"T"ools of the "T"rade

 I wanted to pass along some of my favorite tools and tips acquired over the several years of T-scale modeling.  Hopefully you will find this of use in producing high-quality models with as little frustration as possible.  One note: I don't endorse any particular brands, unless noted. 

Ultrasonic Cleaner:  Since most of my models are 3D printed, and the printing process at my preferred service bureau (Shapeways) leaves a waxy residue, all models must be thoroughly cleaned before assembly and painting.  Shapeways does clean the models, but invariably there is still some gunk on them when they arrive.  Some modelers use the solvent Bestine to further clean models, but I don't really need this, preferring not to stink up the house or dip my mits into toxic fluids -- Instead I utilize an ultrasonic cleaner with a warm bath of water with a drop of dish-washing detergent.  The cheap ultrasonic cleaner I have, I found used on Ebay for $20, and is the kind used for jewelry.  No need to go high-end here.  I give models a couple cycles in warm soapy water, once in warm clean water, then a nice rinse-- over a bowl stretched with old panty-hose to catch any parts that might fall off.

Micro Fiberglass Brush Tool:   After I clean a model, I will usually give it a coat of primer--and then inspect the surface for more gunk that may not have come off, or just layering/artifacts from 3D printing.  There is typically a bit of clean-up and sanding needed, and the micro fiberglass "pen" is really great for cleaning and abrading small surfaces and getting into tight areas.  One word of caution--these tools shed fiberglass fibers, so wear a mask and keep a vacuum close-by to get rid of the nasty little hairs.  I'm sure breathing them in isn't good for anyone.

Microbrushes:  These are useful for many things; odd paint jobs, cleaning airbrushes, applying decal solvent..  Beware:  Some of the cheaper brands use an adhesive to adhere the bristles that is susceptible to solvents--this can be a problem if you use with lacquer paints or other solvent-based paints or coatings;  I use acrylic almost exclusively so don't worry about it much, but still prefer the "original" microbrush if you can find them.

Disposable Pipettes:  Mainly for use in painting and mixing for the airbrush--get your ratio of thinner to paint accurate.  Get a big bag for a few dollars, they will last for a long time.  Also useful for micro-basting chicken breasts in the pot.

Etch Bending Jig:  Photoetched brass or steel parts (PE) can be a bit of a pain to get looking correct if you don't use one of these to bend them.  They help keep bends straight/square and even along long surfaces.  I wouldn't even try doing the hopper ends without one of them!  You can also use them to flatten out a piece that has gotten bent, press-style.  This is a small one made in China I found on Ebay, good enough for T-scale;  You may want a bigger one if you model in other scales as well.

While we're talking about PE, definitely get a pair of PE snippers like these by Xuron.  They allow you to trim PE close to the details.  Another tip is to use the steel base of the bending jig as a solid surface upon which to precisely trim PE with a hobby knife (expect the blade to get dulled quickly however).  Trimming on the solid surface will keep the PE from getting deformed. 

Toothpicks: Ahhh yes, the toothpick is indispensable!  Use them for moving decals around, for holding models for handling (as pictured), for making coupler pics, for applying glues, martinis, and a million other uses.  Get a big box for a buck a your local grocery store.

 

In other news:  I'm due for an update on new models and projects and will be posting that in the near future.  Many exciting projects from rolling stock to structures, too many to mention here.  In the meantime, I hope all my fellow T-scale enthusiasts have a great and safe holiday, and let's hope Santa or a Festivus pal leaves you a 1:450 train under the tree!    - Jesse