Monday, December 18, 2023

Fall-Winter 2023

In Shops Now... CCE Models Products

This fall I began supplying CCE brand kits and parts to two retailers:  TGauge.com (with worldwide distribution) and Fusion Scale Hobbies in the USA.  So far, this inventory is of CCE couplers, some passenger car kits (the Budd fluted-side Parlor Car and a CN smooth-side coach) plus the TrainMaster (N&W and some other versions).  Check out these retailers and inquire about CCE products if you don't see stock.  While you're at it--buy a few FP9s and 6-axle powered, and adjustable chassis to stock up.  And the Pin-Point wheelsets.. buy a 20 or 100 pack as there are several freight cars and an F7B coming that will need them.  Remember, if you want to see more new products in this new scale, the manufacturers need to see support.  I purchased a couple Class 67s even though I don't model UK!  They are still great models to own.

Other developments:  

As mentioned, the Budd fluted-side parlor car (PRR design), a CN lightweight coach and a CN baggage car have all been shipped to the shops noted above and fit the Adjustable Chassis.  The CN cars closely resemble those of other roads if you aren't too picky.  Just decorate them appropriately--the following may be helpful:

A decal set is available for the passenger cars that has markings for multiple companies and can be used on any of the cars.  Fusion and TGauge.com both should have these in stock.

 


Several new road-specific versions of the TrainMaster have been made, including SP, Reading, Southern Railway, and Virginian, along with decals. I'll be sending a couple of each to the retailers.  The N&W model is in stock at Fusion currently and should be at TGauge.com as well.

Hoppers old and new:  I designed a new 80-ton open hopper and re-designed the 100-ton open hopper to go along with the N&W Train Master.   Here's the N&W 80-tonner showing the end bracing--all 3D printed and robust enough to not break very easily.


 

I also did a refresh of the ACF 4750 cu ft covered hopper (a la PRR-Conrail H-45) so it's 100% 3D printed including end bracing and ladders.  This saves the trouble of bending the etch which was quite difficult to get right.  The details and contours were also improved.


 

 WP&Y Layout Update:

The lake (Bernard Lake) has been poured!  I used Woodland Scenics "murky water" with the lake bed painted with WS olive drab and tan shoreline, with a blend between the two done with airbrush.  Overall it was pretty easy and took two full pours (about 2 pints).  The shoreline has the usual surface tension thing that happens with these poured resin waters...  I may play around with some matte finish to mitigate the leeching effect and build up the shore ground texture a bit near the water.  The background rock and foliage was airbrushed with some light gray to blend it with the backdrop, which was printed by a friend in a continuous strip.  Overall, I am satisfied with the effect of looking across a wide lake with forced perspective.  Now to finish the foreground scenery adding some trees, etc. install the Fraser water tank/station.. then run some trains!  I need to paint up a pair of the DL535Es...


This has been another year of tremendous growth for T gauge, and I think 2024 will be even better!  I hope everyone has a great holiday season, and look forward to more modeling in the New Year.

 Until next time! 

 - Jesse  (email any questions or requests to me at ccetrains "at" gmail)

Tuesday, August 15, 2023

Late Summer '23 Update

In Shops Now... an RTR CN FP9!

The big news of the summer is the release of a North American prototype locomotive that is fully decorated and ready to run: an EMD FP9 in the classic Canadian National "tiger stripe" livery.   I worked with the manufacturer of T Gauge models in China to get this extremely accurate 1:450 scale model to market.  It was quietly released in late July and is currently in stock at TGauge.com.  

Here's a pic out of the box, albeit with a flush pilot insert w. CCE coupler.

 

These are 3D printed and so are not quite as strong as an injection-molded body.  This is important when doing any modifications as the shells can (and will) crack if squeezed or pushed too hard.  I'm amazed at the painting and printing--colors are opaque, separations crisp, and the number boards are legible.   

