May Modeling

Here it is, close to the end of May already!  Where does the time go?  At least with pandemic "Shelter in Place" orders us modelers have something good to do, and I hope you've found this time productive.  I know I have!  Here are a few updates on some old-- and new-- projects.

D&RGW K-36:  The K-36 Mikado project continues.  This has been a fantastic learning experience for me.  Not only is it in a new scale (1:300 although it uses T-gauge track) it's my first steam locomotive.  Steam locos have so many details compared to diesels, so I have had to learn more about them in general, the whys and wherefores of the various piping and fittings, air compressors, crossheads, drive and connecting rods, etc., but also enhanced my techniques to be able to produce a good model.  For example, the K-36 will have several add-on etched parts.  It also needed accurate decals (along with the 30' boxcar), none of which are available and are in white-which cannot be printed on an inkjet at home.  So I've "upped my game" in several areas.  I have taught myself Inkscape in order to better draft etch and decal artwork for a custom printer. 

As of 5/26 the second iteration of prototypes has been received and further refinements to the model design have been done.  Here's the latest version sans cab (a victim of my "constructive destruction" process to identify weak spots).  It's also missing stirrup steps on the tender, back up light, number boards, and some piping all for the same reason.  No worries, these areas have been addressed along with some other refinements. 

 

I also made a video to demonstrate the free-rolling nature of the drivers.  These are 3D printed acrylic, however I also have brass versions coming.  It will be interesting to see how they compare, but the 3D versions are actually acceptable to me (surprisingly). 

As a side note, the 1:300 scale 30' D&RGW boxcar final version was test assembled and custom designed decals (from CCE Models) are applied.   My only "beef" is that I used 0.15mm wire for the truss rods.. I need to find some finer material because they are a little too beefy.  Again, a set of custom decals was made for this, and will be included in the kit from CCE Models.

Metra Gallery Cars:  I completed a test model of the Metra (ex CB&Q) Budd gallery cab car.  This is a powered model and will go with the MP36 model that is not yet decorated (soon..!)  Window glass is accomplished using my clear decal film technique.  There is also a coach version (does not have the engineer's window and horn).

 
GP40-2W:  As mentioned in a previous post, a fellow modeler who is working on a Canadian prototype layout requested some rolling stock appropriate for his needs.  I designed a GP40-2W (based upon the existing GP40-2 model) and it's now available.  Also, I designed some "tiger stripe" Canadian National decals in order for it to be accurately decorated.

 

CN-Via CO7/8 Coach:  The aforementioned modeler also requested a very common coach found around Toronto, and being intrigued by the challenge I obliged.   The model comes with a rudimentary interior.  On the list is a set of appropriate decals for VIA and CN.

 

DOT-111 Tank Car:  Tank cars being so common I have wanted to model one in T for some time, however until I got into the etching of parts for the K-36 it sat on the back burner.  Here is an earlier design--the current is somewhat modified from this--that illustrates what is nearing completion.  The prototype is loosely based on those made by Greenbriar (but very similar to others) with a capacity of 29,000 gallons.  The etch kit will come with optional end shields which are applied as required for transport of crude oil.

Other Odds-and-Ends.. Sharonville diorama received a little work, but has been somewhat neglected due to all the design work and rolling stock work.  I did some tests of "snow scenes" and found that deep snow can be effectively modeled in T using common spackling paste--painted with matte white after it dried and received a light sanding.  Very light snow "a dusting" can be achieved with a light spray of white primer (I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer).  You can see the deep snow effect in the D&RGW boxcar picture above, or here just after painting:

Whew, reading over this I'm going to be challenged to keep up the pace.  But it's all good fun!  Until next time-- Jesse

A T-Gauge Public Service Message: Replacing Tension Springs

(Note: I will provide a post on the many projects underway at a later date).

You aren't a real "T-Gauger" until you've shot one (or several) of the tiny bogie tension springs into the cavernous void while trying to replace them.  Well, here's the technique I use to facilitate re-attaching them.

Of course re-attachment assumes you have either a.) gotten down on your hands and knees and searched the expanse for the little buggers, and by some miracle found it,  b.) gave up and then weeks later found it sitting among several paint jars along with dust, spilled ballast rocks, and dead flies, or c.) broke down and bought the replacements, which are packaged in excruciatingly small quantities-- giving rise to further anxiety over then losing these and having to order more.

Step 1:  Locate the spring (see above)

Step 2:  Thread a bit of wire--a pliable strand from some typical wire is good--through the coils of the spring, not through the round ends.

Step 3:  Create a loop with the wire, and add a bit of tape so you can see it and add some weight.  It's also useful to help hold it.

Step 4:  Install the spring on the chassis, securing both ends.  To do this, you'll want some tweezers to aid the process.  Don't panic--you won't be able to shoot the spring across the room anymore or if you do, you'll be able to see it.  The wire loop stays inside the spring.

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Step 5:  Cut the wire with some snips and remove.

And there ya go.