T-Scale Track

The out-of-scale ties and tie spacing on the stock flex (and sectional) track was always a shortcoming of T-scale..  I developed a flexible tie strip system that, when combined with Code 40 rail available at TGauge.com, and ballasting and weathering, can produce respectable looking North American style track such as this:

Here's an example of the (painted and ballasted) stock flex track.. not great eh?.

 
It's ok--but not a great representation of North American railroad track as seen here.

When TGauge.com started selling their code 40 rail, I started thinking I might be able to craft some decent looking tie strips to use with the rail to better create accurate tie size and spacing.

I had a couple prototype tie strips made, and the latest results are very promising.  I intend to use this system to make a working module/diorama in the future. Here's a short test strip I made and painted;  Compare this to the stock flex track and prototype:

 The tie strips were made in Shapeways Finest Detail Plastic material;  Since it was a test, I made strips only 10 cm long, however they can be added together to make as long as you need (the code 40 rail comes in 50 cm lenths).   For printing--I will lengthen them to whatever is reasonably printable in Shapeways for the price.  Here's what it looks like after trimming from the sprue:

I'm obviously still trying to figure out the best technique for this track but here's what I have so far.

1.  Prep:  Wash the strips as with any 3D printed model.  First, using a soft brush I wash with acrylic airbrush thinner (it cuts the acrylic "goo" remaining on printed models), then wash gently in soapy water.  Let dry thoroughly.

2.  I give a brush coat of Future. 

(The above two steps apply to all my 3D printed models from Shapeways).

3.  Trim the sprues and any broken ties off and arrange in as straight a line as possible.  (I will be getting some double sided tape to use for this step to hold ties in place, but it's not necessary.)

4.  Get a rail and using the first section of ties, hold the rail in tweezers and gently press into the slot in the ties.  Make sure the "fat side" of the rail (look at the cross section) is down.  It should click into place with a tiny bit of pressure.

5.. Continue to the end of the rail, arranging more ties (even onesy-twosey) and click into place.

6.  Repeat for the 2nd rail.

7.  Apply another coat of Future which gently adheres the rail to the ties.  Here's the end result:

...  The rest is un-tested...

Sections should be joined by rail joiners or soldered.  Not sure what soldering would do to the ties, so heat sinks should be used.  The strips appear flexible enough to bend to a prototypical radius, but I haven't tried to see how tight it will curve.  I plan to adhere the track strips with a good contact cement to the roadbed.  Ballast can be applied using conventional techniques.