 I'm currently finalizing a super detail kit for the FP9 that will make it just a bit more accurate for us rivet-counters.  It includes:

  • Pilot insert with a CCE (or scale) coupler
  • CCE couplers that plug into the standard coupler draft gear on the trucks
  • Fuel tank cover
  • Blomberg truck sideframes
  • Clear inserts for the windshield, cab windows and portholes.  
Given the size of the model, it goes without saying that these details take a bit of patience to add, but the end result is worth it.  Here is the windshield insert being test-fit.  Note it's secured with a tiny bead of Krystal Klear around the edges.  The RTR FP9 model actually has a fairly thick layer of paint, therefore the fit of the windows has to be a little more relaxed.  Ask me how I found this out, a couple broken shells later...

 

Here are the cab windows and portholes installed.

Other developments:  

In order to have something appropriate for the FP9 to pull, I've made getting some passenger cars to the TGauge shop a priority.  I have a Budd fluted-side parlor car (PRR design), a CN lightweight coach and a CN baggage car that have all been updated to accommodate the Adjustable Chassis.

 I also have an F9B that can be used between two powered  FP9's to make A-B-A or A-B-B-A lashups.  And decals.


In addition, here's a Budd bi-level gallery car in SP colors along one of the H24-66 locomotives being developed.  I have the decals for the SP Train Master and need to get to painting it.  A nice layout of San Francisco commuter trains could be possible!

3D Printing Developments: New Resins and Blends 

The biggest project of the summer has been adapting to some new resin blends.  3D printed models using the standard Phrozen Aqua 8K resin are pretty tough, but could still use some additional strength.  I read about a blend of Aqua 8K and Onyx Impact Plus resins, and after a bit of trial and error work I got the blend dialed in on my printer.  It's now my standard as it's quite a bit stronger than the Aqua 8K by itself.

I was advised to try another resin--Sunlu ABS-Like resin--because it's supposed to be strong/flexible and takes good detail.  As a bonus, it comes in clear.  This opens up the possibility of doing locos in clear and masking off the windshields for a one-piece model.  We'll see how it performs in tests.

I also experimented with Voxelab transparent and Onyx Impact Plus to make a smoke-clear resin to use for windows.   So far I am happy with the results.

WP&Y Layout Update:

The layout is progressing, the mile 5-6 segment is mostly complete, the Fraser side is coming along.  I've added a depression for the lake, and will be trying one of Woodland Scenics water products in it.  It's been painted in olive drab and yellow near the banks.  Some rock/scenery also has been added, and a rough draft of the backdrop printed.



For those of you who have made it this far.. here's a little gift from CCE Models:

Free Plug-in Style CCE Coupler STL file 

The CCE coupler is a much more accurate representation of the "Janney" knuckle coupler than the stock T Gauge couplers for us North American (or Australia/NZ/S. Am.) modelers.  These CCE couplers will plug into the stock coupler pocket on T gauge locomotives or rolling stock.  They do not require the spring.  There are 3 different sizes that can be used where longer or shorter drawbars are needed. 

If you want the RTR couplers, I intend to make sets available at TGauge.com.  

But you can download and print these yourself (for non-commercial use only and there is no re-distribution or modification allowed without my permission.)  You will need to have the equipment and expertise to print them.  That being said, I recommend printing using a strong, high-detail resin (I print at 20um, using 80/20 blend of Phrozen Aqua 8K/Onyx Impact Plus).  Other resins may work.  Also, my experience is that Shapeways print materials are not strong enough for these couplers.

I wanted to make these available for free as an incentive to help us modelers achieve more realistic T-scale trains for the non-European/Japanese markets.

 Until next time! 

