Finishing Shapeways 3D Printed Plastic Models

Happy New Year to my T-Scale Friends!

I wanted to start off with a helpful "how to do it" post;  Over the years (since 2012) I have developed and refined a finishing technique for what was once Shapeways "FUD" (Frosted Ultra Detail) or currently "Smoothest Fine Detail Plastic" material.  It's not an absolute--you may tweak as per your own preferences of course--but I find it works well.

1. Clean any oily/waxy residue off the shell.  For me, this is a three step process;  
1. First, I use a solvent to clean it;  I use Vallejo Airbrush Thinner because it's readily available and I use for my airbrush, and it's not very noxious;  NOTE: Some modelers use Bestine and soak the model;  You might also try other acrylic or wax solvents.   
2. After this, wash gently with a #6 brush or equivalent in warm soapy water, rinse, and allow to dry completely.  Inspect and repeat if necessary to remove any remaining waxy gunk.  
3. Finally I use a stiffer brush to gently whisk the surface after this is done.  Be wary around any thin parts.  
4. NOTE.  It's not absolutely necessary to do the solvent step, just warm water usually works fine and I did that for years.  The solvent cleans it just a little bit better.
2. Sand any rough areas or printing striations lightly with fine sandpaper or sanding sticks.  Wash/rinse, let dry. 
3. Apply 2 or 3 thin coats of Future acrylic floor wax (or other acrylic clear coat).   I apply with #2 brush and put it on thicker on any rough areas.  Inspect surface, sand and touch up again if  needed .  Remember the next layers of paint will also add thickness so try not to add too much .  For information on Future or it's equivalents:  http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
4. Prime with spray primer of your choice.  I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer rattle can.  Sand lightly again *if needed* and touch up.

   

   Primed, and a little extra sanding done.

   
   

5. Apply finish coat(s);  I have successfully used both acrylic brush-on, and rattle can spray-can lacquer.  

   

   That looks better! I actually put a liiiiitle bit too much clear sealer on this one but it's ok.

6. Decal and weather as needed/desired.
7. NOTE:  Always allow coats to dry thoroughly before adding more, especially if different base (ie. lacquer vs acrylic).
8. TIP:  Window glass can be represented with MicroScale Krystal Klear or using clear decal film.  I have used both successfully.
9. TIP:  I drill a 1mm hole in the base of solid models, or put a small piece of foam in hollow ones, then insert a toothpick into the model as a temporary handle.  This can then be put into a hole poked in a "stand" or your choice--I often use an old Shapeways box!