Just a quick post to pass along some experience I've acquired using magnets as "weight" in T-gauge rolling stock. I was penning an email to a fellow modeler on the subject and thought I should just share this.. so here we go:
As most of you know, the physics of T-gauge (and other small scale railway models) is quite challenging. Un-powered rolling stock models are typically so low mass, even with weight added, that they are extremely difficult to keep on the track. Locomotives get around this with magnetized wheels. Weight can be added to your other stock, but the size is so small that you can't really add enough in most cases. Several years ago I came upon neodymium magnets--rare earth magnets that are very strong for their size. I found they could be purchased in sizes that could be concealed in T-gauge rolling stock so got some to experiment with. I've since found my favorites and have been pleased with the results.
I use two sizes/styles:
- 1/16in diameter 1/32 in thick cylinders. (https://www.kjmagnetics.com/
proddetail.asp?prod=D101-N52) - 3/16in x 3/16in x 1/32in thick squares (blocks) (https://www.kjmagnetics.com/
proddetail.asp?prod=B3301)
When I design models I provide recessed areas for the magnet; In theory one could drill holes I suppose.
Here is a 3-bay hopper. Note the spine of the car has cylindrical cut-outs for the magnets. The magnets install flush with the spine to allow for a profile that hides them--not that many people are down at trackside view at 1:450 though. With paint they are basically invisible.
Here's a passenger car frame set up for the block magnet. It will invisible when installed as part of the frame.
Installation can be tricky due to the size and strength of the magnets. Get a pair of
plastic tweezers because any tweezers of ferrous metal won't be able to "drop" the
magnets. Are there non-ferrous tweezers? And the installations like the hopper are tough because the second magnet always wants to jump to the first one.. but it can be done.
To secure them, I
secure with Krystal Klear -or- UV cured adhesive (or ACC) when speed is needed. Notice how the magnet is invisible after installation.
How well do they work? Pretty well! I don't want the pull force to be so much that the car isn't movable, but you also want it to hold the car to the tracks. Frame height is the rule of thumb for me.
Here's the hopper car
with two round magnets securing it. Note how the car is tipped about 30 degrees and doesn't fall off the rails. But it still rolls nicely.
I hope this helps!
I'll be publishing a new update in a week or so with some other news and follow-up on my various projects. - Jesse