 - Jesse  (email any questions or requests to me at ccetrains "at" gmail)

Thursday, May 4, 2023

Magnetic Weight


Just a quick post to pass along some experience I've acquired using magnets as "weight" in T-gauge rolling stock.   I was penning an email to a fellow modeler on the subject and thought I should just share this.. so here we go:
 
As most of you know, the physics of T-gauge (and other small scale railway models) is quite challenging.  Un-powered rolling stock models are typically so low mass, even with weight added, that they are extremely difficult to keep on the track.  Locomotives get around this with magnetized wheels.  Weight can be added to your other stock, but the size is so small that you can't really add enough in most cases.   Several years ago I came upon neodymium magnets--rare earth magnets that are very strong for their size.  I found they could be purchased in sizes that could be concealed in T-gauge rolling stock so got some to experiment with.  I've since found my favorites and have been pleased with the results.

Where do you get them?  There are several suppliers, but I (in the US) get mine from K&J Magnetics. 

I use two sizes/styles:
When I design models I provide recessed areas for the magnet;  In theory one could drill holes I suppose.  
 
Here is a 3-bay hopper.  Note the spine of the car has cylindrical cut-outs for the magnets.  The magnets install flush with the spine to allow for a profile that hides them--not that many people are down at trackside view at 1:450 though.  With paint they are basically invisible. 
 
Here's a passenger car frame set up for the block magnet.  It will invisible when installed as part of the frame.
 
 

Installation can be tricky due to the size and strength of the magnets.  Get a pair of plastic tweezers because any tweezers of ferrous metal won't be able to "drop" the magnets.  Are there non-ferrous tweezers?  And the installations like the hopper are tough because the second magnet always wants to jump to the first one.. but it can be done.

To secure them, I secure with Krystal Klear -or- UV cured adhesive (or ACC) when speed is needed.  Notice how the magnet is invisible after installation.
 


 
How well do they work?  Pretty well!  I don't want the pull force to be so much that the car isn't movable, but you also want it to hold the car to the tracks.  Frame height is the rule of thumb for me.  
 
Here's the hopper car with two round magnets securing it. Note how the car is tipped about 30 degrees and doesn't fall off the rails.  But it still rolls nicely.

I hope this helps!  

I'll be publishing a new update in a week or so with some other news and follow-up on my various projects.  - Jesse

Tuesday, March 28, 2023

1Q 2023: More Projects than Time

CCE Models:  If you're interested in an older CCE model printed by Shapeways, feel free to email me.  I have a bunch of old prints that I'm willing to part with for basically the cost of shipping since the resin I'm using now is so far superior in terms of finish and durability.  I'm also going through old designs and revising them with better details or improved fit/finish, making the old models obsolete.  For example, I'll be re-doing the bi-level gallery cars, the 1:450 hoppers, and more.  I'm also semi-seriously thinking about doing some retail kits--I made some sample FP7 kits (shell and decals) in a few roads.  Feel free to inquire, as these would be excellent test models to practice on or just a bargain, if you're willing to go with the older material.

3D Printing:  I did successful tests of the clear Voxlab resin for windows in a CN lightweight coach as well as the 1:300 coach and DL535E.  The windows are very satisfyingly flush, and easy to install compared to my other techniques--Krystal Klear and clear decal film.  I'm setting up my 3D workshop with two separate vats:  One for Aqua 8K Gray, and one for Clear.  Saves time cleaning, etc.  I did my first FEP change-out as well, and thanks to YouTube for the easy-to-follow instructions!




T Scale Narrow Body (GP38) Chassis:  This is still on the back burner;  I've been working on models that are "drop on" for the existing chassis for now, like the H24-66 (see below).  To be continued...

New and Improved T Scale FP7/9):  The RTR FP9 model is still in development, some back-and-forth regarding paint schemes.  In the meantime, as mentioned I have some FP7 kits (shell and decals) put together.  If you want one, email me.  $10 each plus shipping.  Roadnames: B&O, SCL, MILW.  I've been refreshing the passenger cars that would be good pulled behind these, such as the CN lightweight coach, a Budd lightweight stainless steel coach, and the Gallery cars.

