiv4kOVse6xFy3j2CFaasUKNj4DeFgQsVo8GxMUGjvH8T4y0yN5k/s1600/2020-02-26+16.10.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfMQ0oWALuPhgkfgHe4h0KeK-UxJbeZr_SxJzFUVpKSBZOSLslwygbwhGS1YZjDd2K-KlPPZsLdfx2FGWfcQT9c36Kiv4kOVse6xFy3j2CFaasUKNj4DeFgQsVo8GxMUGjvH8T4y0yN5k/s320/2020-02-26+16.10.48.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The finished model has brake wheels, truss rod underframe (there is a bending jig attached to the base of the kit to properly bend wire). And based on my experience with the test model's decals--it will need custom decals because piecing together letters was wayyyy to fiddly; I don't have the logo or really a good rendition of the dimensional data either. But the proof of concept worked--I'm moving forward with some modeling in 3-foot gauge.<br />
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So, the custom decal set will also include decals for a K-36. Yes a D&RGW narrow gauge Mikado is in the works. Design work is well on the way--see below. I am hoping to make it a powered version.. but that may take more time. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQewHRgUxTijHf9pyhnovm1lPWpZV1qpF3542DXj9TIYzSgOJ-1SqxshWWhO05KZImf8r1_5waxm7FkLUi36ql8gMbwgx9Cwa7zh55P4QEE8_Kcdq3FXwtvxKqIHGq8LazJul5BZUeFI/s1600/K-36+progress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="1187" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijQewHRgUxTijHf9pyhnovm1lPWpZV1qpF3542DXj9TIYzSgOJ-1SqxshWWhO05KZImf8r1_5waxm7FkLUi36ql8gMbwgx9Cwa7zh55P4QEE8_Kcdq3FXwtvxKqIHGq8LazJul5BZUeFI/s320/K-36+progress.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This kit will also include a bending jig to add stand-alone wire
piping to the model, which will go a long way to making it look
accurate. This is really another proof-of-concept since I haven't done
this before.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYyT9MPd6la0pmjaae42mOa9aDCxAdcckd-mYbFAlv5LAomvKu3uGy68DHswr0YOdzi5J5CFc4M4q40RlA-3hLMo5Y_hPxgylMOnJAspfxgWhVU4xhahoPjeEmkEYkOCs9MiAs-RWy20/s1600/K-36+bending+jig.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="771" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYyT9MPd6la0pmjaae42mOa9aDCxAdcckd-mYbFAlv5LAomvKu3uGy68DHswr0YOdzi5J5CFc4M4q40RlA-3hLMo5Y_hPxgylMOnJAspfxgWhVU4xhahoPjeEmkEYkOCs9MiAs-RWy20/s320/K-36+bending+jig.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lest you think I've gone 100% off the narrow gauge cliff, I'm still working on the Sharonville diorama (currently having ballast and ground cover added), and adding some pieces of rolling stock. I did a custom-painted C&O F7A for a client. Here it is almost finished, the final model has a yellow pilot--I just forgot to get the picture (duoh!). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOTpMRRemzCpm_e0B6kAxpTlZYplCueEkv2lVVTDPwIvWx47svQM6jOrO_Dlbzw9aLuxKXHprr1ylQIl3AB2hYBIyJk24Qxac1JvW8qNKAxJx-c1TUoUL_iQSvCa8Uf5gYrWDSCsgE_U/s1600/2020-03-05+14.47.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwOTpMRRemzCpm_e0B6kAxpTlZYplCueEkv2lVVTDPwIvWx47svQM6jOrO_Dlbzw9aLuxKXHprr1ylQIl3AB2hYBIyJk24Qxac1JvW8qNKAxJx-c1TUoUL_iQSvCa8Uf5gYrWDSCsgE_U/s320/2020-03-05+14.47.01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Well, enjoy your "social distancing" time at the workbench, and please stay safe and healthy out there! Hopefully we are back to (semi) normal by summer. <br />
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Until next time,<br />
JesseJessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-19397295101323509682020-02-03T07:06:00.000-08:002020-02-03T07:06:01.679-08:00February StatusI wanted to post an update on the status of several projects discussed in the previous posts, so without further ado, here we go!<br />
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<b> Conrail C40-8W:</b> After a verrry long wait for the etched handrails needed to complete this model (they were mis-addressed and floated in the postal system for a month or so..) I applied these delicate details and wrapped up the model. Well, sort of, because it's un-weathered and it's begging for at least some fading. Overall I think it turned out great. Decals were by CMR Products. <br />
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Oh, can you tell on the same frets as the handrails I had some PRR signal gantries etched. A little delicate to assemble but they look excellent. These are designed for the Princeton Jct. module planned for later this year.<br />
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There is also now a standard cab C40-8 available as well, although the etched handrails are not an exact match due to the large AC and battery boxes on the conductor's side of the 8W. <br />
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<b>Sharonville Engine Facility Project: </b>Slow but steady progress has been made on the Engine House, which is getting weathering and interior details. Engine shop details can be an exercise in futility, since there is so much "junk" ie tools, supplies, parts, etc. that are in these facilities. I could literally spend a year just adding details. So far I've made a boiler, air compressor, wheel lathe, and various parts and tanks, as well as interior wiring and piping, table, shelves, inspection gantrys, and a bench (painted NYC jade green). This is all "protolanced" as I have never seen an interior photo of this facility. I'm just guessing what they may have had laying around and the configuration. I also made 55 gallon drums-both lone and in groups on pallets, fuel oil (or kerosene) tanks, and scale wheelsets which will be added. (note, these detail parts are available as 3D printed items from CCE). <br />
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The yard and turntable pit area are also progressing, with about half the track being laid. Track is CCE scale roadbed which has prototype tie size and spacing and CCE dummy #10 turnouts (permanently lined straight with 3D printed diverging rails). All of this takes Code 40 rail in slots so it's closer to prototype rail height. <br />