FM H24-66 "Train Master":  The experience with the DL535E on the 6-axle chassis lead to the thought of doing a "drop on" shell for the chassis in T-scale.  Fairbanks Morse's Train Master locomotive dimensions are close enough, and the prototype already has a slightly thicker hood than EMD or Alco locomotives, so I decided to test one.  It came together well, and the oversize hood thickness doesn't detract.  I'm testing some different paint schemes (Reading, N&W, and SP) and if you're interested in getting a kit for one of these, let me know--I'll probably do them similarly to the FP7.


Mn3 Rolling Stock: I finished up the two hopper designs and painted up one of each;  I will be testing some EBT rolling stock at a future date.  I have two DL535Es on the workbench just waiting for paint.

WP&Y Layout Update:  Scenery is almost done on the Bridge 6B side;  Many more trees and bushes from Dan at Scenerytime and a backdrop have been installed.  Rock was weathered with several washes of different colors to try capture the varied coloration from lichen, water, and dirt that washes down the faces.

 Track also got some weathering with dark gray chalks.

I also finished up the Fraser Water Tank/station.  This is 3D printed with some details added.  The ropes to raise/lower the spout are 0.13mm Tungsten wire.

Seems like the blog is taking on a "Quarterly" format so look for an update sometime this summer.  

- Jesse  (email any questions or requests to me at ccetrains "at" gmail)

Friday, January 20, 2023

New Years Update

Happy New Year Everyone!  It's time for an update on the T-gauge projects from myself and CCE Models.

CCE Models Availability:  I stopped selling through the website because I'm not really interested in selling as a commercial enterprise--I feel like I would have to make a bigger commitment of time than I'm able to make to "do it right".  I'm really just a modeler and enthusiastic T-gauger and occasionally I will sell a model or two, or some decals, to my fellow modelers.  Furthermore, the market is just not big enough for me to justify anything more than that right now.  That being said, I'm in discussions with a retailer who would stock up on a few of my kits and sell them.  All that being said, if you are interested in buying some models, feel free to email me and I'll do my best to accommodate you. 

3D Printing:  All production is now on the 3D printer and I'm pretty well dialed in.  It may still take multiple iterations of a print to get it right between supports and the model design itself but I'm refining my skills.  My printer (as mentioned before) is a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K, and I really love this machine.  Game changer.  I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K resin with excellent results.  I have two new resins I need to test:  One is a clear resin (think: windows,etc) and the other is a rubber-like resin.

T Scale Narrow Body (GP38) Chassis:  This project is in hiatus while I work on some others.  It will go back to the top of the list before very long.

New and Improved T Scale FP7 (or FP9):  There is something in the works with a model manufacturer that will hopefully see the FP9 produced commercially as an RTR model within the year.  I gave them license to the design and am acting as consultant on the project.  For this reason I'm holding off selling the shells but I have several test models on the workbench.  Speaking of my workbench--it's a nightmare!  

I have a couple test models on the workbench--here's a PRR FP7.


Mn3 Rolling Stock:  I have several new designs that are completed for M scale (1:300) narrow gauge rolling stock;  Two hoppers and a coach.  The hoppers are totally new designs but were found on the WP&Y.  The first is an ex-CN longitudinal hopper, the other is an ex-East Broad Top hopper.  For the EBT hopper I have also made decals for the original owner as well as Durango & Silverton and WP&Y.  I am making these with some details I hadn't tried in the past in such a small scale, such as grab irons, and believe it or not they are printing successfully and are robust enough to withstand handling.  


I also refreshed my WP&Y narrow gauge coach (technically Combination Smoker, Numbers 214 & 216).  Originally this model had etched brass sides because Shapeways couldn't print smoothly enough.  My PSM8K is up to the task however and the sides are now integrated and have somewhat better detail around the windows and belt.  The troublesome part is the truss rods... I'm testing some alternate ways to achieve this using the printer, but may end up using etched brass in the end.  These are two test models, still not completed with the design:


WP&Y Layout Update:  The layout is progressing slowly as I refine techniques.  

Trackwork:  First an update on the track-laying technique.   Recall my note about the tendency of the T-gauge flexitrack to twist on curves, especially tight curves?  Well I noticed some sections where the track has pulled up and twisted a bit after ballasting, and kinked at a joint.  I think the wetting from ballasting loosened the glue holding the track down and allowed it to move slightly.  It's not very noticeable, but in the future I will hold down all curved track with Liquid Nails construction adhesive, or other waterproof cement.

I did power up the loop and spent several days running to-and-fro making sure there was continuity and trains ran properly.  It's really a short loop and I didn't even bother with extra feeders.  

Ballast is down around the layout now, and I'm starting scenery using a variety of ground foams and broken up hydrocal as boulders.  To be honest, scenery isn't my forte and I'm testing/refining along the way.


 

As I will need a bunch of them, I tested several ready-made (yet affordable) pine tree sources, and ultimately found an excellent one:  Dan at Scenerytime, who sells on Ebay.  The trees and bushes are excellent--see the pic below.  These pine trees (regular and dark) are much better than the others I have found that just look like bottle brushes.  Well worth checking out.  Note: The far right tree is a Scotch Pine (iirc) from a UK architectural supplier. 

Until the next installment, best wishes and Keep on Modeling! 

-Jesse


 

 

 



Tuesday, September 27, 2022

Late September T-Scale Mega Update

 It's time for an update on my T-gauge antics!  Despite the "summer fun" I have been very busy.  Let's see.. where to start.

3D Printer:  The 3D printer (a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K) has turned out to be one of the best investments I have made in this hobby.  After years of slow turn-around, fragile parts, and not-so-great resolution using Shapeways, this printer is absolutely the shizzle.  I have done a host of projects since the test pieces previously discussed.  Most importantly, I'm becoming pretty familiar with the materials and settings needed to create good models.  The new SLA resins for the 3D printer were first tested and put to use on the parts Shapeways FUD material was most ill-suited for:  Trucks and couplers.  A series of tests of my existing designs of roller bearing, Bettendorf, narrow gauge passenger trucks proved the new materials--particularly one called TGM-7--was ideal for these parts. It's tough, somewhat flexible, and very detailed.   The couplers were next, and I made some tweaks to improve them while I was at it.  The coupler and shank can now be replaced in the draft gear.  The result is the CCE MkIV coupler, really the best so far.  Note: the old CCE couplers are still compatible, but are really fragile.

T Scale Narrow Body (GP38) Chassis:  Priorities... One of the issues getting the GP38 finalized has been the trucks (bogies for you non-Americans).  The trucks need to be able to reliably conduct electricity from the rails to the motor while also being able to transmit tractive effort from the drive to the rails.  The original bogie design is actually ingenious at doing this, despite those difficult to manage springs.  I had been trying to invent a new design using wipers and dispensing with the springs, with some success.  But I never got it accomplished reliably;  One issue with the process is that etching new metal parts (wipers/contacts) required a months-long turn-around for each iteration.  In the end, I decided in the name of speed I would just adapt the standard truck design to work with the narrow chassis.  The hitch had been the non-prototypical sideframes (the KIHA design).  Some find that acceptable but it wasn't good enough for me;  My practice has been to sand down the sideframes and glue on Blomberg sideframes.  Well, even that wasn't good enough, so I designed Blomberg trucks that accept the TGauge contacts and wheelsets.  This was no simple feat, and took a multitude of iterations to get right, but it's done.  So, using these new Blomberg trucks, what was the first "complete" locomotive to be?   Not a GP38, that can wait.