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The turntable pit and engine house will be added soon as they integrate the rail. My technique for installing the track is to first pre-paint the roadbed--you can use primer since it will be painted again later--it's just hard to work with when it's clear. Next, slide the rails onto the roadbed/ties and test fit/trim. Then when it seems right, spread a very thin layer of Amy's Tacky Glue and use the T-pins to hold in alignment. You have some time to adjust the track with this glue. It will all be painted rail brown after dried, then the ballast can be applied. <br />
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<b>Adventures in Narrow Gauge: </b>Another modeler had contacted me to make some narrow gauge trucks (the arch bar trucks mentioned in the previous post). This expanded into making a piece of rolling stock for the railroad, the Gilpin Tramway or Gilpin Railroad. This has now expanded into my designing a Zn2 Shay locomotive (in the CAD stage) and doing serious research into Maine 2-footers like the Sandy River and Rangeley Lakes RR...THIS has expanded into discussion of ZZn3-- 1/300 scale 3-foot gauge using T-scale track, which would be the likes of the Durango & Silverton. or D&RGW.so I'm sure tempted. Lesson here: NARROW GAUGE IS A MODEL RAILROAD RABBIT HOLE! Be warned! Anyway, here's a picture of the first iteration (since revised a little) of the main ore car type used by the Gilpin Tramway:<br />
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I hope everyone's doing well and as always if you have any questions please feel free to contact me at ccetrains@gmail.com <br />
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<b><i>-- Jesse </i></b>Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-178456837841972019.post-19416780149503435442020-01-06T09:00:00.000-08:002020-01-06T09:00:32.857-08:00New Year's Updates<b>Happy New Year ! </b>to all the T scale enthusiasts<b> </b>or otherwise curious spectators who read my Blog. Despite all the family and friend activities over the past weeks, I have managed to do some modeling and wanted to pass along some updates on projects and new designs. In no particular order, then, here we go:<br />
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<b>Sharonville Engine House:</b> The engine house is taking shape. Walls have been assembled and a base constructed out of styrene around the 3D printed inspection pits. I am building it with a rudimentary interior, so I have also added I-beam trusses (Plastruct) and 1mm square supports, along with an interior wall where the office/storage area will be. Door were added, and they are movable (although only anchored to the top).. I might revise the design somewhat to allow better hinges. I also purchased some pico LED's (the verry tiny ones) in order to add a few lights, and have added a coat of black paint on the interior walls to act as a light barrier. <br />
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The structure fits into a foam base that is made out of styrofoam (not the good dense kind, but it will do..) glued onto scrap 3/4 inch plywood. The whole thing fits on a 8x14 inch sheet of paper! The turntable pit outline, engine house outline, and associated trackage centerlines were traced onto the foam. First, I printed the current Google Map of the location to scale, which shows the remnants of the old trackage and building as well as the still extant turntable. Then, I rubbed some black chalk on the back of the paper, lay it on top of the foam, then traced the lines with the rounded end of a hobby brush.<br />
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"Excavation" was done with a hobby knife, and the turntable pit is test-fit.<br />
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<b>Metra MP36 and Gallery Cars:</b> The first iteration models aka pre-production samples are in-hand, and as of this writing I have actually revised the gallery cars to allow better mechanism fit. I also designed a new prototype-size front (dummy) coupler that can be dropped-in, since the CCE one looks a bit too chunky for these sexy engines, and won't be used anyway. This can be used on any CCE model with a standard CCE coupler pocket--for photography, etc.<br />
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Matt at <a href="https://circusdecals.ecwid.com/" target="_blank">Circus City Decals</a> did a special batch of the Milwaukee Road MP36
and the gallery car decals for me as well. The registration on the MP36
stripe decals was very slightly off as you can see in the pictures, but I think I can still work with them by trimming. The rest of the decals are fine, especially the white logos which there's no way I can do at home. Note that I talked to him about the registration and it's (unfortunately) a limitation of
the equipment. I might yet try printing my own stripes since they are are
fairly dark. Improvise/adapt/overcome. <br />
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<b>Custom Narrow Gauge Arch Bar Trucks:</b> These arch-bar trucks were custom made for a fellow who models in Zn2 scale (2 foot gauge 1:220 scale) that runs on T-gauge track. He is a fantastic modeler and whatever he puts on top of these you can rest assured will be superb. <br />
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<b>Other news: </b>I'm still waiting on a shipment of etched parts for the C40 and turntable which shipped around Thanksgiving from the UK. They were somehow lost in transit but then found (mysteriously and/or coincidentally) after I started tracking them. So, there should be some cool tiny parts on display soon, since this includes handrails and a PRR signal gantry for the upcoming Princeton Jct. model. I also have the redesigned Amfleet coach (with scale size corrugations) in hand and will be doing a test painting of it soon.<br />
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As always, if you have any questions, requests, or comments please reach out to me at ccetrains@gmail.com.<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><i>-Jesse </i></span><br />
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<br />Jessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11055336780757406733noreply@blogger.com0