New and Improved FP7 (or FP9):  The actual EMD FP7 truck-center spacing closely matches the spacing on the stock 35mm chassis, and I had previously designed a shell to fit it.  This shell wasn't as detailed as my more recent models, but it's such an "easy" adaptation that I figured that this update would be the first CCE model to get the new Blomberg trucks.  This actually turned into a rather large project over the course of weeks.  I updated the design and details, and even made several versions based on the detailing variations for different roads:

  • Pennsylvania RR (as built with Trainfone antenna)
  • PRR and Penn Central (late with no antenna and cut-away skirts)
  • Milwaukee Road
  • Chesapeake & Ohio (later B&O)
  • Seaboard Cost Line
  • Canadian National (FP9) 

Another cool thing is I added capability for a 0402 LED for lighting.  And while the shell has a large cut-out in the pilot for the stock coupler, there's also an insert for those who want the better appearance of the MkIV coupler.  There's even a semi-scale coupler (non functional) coupler.

Above is the FP7 using the standard chassis, LED adapter and LED installed, and MkIV coupler and pilot insert.  

Here it is running (sound effect added--it doesn't have sound.. yet!): 



Below is the CN FP9 body shell.


I'm planning on making several kits (FP7 shell, trucks, LED and pilot adapters, couplers and decals) available through TGauge.com by later this fall (November 2022).  An RTR version may be available soon as well.  Stay tuned!

DL535E Update: While we're talking about locomotives, check out the last prototype of the DL535E.  This rides on a stock 6-axle chassis, with 3D printed Tri-mount sideframes added, and brass side handrails.  End handrails and the body are 3D printed.  I have decals but have not gotten around to paint and decals yet.  There are special elongated MkIV couplers for the model as well.


WP&Y Layout Update:  The layout has been progressing and track has finally been laid to complete the loop.  In the course of doing this I have developed a way to improve the appearance of the TGauge track.  This is the "wider sleeper flextrack".  Here are the steps to get track laid prior to painting/ballasting:

1. Using a heavy blade, remove the large nail adapters by snipping the web under the rail on both sides, flush with the adjacent tie:

2. Clean up the ties with a fine knife:
3.  Connect flextrack with joiners or adapters, and use T-pins and thumbtacks to hold in place.
4. Apply 50-50 water-carpenters glue to affix. At this point I will also slide in extra ties under the joints or wherever else is needed.
Here's how the rail looks when painted.

 

Curves: Either use plain joiners and solder joints or use the provided connector adapters;  I have done both and given the nature of the rail (it is stiff and wants to twist) there's no perfect solution, yet.  The adapters need to be cleaned up themselves--I snip the end ties off then drill out the web between the ties and clean it up with a sharp knife.  I then use lots of T-pins to hold the joint and curve in place.  Soldering is tough because the ties melt pretty easily.  I really wish there was longer strips of flex track.. and I may try 3D printing some lengths of tie strips for the longer Code 40 rail.  Added bonus: 3D printed ties are also much more heat resistant and withstand soldering much better.

Oh did you notice the small structure in the previous picture?  That's my model of the enclosed water tank/station/section house on the WP&Y in Fraser BC.  This scene will be the flip side of the small layout.  This was just a 2nd iteration prototype, the final will be very slightly different.



 Whew.  Well there were a few other small projects but they can wait.  In the meantime please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or comments.  - Jesse




Saturday, June 4, 2022

Is It Summer Yet?

Many modelers seem to get much more into the hobby in winter, as they stay in the warmth and get their modeling jobs done uninterrupted by grass cutting, vacations, and the like.  I'm a bit of the opposite as I really detest hot, muggy weather (in southwest Ohio), and live in a condo where there's essentially no yard maintenance required, so find myself just as busy--if not more so--in the summertime.  And it looks like a busy summer is in store!  Here are some updates on various T-gauge projects.

T Scale Narrow Body Drive/GP38 Chassis:  This project has been on the back-burner with the iterative delays with etching and 3D printing cycle time.  The narrow-body motor+worm gear drive train has been proven (at least a few iterations), but the the bogies remain a stubborn issue.  My stubborn insistence on a decent-looking Blomberg truck and refusal to use the damned tension springs has lead to several different approaches.  I designed and tested a bogie that is all 3D printed plastic, with contact strips etched from brass, but they were not strong enough.  I'm currently testing a combination of metal sideframe + plastic 3D printed parts.   However, the new resin 3D printer (see below) will be useful in this effort as well--I have already revised the one-piece bogie that will accept "wiper" contact strips on the drawing board and it's far stronger than the previous version.  

M Scale White Pass & Yukon Layout:   Several projects are underway in this category, lead by the WP&Y test layout , which is starting to really take shape.  The layout is divided into two halves, separated by a scenic divider.  One side will be a representation of the first several miles of mainline track climbing along the Skagway River, the opposite I am thinking I will do a version of the Skagway Shops.  The mainline side has basic landforms in place, primarily the sheer cliffs the ROW was carved into around mile 7.  I'm using rubber rocks from Cripplebush Valley Models and I must say I really like them.  

Bridge 7B will span the small gully in front of the rock face.  While scratch-building from styrene is an option, I decided to 3D print this (Shapeways).  The bridge track has closer-spaced ties, so I cut the web off a section of ties, slid them closer, and glued some cut styrene ties into the gaps.  This will represent a section of bridge ties.  Here's the whole assembly, including the cast retaining wall with steel beam reinforcement, and abutments.  The base will come off prior to installation.

Since track laying is coming soon, I started thinking of practical issues, one of which is electrical pickup.  There are connectors made for the TGauge flex track sections that I have modified to have power feeders, by soldering wire through the back on to the rail joiner.
I'm also modifying the track by removing the cast-on nail holes, which I won't be needing since I intend to glue down the track;  This is really just for aesthetics and to let the ballast fill the gaps.

M Scale Narrow Gauge Coach: The WP&Y/C&S/D&RGW coach prototype is finished, and I'm quite happy with the result.  It uses a 3D printed core with etched brass sides.  The sides have 1/2 etch and the truss rods added, all of which turned out very nicely.  I have several other shells/sides on the workbench, with varying designs of sides.  I'm contemplating a Combine as well.  Here's the sequence from design to finished model:



One other note, take a look at those pine trees.  These are the best small pine trees I've found and are from an Ebay seller Sky and Landscape.  Remember this is 1:300 scale.  Highly recommended!

WP&Y In Person:  In early May I was able to take a "prototype reference visit" to Skagway, Alaska and was able to check out the WP&Y in person.  I highly recommend a visit to anyone:  The area is beautiful, the town is fun, and there are enough activities to keep you busy for days.  Visit the Red Onion and Skagway Brewing Co.!   Of course I rode the WP&Y train to the summit and return, and it was absolutely spectacular.  I was also lucky to catch one of the DL535Es still running, although they have been relegated to yard service now, with the arrival of several new NRE locomotives.  Hmm.. might have to design one of those new beasties!

 
Skagway locomotive shop buildings with a set of GE "Shovel Nose" Class 90 diesels and a pair of MLW DL535E diesels posed in front.  May 2022.

 
A pair of brand-new NRE E3000CC-DCs on a MOW stone train at Skagway Shops, May 2022. 

3D Printer In Da House:  After years of using Shapeways (and still intend to for some materials) I finally pulled the trigger and put down several $hundred on a resin SLA 3D printer.  I opted for the Phrozen Sonic Mini 8k, which offers 20um x 22um x 22um resolution.  I also purchased a UV curing and washing machine to expedite production.  To date, I have only done calibration prints and one test print (an E8A seen below) but so far am extremely happy with the results.  I set up the printer by my spray booth and run the exhaust fan to vent the fumes--which really aren't that bad anyway TBH.  Resolution exceeds Shapeways Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic material and is stronger, and it takes about an hour for a typical print (not counting post-processing.. clean, clean, clean!).  I look forward to more of that rapid turn around (SW is usually a couple weeks at best) and finer material.  I still have a bit of a learning curve to optimize my designs for resin SLA printing--mainly things like supports--but so far I am extremely happy.  I may even have to start adding rivets to some of these models!

 

Until next time, enjoy the summer and happy T-Gauge Modeling!  - Jesse